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Old 03-21-2021, 08:43 PM   #1
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A few electrical problems

Last month, we took delivery of a '21 Classic 33. I schlepped up to NJ to pick it up and boondocked in Cracker Barrel parking lots back to Houston. Other than an initial problem with the Alde hot water system (the techs at Colonial knew exactly what to do to give me infinite hot water; that system now works great), everything seemed to be working correctly.

For Spring Break, we did the inaugural trip in great style: 6 nights at Disney Fort Wilderness (what a great camp ground....perhaps I'll comment on that one in a different thread).

Over the last week, I have discovered 2 electrical gremlins:

1. While loading the trailer (not plugged in to any 120V outlet), I got a few "low voltage" alarms. Not wanting to subject my new batteries to low voltages, I plugged in the trailer. Problem solved--or so I thoughts. When unloading this evening, I got the same alarm. On a hunch, I unplugged the umbilical from my tow vehicle. I had zero voltage in my trailer, so nothing would run. It was still daylight, and I read 13.3 V on the solar charge display. A DVM showed I had 12.5V across my batteries. Where do I begin to look for this electrical problem?

2. During my "trial" night in the Colonial parking lot, I blew a fuse while operating the foot elevator on the couch. A tech replaced the fuse and everything worked again. A few nights ago, the couch got stuck in the up position. That same fuse was blown, so I changed it and was able to return the seat to normal. The blown fuse is in Position 9 (10 Amp). According to the key, Position 9 should be for Alde system and Position 1 (25 Amp) is for the Sofa Motor. Am I misreading this, or is my fuse panel mislabeled? Does the sofa motor really need a 25A fuse, causing the existing 10A to frequently blow? Here's a pic of my panel:


All the local RV repair shops are backed up, so I'd rather diagnose and/or repair this myself if possible. What are your thoughts on my issues?

Thanks,
Jayson
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Old 03-22-2021, 09:59 AM   #2
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Well....one of the 2 problems is solved--or at least I've resolved the symptoms. The 50A battery terminal fuse blew. Replacing it makes the trailer electrics work again. I wish I knew why it decided to give up the ghost....

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Old 03-22-2021, 10:25 AM   #3
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A quick troubleshooting method:
Remove fuse 9 and see if Alde shows power available and if the couch motor works. Reinstall 9 and remove 1, check Alde and couch again.
I suspect the labels are standard for a given trailer model and that if they are switched then it is more likely mis-wired to the fuse terminals. That should be easy to correct.
However, it would be best to get confirmation from JC in Ohio. If a device is connected to a higher amp fuse than required and a fault occurs then it will not be properly protected.
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Old 03-22-2021, 10:29 AM   #4
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Additionally, if that 50A fuse goes a second time, I strongly recommend you make some noise with your dealer to get them to investigate; something is causing that and it should be identified and corrected.
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Old 03-22-2021, 11:56 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by OutdoorIdaho View Post
Additionally, if that 50A fuse goes a second time, I strongly recommend you make some noise with your dealer to get them to investigate; something is causing that and it should be identified and corrected.
"Making a noise" isn't the issue; indeed, the 4-month delay before I can get into a service center after said noise has been heard is the real problem.

As long as I'm on shore power, things seem to work well--12V devices work and batteries get charged. So I can wait to get this fixed...but that means no boondocking for a few months....
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Old 03-22-2021, 11:58 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OutdoorIdaho View Post
A quick troubleshooting method:
Remove fuse 9 and see if Alde shows power available and if the couch motor works. Reinstall 9 and remove 1, check Alde and couch again.
I suspect the labels are standard for a given trailer model and that if they are switched then it is more likely mis-wired to the fuse terminals. That should be easy to correct.
However, it would be best to get confirmation from JC in Ohio. If a device is connected to a higher amp fuse than required and a fault occurs then it will not be properly protected.
Yes, it's easy to check if the labels do not reflect reality in such a way. I am just wondering if others have had anything similar, or did I win the poor-quality lottery....
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Old 03-22-2021, 12:23 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaybauman View Post
"Making a noise" isn't the issue; indeed, the 4-month delay before I can get into a service center after said noise has been heard is the real problem.

As long as I'm on shore power, things seem to work well--12V devices work and batteries get charged. So I can wait to get this fixed...but that means no boondocking for a few months....
Hi jaybauman,*

We're very sorry to learn about the issue you are having. Please send us a direct message with your contact information, email and the last 6 digits of your VIN so we can learn more and share it with our Customer Service and Technical Support team. We look forward to helping you get this resolved.

You can also reach Airstream Customer Service and Technical Support at*customersupport@airstream.com

Thank you.
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Old 03-23-2021, 12:57 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaybauman View Post
Last month, we took delivery of a '21 Classic 33. I schlepped up to NJ to pick it up and boondocked in Cracker Barrel parking lots back to Houston. Other than an initial problem with the Alde hot water system (the techs at Colonial knew exactly what to do to give me infinite hot water; that system now works great), everything seemed to be working correctly.

