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kendrick.l.j · 02-10-2017, 06:17 PM

Capt - you seem to be ahead of me on the learning curve. Mine is showing the same with other information that I don't understand yet. Sorry I am not helpful but I will be following to learn.

paiceman · 02-11-2017, 04:55 AM

Yep 5amp. Mine had always read this. I figure it's pulling from the 12v system at that rate. Plus the system works fine, heat and hot water so as of now not concerned.

Bud

james.mileur · 02-14-2017, 07:45 PM

Please see post for system picture and drawings, (Sep 2016 build)

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f540...ml#post1911224

and prior posts back to at least #54 before allowing any dealer to backfit a mixing valve into your ALDE system. You can see even a a factory install is convaluted and not obvious to a casual observer what valve is for fill, bypass flow, winterizing, draining, etc.

If a Dealer is going to backfit the system, ask them to show you the current configuration (paper drawing) and how they will change it (also drawn out). Even a bit of a plan is ususally more successful and easier to change midstream then making it up as you go. You paid a lot of money; expect a good product and service.

OSIN · 02-19-2017, 07:53 PM

Riffgod1000, Just in case. When you add the Glycol you need to turn off the circulating pump before bleeding the air. The easiest place to bleed is on the towel bar. Once you can determine if all the air is out and the glycol level is good, you should be OK...at least in my case that's what I needed to do

riffgod1000 · 02-20-2017, 12:28 PM

Thanks, good to know!

james.mileur · 03-04-2017, 08:40 PM

If you have a sudden unusual drop in hot water, try cycling the shower water handle off and on; seems like the Mixing valve doesn't always track smoothly to maintain the outlet temp.

paiceman · 03-05-2017, 12:00 PM

I simply removed the anti-scald stop in the Kohler shower handle and changed the mixing valve to max. For two months now, taking showers one after the other we have endless hot water-HOT.

james.mileur · 03-06-2017, 11:45 AM

Thanks, Bud, and I say again, you have the best ALDE out there. I did the anti-scald valve and reset the mixing valve also, but when sanitary water starts at 165 and cold water mixing in at 42, by the end of my shower, sanitary out is close to 110, but cool at the shower head, only the mixing valve can do that. I set my mixing valve so that the HW faucets deliver "hot to touch" with no cold mixing at the faucet required.

Have you had anymore leakage out of your ALDE Safety Valve? Mine had been dripping, but just took a quick pop to flush and reset it. We never heard back from OSIN if his new 50# Safety Valve from JC was good enough to hold back city water through the 60# regulator or the 55# pump outlet without leaking. That solution smelt full of bilge water, IMHO. And if its true, every Classic needs a new water pump (or setting) and city regulator.

69SoulShine · 03-07-2017, 01:45 AM

First night in our new 2017 Classic 30 and our Alde sys is bubbling in the reservoir tank , loud. Also no hot water to speak of. Any thoughts of what might fix it?

james.mileur · 03-07-2017, 04:53 AM

This entire thread and another, 2017 Classic Hot Water Mixing Valve, is a great place to start your quest for knowledge.

Bubbling or gurgling? The tank is near the beginning of the loop for pumped heating water for the trailer. At the correct fill level, mine still gurgles when pump is running, but only when heat water is low temp (expansion/contraction). If your towel bar is cool to touch, vent the air from the fitting on the top right. You will probably need glycol top off, like most of us, after delivery, and even after a couple trips, until all the air is vented out of the loop. Read the Alde Manual, and buy propylene glycol from AS or dealer, not ethylene glycol, or even get your dealer to top off and vent.

Camping in cold or warm area?

Sanitary hot water is heated by the trailer heating water. Pop the cover off the non-drawer dinette seat and turn the black mixing valve to Max. Read the threads to reset the Mixing valve if still not hot enough. Welcome to the Alde Beta Team.

paiceman · 03-07-2017, 05:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by james.mileur

Thanks, Bud, and I say again, you have the best ALDE out there. I did the anti-scald valve and reset the mixing valve also, but when sanitary water starts at 165 and cold water mixing in at 42, by the end of my shower, sanitary out is close to 110, but cool at the shower head, only the mixing valve can do that. I set my mixing valve so that the HW faucets deliver "hot to touch" with no cold mixing at the faucet required.

