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Old 08-09-2021, 12:02 PM   #3221
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Sorry for the delay. - salmon were calling

Okay cabinet over kitchen sink removed.

There are two types of fasteners. #8 1.25” (4 total, yellow overhead and red into bathroom bulkhead) and 2.5” (2 total Blue). Green line indicates where I THINK the rib might be based on rivet lines alone. Is there a better way to determine this?

I’m thinking upsize all fasteners to #10 in same lengths. And then drilling new holes for both blue 2.5” back holes and 1.25” yellow overhead. Also thinking of relocating Yellow hole to match up with “I THINK” rib marked in green.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Nick
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Old 08-09-2021, 02:33 PM   #3222
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Hey Nick Here is a post re a stripped screw...can't remember if I posted the link to the 20 footers...
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f45...ml#post2426066

Seems I used a #12 and graduated from fine to coarse thread. Of course my situation was a fairly large hole so the #12 was by default.

Can't seem to find the original riv-nut suggestion in the above thread, but riv-nuts may be worth it, especially if you're having trouble finding the bulkhead rib or any header.

If you have a stud finder...a very long shot with the metal skin but may show denser material behind.


Good luck.


b








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Old 09-05-2021, 08:26 PM   #3223
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I've been so focused with the floor repair under the bed ( JC actually replaced from the refer forward) that i had not noticed that my sink cabinet was coming loose too. Hmmm, why does the cab door rub against the shower bulkhead when it swings up? Duh.

All seem secure except the one in the upper left corner. I tried a bigger coarse self tapping that i had pre-drilled a little to the right of the oem screw..hoping to a catch a rib. It firmed up but i think only against the bracket and wasn't long enough. This was at the end of the day just before departing to storage so i didn't get any pics or s real good look and eval. Wonderful, heading to CA in a couple of weeks. Before i take the cab out, i think I'll drop by the local fastenal outlet for some ideas...riv-nuts or = maybe.

Sure wish i had taken the time fir a factory tour. I'6 love to have a better understanding of the rib layout & cavity thickness

Nick, how did you finally re-secure yours? Were you successful in locating the ribs...along the rivet trail?

BTW, what is the ele quick connection in the upper right corner. Kinda looks like a fuse. We have the under cab light, but not aware of other wiring.

Any experience appreciated.
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Old 09-06-2021, 07:13 AM   #3224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CruizinDux View Post
I've been so focused with the floor repair under the bed ( JC actually replaced from the refer forward).

Good morning. Could you provide more detail about this floor repair? Perhaps pictures showing where JC repaired with descriptions of what they were repairing? I apologize if I missed a post about this earlier in the thread, I do try to read them all. Thank you.
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Old 09-06-2021, 09:39 AM   #3225
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First of all - My over sink kitchen cabinet was hitting the shower bulkhead as it opened before the repair too! That might be the early indicator that trouble is lurking. Unfortunately my repair didn’t fully resolve that concern (oops) but its better.

I replace all the screws even the good ones from #8 to #10 SS. Used the old factory holes and everything grabbed good with no additional drilling in those holes. then I added three additional screws, all #10 SS. One overhead in the cabinet about 3” inboard from existing and similarly places screwed along the after part of the cabinet spaced from the OEM screws.

I’m not sure I ever found a rib (decided that would be an exploratory drilling nightmare). But I did sink those fasteners inline with the visual rivet line. Then at least the fasteners were going through two layers of skin. Figured that was the best I could do with my limited skills. I do wish I had used an IR imager to try an locate the cold ribs - but the idea came too late.

In summary - replace all #8 with #10 SS of similar lengths and then add three extras in the rivet lines of the skin.

Nick
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Old 09-06-2021, 09:43 AM   #3226
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Also- Never try and repair the Toilet Ball, as I a few posts back, using abrasives to correct gouging in the ball- the thing held for about three, 1 week long trips and now the bowl doesn’t hold water anymore - no matter how much bowl conditioner I toss at it! Just replace the whole stack - I knew it was a shortcut and that shortcut is going to take a long time to fix again.
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Old 09-06-2021, 11:52 AM   #3227
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rammonte View Post
Good morning. Could you provide more detail about this floor repair? Perhaps pictures showing where JC repaired with descriptions of what they were repairing? I apologize if I missed a post about this earlier in the thread, I do try to read them all. Thank you.

Rammonte, I'll follow up soon with this.
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Old 09-06-2021, 11:54 AM   #3228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaPepper View Post
First of all - My over sink kitchen cabinet was hitting the shower bulkhead as it opened before the repair too! That might be the early indicator that trouble is lurking. Unfortunately my repair didn’t fully resolve that concern (oops) but its better.

I replace all the screws even the good ones from #8 to #10 SS. Used the old factory holes and everything grabbed good with no additional drilling in those holes. then I added three additional screws, all #10 SS. One overhead in the cabinet about 3” inboard from existing and similarly places screwed along the after part of the cabinet spaced from the OEM screws.