For Spring Break, we did the inaugural trip in great style: 6 nights at Disney Fort Wilderness (what a great camp ground....perhaps I'll comment on that one in a different thread).

Over the last week, I have discovered 2 electrical gremlins:

1. While loading the trailer (not plugged in to any 120V outlet), I got a few "low voltage" alarms. Not wanting to subject my new batteries to low voltages, I plugged in the trailer. Problem solved--or so I thoughts. When unloading this evening, I got the same alarm. On a hunch, I unplugged the umbilical from my tow vehicle. I had zero voltage in my trailer, so nothing would run. It was still daylight, and I read 13.3 V on the solar charge display. A DVM showed I had 12.5V across my batteries. Where do I begin to look for this electrical problem?

2. During my "trial" night in the Colonial parking lot, I blew a fuse while operating the foot elevator on the couch. A tech replaced the fuse and everything worked again. A few nights ago, the couch got stuck in the up position. That same fuse was blown, so I changed it and was able to return the seat to normal. The blown fuse is in Position 9 (10 Amp). According to the key, Position 9 should be for Alde system and Position 1 (25 Amp) is for the Sofa Motor. Am I misreading this, or is my fuse panel mislabeled? Does the sofa motor really need a 25A fuse, causing the existing 10A to frequently blow? Here's a pic of my panel:


All the local RV repair shops are backed up, so I'd rather diagnose and/or repair this myself if possible. What are your thoughts on my issues?

Thanks,
Jayson
Jason what were the issues with the Alde and what did colonial do to give you infinite hot water Thanks-Chris
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Old 03-23-2021, 04:06 AM   #9
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Jason what were the issues with the Alde and what did colonial do to give you infinite hot water Thanks-Chris
Hi Chris

Upon delivery, I had only tepid water at the sinks and mostly cold water in the shower, even though I had turned on the shower boost. The tech adjusted the mixing valve on the Alde unit and the mixing valve on the shower hardware. After these adjustments, all 4 of us can take back-to-back showers and nobody complains about cold water.

There are many places in this forum that describes these fixes. If you haven't already, it's worth reading the journey in the "Much Ado About Ale" thread. This link contains a quick reference guide to making the adjustment on the Alde unit.

I'm thankful for the folks who have shared their Alde journeys with us; I have definitely learned from them!
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Old 03-23-2021, 02:09 PM   #10
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Awesome TV & AS you now have! Let the adventures continue.
Hopefully all the kinks get worked out very soon.
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Old 03-24-2021, 04:30 AM   #11
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Thanks for all the info!!
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Old 07-19-2021, 10:23 AM   #12
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Update on Sofa/Alde Fuse Confusion

Update: Last week, I had my trailer serviced in Jackson Center. Among other things, they spent (a lot!) of time diagnosing my “con-fuse-ion” with why my recliner motors would blow the Alde fuse. It turns out that my trailer has some unexpected wiring configuration (duh!) and the Alde control panel was in the same loop as the sofa motors. The tech could not understand how or why this was the case, so he simply created a new circuit for the sofa motors—so now I have an additional fuse.

Note to all newer Classic 33 owners: You might want to take a look and see if your sofa motors are on the Alde circuit. Remove Fuse #9 (Alde) and see if you can raise/lower the foot rest. If you have this same problem, you should get it addressed ASAP before warranty coverage ends. In my case, the current for the sofa motors was running through my Alde control panel, which caused the fuse to frequently blow. My trailer was manufactured in December 2020, for a time scale reference.
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Old 07-19-2021, 08:44 PM   #13
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Sofa/ Recliner motor

I just took delivery of my 2021 30' Classic RBQ last month. With the trailer running off battery it seems the recliners (in front) don't work. Judging from jaybauman's post it sounds like they operate on AC only. I will take another look at the fuses; I didn't see one labeled sofa on my first look.

Is my presumption correct? Or should they operate off the inverter?
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Old 07-19-2021, 09:13 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RexRad View Post
I just took delivery of my 2021 30' Classic RBQ last month. With the trailer running off battery it seems the recliners (in front) don't work. Judging from jaybauman's post it sounds like they operate on AC only. I will take another look at the fuses; I didn't see one labeled sofa on my first look.

Is my presumption correct? Or should they operate off the inverter?
On my ‘21 Classic 33, the recliner motors operate on 12V DC. The sofa motors are wired to a 10A blade fuse, not a circuit breaker. The inverter has nothing to do with it. Are you sure you looked at the labels for all your fuses?
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Old 07-20-2021, 05:36 PM   #15
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Sofa Fuses

These are the fuse labels. None appear to be blown.

Suspect I have a bad connection somewhere. Perhaps dislodged when I installed the camera.
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