Have you had anymore leakage out of your ALDE Safety Valve? Mine had been dripping, but just took a quick pop to flush and reset it. We never heard back from OSIN if his new 50# Safety Valve from JC was good enough to hold back city water through the 60# regulator or the 55# pump outlet without leaking. That solution smelt full of bilge water, IMHO. And if its true, every Classic needs a new water pump (or setting) and city regulator.

I really don't think my Alde is different from any other working system. When adjusting the Alde mixing valve I adjusted it as far as I could using the direction sheet. I took the anti-scald g out of the Kohler facet. As I've reported prior, our water if the Kohler is turned to as hot as possible we can not touch the water, it's that hot. Taking the second shower I gradually need to turn from about 9:00 to about 10:00 to keep water hot, but so far we never run out. I did a total water dump eight days ago, not only from the Alde, but entire water system, instead of just Alde. This seems to have stopped any leakage from the Alde. I've not had any leakage, so my thoughts are simply dumping the Alde does not completely empty the tank and therefore does not allow the air pocket to fully develop when water is turned back on. We don't use much if any hot water after showers so I now turn the system off until dinner, then leave it on overnight so we have morning hot water. Not sure if there is a difference but where we are now we pay monthly and electric, do this saved a few bucks as well.

Bud

paiceman · 03-07-2017, 05:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by james.mileur

Thanks, Bud, and I say again, you have the best ALDE out there. I did the anti-scald valve and reset the mixing valve also, but when sanitary water starts at 165 and cold water mixing in at 42, by the end of my shower, sanitary out is close to 110, but cool at the shower head, only the mixing valve can do that. I set my mixing valve so that the HW faucets deliver "hot to touch" with no cold mixing at the faucet required.

Have you had anymore leakage out of your ALDE Safety Valve? Mine had been dripping, but just took a quick pop to flush and reset it. We never heard back from OSIN if his new 50# Safety Valve from JC was good enough to hold back city water through the 60# regulator or the 55# pump outlet without leaking. That solution smelt full of bilge water, IMHO. And if its true, every Classic needs a new water pump (or setting) and city regulator.

I neglected to mention I also removed my outside 50# water pressure valve and depend on the Airstream internal valve and as mentioned since a total water dump still no pressure relief dumping. I did find in hot weather I should do this more often

mojoe7009 · 03-07-2017, 05:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by james.mileur

This entire thread and another, 2017 Classic Hot Water Mixing Valve, is a great place to start your quest for knowledge.

Bubbling or gurgling? The tank is near the beginning of the loop for pumped heating water for the trailer. At the correct fill level, mine still gurgles when pump is running, but only when heat water is low temp (expansion/contraction). If your towel bar is cool to touch, vent the air from the fitting on the top right. You will probably need glycol top off, like most of us, after delivery, and even after a couple trips, until all the air is vented out of the loop. Read the Alde Manual, and buy propylene glycol from AS or dealer, not ethylene glycol, or even get your dealer to top off and vent.

Camping in cold or warm area?

Sanitary hot water is heated by the trailer heating water. Pop the cover off the non-drawer dinette seat and turn the black mixing valve to Max. Read the threads to reset the Mixing valve if still not hot enough. Welcome to the Alde Beta Team.

Paiceman posted a great diagram of where all the bleed valves are located throughout the trailer for the Alde system. I found, as I believe he did, bleeding the air from just the towel bar did not fully get all the air out. Using his diagram, I bleed each valve probably 4 different times before all the air was out. When I first just did it at just the towel bar, I could still go to each of the other valves and bleed air out, like I said, four rounds of it. Since the Alde fluid from the tank replaces the air volume I then needed to add 2 1/2 bottles of glycol back to the tank to get back to the proper level and restore my heat. Oh, and mine still gurgles a bit but I have great heat and the fluid level has not dropped at all.
My only issue now is still extremely limited hot water supply. Made all the adjustments Paiceman suggested and still only get about 2 minutes of hot water in the shower. Dealer appointment March 21st thanks to Jon at Airstream. Hopefully that will be the end of it and we can finally start to fully enjoy our trailer.

paiceman · 03-07-2017, 05:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by james.mileur

This entire thread and another, 2017 Classic Hot Water Mixing Valve, is a great place to start your quest for knowledge.

