Winter water

[lukeysh714]

Hi folks. Question about water connections in winter. We've been full time for 4 years. Until we got our 2017 Classic we lived in 5th wheels. They all had heated compartments for water connections. We use an electric heated water hose also. So what do folks do for freeze protection inside the small compartment in the classics where water connection and black tank flush are?

[james.mileur]

What worked for me on my 17 Classic was making my own heated hose and leaving 3' of heat strip on the male end to wrap around those parts.

If you look inside, you will see a side panel inside with 3 screws? Take off, and carefully lay in your favorite insulation all around the regulator, inlet water tube, etc. Then stuff gray closed cell foam in the forward bottom edge of that box just behind the back wheel, to keep road water splash out of the box. That's the only place mine ever froze up and not completely, but down to a slow drip overnight in the teens.

[lukeysh714]

Thanks, where exactly did you put the closed cell foam. I have a pretty good sized gap that the door partially covers when closed. My arm is a little short to reach it.

[james.mileur]

Originally Posted by lukeysh714

Thanks, where exactly did you put the closed cell foam. I have a pretty good sized gap that the door partially covers when closed. My arm is a little short to reach it.

The gap I filled with closed cell foam is directly behind the rear tire. When you remove the inner panel and crane your head just right or stick your smarty-pants phone in there for a selfie, you'll see the city water regulator, the black tank flush line, and on mine, a big gap of daylight leading to the rear tire.

Pink insulation laid in for the tubing and regulator, closed cell to minimize tire splash to keep the pink dry. Lay in well, but don't stuff.

Cheers,

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by lukeysh714

Hi folks. Question about water connections in winter. We've been full time for 4 years. Until we got our 2017 Classic we lived in 5th wheels. They all had heated compartments for water connections. We use an electric heated water hose also. So what do folks do for freeze protection inside the small compartment in the classics where water connection and black tank flush are?

My approach has always been to use the tank and fill it when the weather is warm.

The 2010 classic I have has a hole in the bottom of the little compartment where the water (and black tank flush) connection is, so that it is possible to fully close the compartment door while the hose is connected. This would provide a degree of protection from freezing. Water conducts heat well, and with a heated hose there is as a practical matter some protection beyond the end of the hose.

[lukeysh714]

Hey James, have you checked the insulation you put behind the panel after driving in the rain. I did what you said, even used a piece of gorilla tape on the gap outside. After a trip in heavy rain, I looked behind the panel and most of the pink insulation as wet and nasty. Road water getting in the nooks and crannies.

[james.mileur]

Going back to check? Hmm, should I guess. Thx.

[james.mileur]

Originally Posted by lukeysh714

Road water getting in the nooks and crannies.

Funny, same problem we had on nuke subs [emoji12]

[dznf0g]

I am not sure if newer classics are the same but:

1) There is a brass one-way check valve in the water line (under the bath sink and on the floor in front of the water heater).
2) This valve is there to isolate the outside bib and the city water hookup from the rest of the plumbing and pump/tank system.
3) there is a bypass valve around this brass check valve which enables you to use tank water at the bib in the warm months, when the valve is open.

Here is the winter prep:

1) while thoroughly blowing out the entire system in winter prep, be sure you open the bib and completely exhaust all water. The air fitting is at the city water inlet.
2) with the air flowing, close the bypass valve at the brass check valve.
3) release the air pressure. The brass check valve will close and prevent any on board fresh water from entering the lines upstream (now downstream while using tank water and pump) from the check valve (and the now closed bypass valve).
4) the outside compartment lines, bib and city water pressure regulator and lines are now devoid of any water and filled only with air.
5) leave hose bib open to prevent any drips from freezing and damaging it. Also, an open bib will allow for you to ensure there is no slow leak from the bypass and brass check valves while using pump and tank water.

[Mike Steele]

While winter camping in my ‘94 Excella Classic I always connect to 110v so I can run the furnace. I simply place a trouble light with a 60 watt incandescent bulb in the water connection compartment. This has worked well to zero degrees. I

[uncle_bob]

Hi

A bit off topic, but vaguely related .....

If you happen to be *in* a Classic in cold weather, the windows get a bit damp. The water runs down the window and puddles in the track at the bottom of the window. You can build up a pretty good pool fairly quickly. I have empirical data on this . Popping open the window and bailing it out with a rag is about the only practical way to take care of the issue. If the pool just sits and the trailer cools down .... you have a block of ice pushing the window around. That's probably not a good thing

Bob

[james.mileur]

Uncle bob, you are a lifelong learner, still my hero.

When we cut the 1/4 inch silver bubble insulation for the windows, leaving no air gaps between it and the windows was key to avoid the convection dehumidification and slow flooding. [emoji12]