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11-28-2020, 09:24 PM
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#1
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3 Rivet Member 
2021 33FB Classic
Cumming
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 166
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Built In Winterization Kit
I was reading the 2021 Classic 33 Owners Manual & the Parts Book - I saw in both that there is a “Built In Winterization Kit” as Standard equipment.
Can anyone tell me what that is?
My AS came off the line Nov 5th (or so they say) and is still in Ohio waiting for a refrigerator part so I haven’t taken delivery yet.
Just curious what that kit is.
Thanks.
__________________
IG: @AnnaBelletheAirstream
2021 Classic 33 FB
2019 RAM 2500 Limited (6.7 Cummins Turbo Diesel)
WBCCI# 8026
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11-29-2020, 06:56 AM
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#2
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3 Rivet Member 
2021 25' International
Winder
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 123
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Chas,
It’s the bypass kit installed on the water pump. It has a pre installed tube on the water pump with a valve to switch between normal operation and winterize mode. When in winterize you use the tube to suck antifreeze from a jug through the pump and into the water lines. Not sure about your water heater on your Classic but if it’s tankless like ours there is no bypass on the WH. You still will have to use an air compressor and pump air through the system to purge the water out even if you still decide to pump antifreeze. Plus add antifreeze to the p traps and toilet. Did mine yesterday.
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11-29-2020, 07:16 AM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member 
2021 33FB Classic
Cumming
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bcc75
Chas,
It’s the bypass kit installed on the water pump. Plus add antifreeze to the p traps and toilet. Did mine yesterday.
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Thanks Brian. I bought the air adapter plug so I can do the air blow out. I doubt I’ll put antifreeze in the lines since I’m storing indoors. Be careful in toilet, I did that on my old 5th wheel and it ate up the seal.
Still no word on part or ETA on delivery. Another week gone by. It’s craziness!!! I don’t mind the delay, I get that - it’s the lack of communication and no answers that is frustrating.
No response from my LinkedIn messages.
__________________
IG: @AnnaBelletheAirstream
2021 Classic 33 FB
2019 RAM 2500 Limited (6.7 Cummins Turbo Diesel)
WBCCI# 8026
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11-29-2020, 07:20 AM
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#4
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Rivet Master 

2017 22' Sport
NCR
, Ontario
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 2,364
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the best method is blow out
then just put food safe antifreeze in the traps and toilet bowl
very simple and easy
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11-29-2020, 07:53 AM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member 
2021 25' International
Winder
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AnnaBelle33
Thanks Brian. I bought the air adapter plug so I can do the air blow out. I doubt I’ll put antifreeze in the lines since I’m storing indoors. Be careful in toilet, I did that on my old 5th wheel and it ate up the seal.
Still no word on part or ETA on delivery. Another week gone by. It’s craziness!!! I don’t mind the delay, I get that - it’s the lack of communication and no answers that is frustrating.
No response from my LinkedIn messages.
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Silicone spray on the toilet bowl seal will work also. It’s also important to use a non alcohol based antifreeze as to not eat up the seals. You do have to keep that toilet seal moist somehow. I didn’t pump antifreeze either. Only thing I worry about is getting all of the water out of the water pump itself. I turned on the pump and let the air blow through it and it did spit out some water in the kitchen sink. Just hope I got it all.
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11-29-2020, 09:18 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master 
2018 25' International
Slidell
, Louisiana
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 3,036
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Both common food grade antifreezes are alcohol based. One is ethanol (grain alcohol) and easily permeates many plastics and seals. The other is is propylene glycol which is a larger molecule and does not permeate so readily. So use the glycol to reduce seal damage and if you put it in the fresh system especially to reduce poor tasting water afterwards, since the ethanol will permeate back into the fresh water when in use and bring off flavors with it.
__________________
Brian
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11-29-2020, 09:43 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master 