Bubbling or gurgling? The tank is near the beginning of the loop for pumped heating water for the trailer. At the correct fill level, mine still gurgles when pump is running, but only when heat water is low temp (expansion/contraction). If your towel bar is cool to touch, vent the air from the fitting on the top right. You will probably need glycol top off, like most of us, after delivery, and even after a couple trips, until all the air is vented out of the loop. Read the Alde Manual, and buy propylene glycol from AS or dealer, not ethylene glycol, or even get your dealer to top off and vent.

Camping in cold or warm area?

Sanitary hot water is heated by the trailer heating water. Pop the cover off the non-drawer dinette seat and turn the black mixing valve to Max. Read the threads to reset the Mixing valve if still not hot enough. Welcome to the Alde Beta Team.

Ha, last comment is in my opinion on point. But enjoying the "adventure".

paiceman · 03-07-2017, 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by james.mileur

Please see post for system picture and drawings, (Sep 2016 build)

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f540...ml#post1911224

and prior posts back to at least #54 before allowing any dealer to backfit a mixing valve into your ALDE system. You can see even a a factory install is convaluted and not obvious to a casual observer what valve is for fill, bypass flow, winterizing, draining, etc.

If a Dealer is going to backfit the system, ask them to show you the current configuration (paper drawing) and how they will change it (also drawn out). Even a bit of a plan is ususally more successful and easier to change midstream then making it up as you go. You paid a lot of money; expect a good product and service.

I would not let a dealer touch my Alde system. I simply don't think they know the system as they have not seen any or if they have set it up incorrectly. If mine goes and I can't fix it we are going to JC.

mojoe7009 · 03-07-2017, 06:13 AM

I wish I had the time to make the run to JC right now. I am going to a different dealer than my selling dealer thanks to an arrangement with Jon at Airstream. He feels confident this dealer can remedy my issue. He has stated the technical team at JC will be working directly, via phone of course, with the dealer to make the necessary repairs. He is pre-shipping any parts he believes might be necessary so there is no delay in the process. Time wise this is my only option at the moment.
I have much appreciated your support and advice throughout this ordeal.

paiceman · 03-07-2017, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mojoe7009

I wish I had the time to make the run to JC right now. I am going to a different dealer than my selling dealer thanks to an arrangement with Jon at Airstream. He feels confident this dealer can remedy my issue. He has stated the technical team at JC will be working directly, via phone of course, with the dealer to make the necessary repairs. He is pre-shipping any parts he believes might be necessary so there is no delay in the process. Time wise this is my only option at the moment.
I have much appreciated your support and advice throughout this ordeal.

Mojoe, the plan you've got sounds good. I personally have a lot of faith and confidence in the CS and technicians at JC. If they said they would support the dealer, I'd have confidence they will. Good luck with the fixes, let us know.

Bud

james.mileur · 03-07-2017, 07:00 AM

Hey mojoe, try turning on any hot water faucet somewhere in the trailer and cycling the mixing valve from max to min and back to max. I did that early on to perhaps flush out any plastic debris from construction. There is just no other known reason I can think of for your hot water to run out so fast and abruptly. My money is on a sticky mixing valve.

mojoe7009 · 03-07-2017, 09:23 AM

Probably so or more severe. Dealer jacked up the install of the mixing valve and may have literally broken the inner workings of the valve. Laurie had a similar issue and was able to replace the mixing valve with a new one herself. Solved her hot water issue. I tried to replace mine with one Airstream sent me. Unfortunately the dealer changed all the fittings on the valve to sizes not prescribed by Airstream so mine is not an easy swap out...of course. So off to a new dealer I go to put a new valve in correctly (I hope).

kendrick.l.j · 03-07-2017, 10:51 AM

Hi all. Sorry I have not been in the forum for a couple of days so I didn't see the latest post until now. Yes, I had all the same issues with fluid levels, air bubbles and no hot water. Learned how to replace Alde fluid and still check it regularly. Not hard. Replaced mixing valve thanks to Jon at AS. Problem solved without having to find a dealer. Also, not a hard problem to fix. I have absolutely no problems to report and I am living in the AS full time since December 9.
All former problems have been throughly discussed in the All About Alde and Mixing Valve threads and I can't think of a thing to contribute.