I’m not sure I ever found a rib (decided that would be an exploratory drilling nightmare). But I did sink those fasteners inline with the visual rivet line. Then at least the fasteners were going through two layers of skin. Figured that was the best I could do with my limited skills. I do wish I had used an IR imager to try an locate the cold ribs - but the idea came too late.

In summary - replace all #8 with #10 SS of similar lengths and then add three extras in the rivet lines of the skin.

Nick

Nick, excellent feedback. Thanks!
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Old 09-06-2021, 02:17 PM   #3229
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Rammonte, Basically we developed a soft spot under the closet/bed corner during a 3 mo trip to the Keys. Based on no other indicators, I attributed it to a cracked F-Vent flange above the bed…noticed moisture and after removing the inside trim, saw drops of water on the somewhat rusted screws. Replaced both F-Vents as actually both were cracked, and also had a complete dealer peel/seal (Sikaflex 221) in 2019 on the roof and thought I was good. JC confirmed still good

After a big storm this last winter, I thought I’d check things out and saw some moisture under the front window. After exploring I found a failed screw in the rock guard bracket.
https://www.airforums.com/forums/f45...ml#post2426066
I repaired that and thought I was good (which JC confirmed). No other indicators, all appeared dry. Made an apt. at JC for the 2-3 SF of floor repair. Drove to JC early Aug and by the 10 a.m. they had pulled the bed, closet and fwd dinette & rolled back the vinyl. The soft spot was in fact rotten but the larger area was somewhat wet. Seems the F-Vent flange and the rock guard bracket weren’t the only issues. Totally caught off guard.

JC~ was great. Basically on the N/S axis they removed/replaced subfloor from the front window back to about the edge of the refer/coat rack (had to pull the refer). On the L/R axis from the CS wall to just in-board of the WH. Seems there is a N/S beam there and the decking under the WH was fine. There was a minor leak (but no rot) from the WH at a shark bite repair of their prior repair by the EUG dealer. He said never consider these long term plumbing connections.

They initially suspected the window (glass edge and flange edge) and right off the bat, he had sealed (AdSeal) all the windows, flashing, eyebrows, etc. around the TT but after some water tests, determined that it was one or all of: the fwd two CS marker/running lights or the two ZipDee brackets. After sealing them, he was able to stop the intrusion. He gave the entire TT a through AdSeal.
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Old 09-09-2021, 06:45 PM   #3230
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sink overhead cab

I brought some 1X3 bracing and some clamps thinking I could slide them in opposite directions to support the corner. #$%^ both were too long, Meant to bring a saw. However lucked out, only 1/4" too long. Pushed one in...perfect. Cab flush to the roof.

Well seems I bought all my tools but forgot the camera. I didn't really want/need to remove the cabinet since PapaPepper did such a great visual. (Thanks!)

I first traded out the upper left ledge screw with a #10 that didn't hold. Added one to the right sort of in the rivet line...still no hold. Put one right of the rivet line. Hmmm. I finally realized that the roof slope was working against me and the screws tip would slip/slide to the rear per the interior skin slope. It actually took quite an effort due to the shape of the bracket to get the screw to go in perpendicular to the skin. Might be overkill but I put a series of 1.5" x 10's in the first 3 inches from the left corner. I had 12's n the bag but the 10's seem to work.

I removed the 2.5" x 8 screw (bent) that is in the lower vertical brace and replaced it with a 2.5" x 12 and followed with 2 (one on each side) including one just barely to the right of the rivet line hoping to catch two layers. Note I pre-drilled and added a slight slope so they would pull the cab in and up. Not sure but I think I caught a rib on the one to the left of the OEM.

I slipped the two 1X braces under my closet drawer, but hopefully will not need them on the upcoming trip to CA.

If this doesn't hold, I have decided to fab some form of stock (1/8th" X 2" x by width of cabinet, that I can attached horizontally immediately under the upper horizontal bracket which is carrying all the weight on the left upper corner. Not sure how I'll attach , but riv-nuts and simple molly's of some sort all along the sock come to mind.

I'll try to post some pics.

meanwhile... new Barker 3500 jack and 8.5" memory foam bed from the AS store. Oh, almost forgot a new subfloor under the bed and dinette...ca-ching! I'll try to post to the appropriate thread.
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Old 09-12-2021, 02:36 PM   #3231
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No kidding. Looking for some guidance on rib/stud location, totally forgot about this Thanks A W Warn from another recent thread.


Couldn't locate it at https://www.airstream.com/owners/man..._manuals=parts Note below is for a 2014 FC only (but likely similar or equal for other FC vintages)


...but here is my downloaded version. page 16 & 17 or I-9 & I10


not perfect better than going blind.
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File Type: pdf 0 Parts Book 2014FC20.pdf (6.50 MB, 3 views)
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Old 09-14-2021, 05:53 PM   #3232
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Originally Posted by alreardon View Post
On your trip you passed two of my favorite VA state campgrounds Kiptopeke and First Landing.

Next time stop and enjoy the area! Especially Norfolk.

Watched the arrival of the Eisenhower from VA Beach.


Really nice setup.
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