2012 25' FB International
Trent Woods
, North Carolina
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 3,039
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bcc75
Silicone spray on the toilet bowl seal will work also. It’s also important to use a non alcohol based antifreeze as to not eat up the seals. You do have to keep that toilet seal moist somehow. I didn’t pump antifreeze either. Only thing I worry about is getting all of the water out of the water pump itself. I turned on the pump and let the air blow through it and it did spit out some water in the kitchen sink. Just hope I got it all.
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A few years back, I found out the hard way that running the pump and blowing air was inadequate to get all of the water out of the inlet strainer. In the Spring, I had a leak, traced to the strainer, and it had apparently frozen and cracked. Ever since then I always pump enough pink to fill the strainer and the water pump. I pour pink into the drain traps. I blow out everything else.
Larry
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11-29-2020, 11:10 AM
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#8
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3 Rivet Member 
2020 30' Classic
Blue Ridge
, Georgia
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 144
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bcc75
Chas,
It’s the bypass kit installed on the water pump. It has a pre installed tube on the water pump with a valve to switch between normal operation and winterize mode. When in winterize you use the tube to suck antifreeze from a jug through the pump and into the water lines. Not sure about your water heater on your Classic but if it’s tankless like ours there is no bypass on the WH. You still will have to use an air compressor and pump air through the system to purge the water out even if you still decide to pump antifreeze. Plus add antifreeze to the p traps and toilet. Did mine yesterday.
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Your Classic most likely has the Alde heating system which works great for heat and hot water. You will need to study the manual carefully and learn which valves are turned which way to winterize with blowing out the water versus flooding the system with RV antifreeze. I have a 2020 30' Classic and live in Blue Ridge. For the last two winters I've blown out the water lines and added antifreeze to the p traps. Some people do both, blow out the lines and then pump antifreeze thru the lines. The manual has instructions for doing both what ever you choose.
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11-29-2020, 11:20 AM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member 
2021 33FB Classic
Cumming
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 166
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gleverett
Your Classic most likely has the Alde heating system which works great for heat and hot water. You will need to study the manual carefully and learn which valves are turned which way to winterize with blowing out the water versus flooding the system with RV antifreeze. I have a 2020 30' Classic and live in Blue Ridge. For the last two winters I've blown out the water lines and added antifreeze to the p traps. Some people do both, blow out the lines and then pump antifreeze thru the lines. The manual has instructions for doing both what ever you choose.
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Thanks. Appreciate it. I’ve had other travel trailers & 5th wheels - just didn’t know what the kit was in the AS.
Looking forward to meeting everyone at Top of Georgia this Spring.
__________________
IG: @AnnaBelletheAirstream
2021 Classic 33 FB
2019 RAM 2500 Limited (6.7 Cummins Turbo Diesel)
WBCCI# 8026
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11-29-2020, 12:22 PM
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#10
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3 Rivet Member 
2021 25' International
Winder
, Georgia
Join Date: Sep 2020
Posts: 123
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsbrodsky
A few years back, I found out the hard way that running the pump and blowing air was inadequate to get all of the water out of the inlet strainer. In the Spring, I had a leak, traced to the strainer, and it had apparently frozen and cracked. Ever since then I always pump enough pink to fill the strainer and the water pump. I pour pink into the drain traps. I blow out everything else.
Larry
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Thanks for this advice. Was thinking of doing just that. That way the pump is protected and I don’t have so much pink stuff to flush out.
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11-29-2020, 01:00 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master 
2006 23' Safari SE
Lexington
, Kentucky
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,034
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bcc75
Silicone spray on the toilet bowl seal will work also. It’s also important to use a non alcohol based antifreeze as to not eat up the seals. You do have to keep that toilet seal moist somehow. I didn’t pump antifreeze either. Only thing I worry about is getting all of the water out of the water pump itself. I turned on the pump and let the air blow through it and it did spit out some water in the kitchen sink. Just hope I got it all.
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I use Oatey Plumber's silicone, safe for all rubber seals. Available at Lowe's. The RV antifreeze warped my toilet seal one year after I poured antifreeze in the bowl. Now I use only the silicone. If you don't use Oatey silicone be sure to read the label to ensure it's safe for rubber.
__________________
-Rich
Rich & Yvonne
2006 Safari SE -Dora-
2004 4Runner SE
Most of us don't know exactly what we want, but we're pretty sure we don't have it. -Alfred E. Neuman
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11-29-2020, 01:47 PM
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#12
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CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawus"

2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula
, Milky Way
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 16,539
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^
We started with RV AF, toilet seal leak after 3 Seasons, went to olive oil, then Crisco oil, sillycone dielectric for the last seven yrs.
I blow lines with the pump running SFSG.
Bob
🇺🇸
__________________
"Any nation that can survive what we have lately in the way of government, is on the high road to permanent glory."
Molly Ivins
“Change is the new normal, if nothing changes, nothing is normal, everything changes, everything is normal.”
RLC
Tahawus
🌤
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11-30-2020, 06:16 AM
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#13
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1 Rivet Member 
2019 Interstate Nineteen
SARASOTA
, Florida
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 12
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I have a 2020 AS Interstate 19 with Truma Combi Plus water/furnace heater unit and Flo-jet pump. What PSI did you use in blowing the lines. I will drain all water from tanks and pour pink stuff in traps and macerator system. Any other tips or video reference would be helpful. Climate is mild by gets into 20,s here in Franklin, Tn. I plan to keep pink stuff in bowl also. Thanks
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