2019 classic 33 lift kit

[Djmkcity]

I have a classic 33 on order (Jan-feb delivery) and was wondering if anyone had a lift kit installed. Is it helpful and how does it affect towing

[StuartsDad]

Last week, I installed the Dexter 3" axle spacers on my 2018 Flying Cloud 28. Love the look and ground clearance. Have only towed 20 miles since install, but no difference that I can tell.

[kb7our]

Originally Posted by StuartsDad

Last week, I installed the Dexter 3" axle spacers on my 2018 Flying Cloud 28. Love the look and ground clearance. Have only towed 20 miles since install, but no difference that I can tell.

Would love to see some pics and hints/tips/method you used as we have the same setup. Wade

[StuartsDad]

Wade, my first step was to look at a couple of YouTube videos out there and read as many posts on this site that I could find on the axle spacers. From that information, you get a good feel for the Do's and Don't to develop a plan. This is what I did:

To lift the trailer, I had a pair of heavy duty auto repair ramps that would support the weight of my AS. I pulled the front wheels onto the ramps which put the rear wheels/axle safely off the ground with enough room to work underneath and reinstall wheels once spacers were installed. Trailer remained attached to TV to prevent movement. I did place jack stands at the two jack points towards the rear of the trailer, just in case, but they were not supporting any weight. Once rear axle completed, backed off ramps, placed them behind rear wheels and backed onto ramps to raise front wheels. As others have said, never remove all four wheels, block it, then climb underneath. If you don't have ramps, a pair can be cheaply and easily made. Buy 2 ea. 2x8x8's, cut each into 12", 20", 28" and 36" pieces. Nail or screw together like a stair step. With the ramps, no trailer jacking needed. Jack only needed to lower and raise axle.

A heavy duty impact wrench is a must, IMO. The tapered thread lock nuts will fight you all the way and some of the positions you are in doesn't lend itself to good leverage to wrench by hand. Hernia operations are no fun. The nuts have a right way and wrong way. I put an arrow on each with a sharpie so I wouldn't forget and easier to see when underneath. You will need to remove the shock from the frame post on all four to clear access for impact gun. With a deep 15/16 impact socket, you can get impact gun on all 16 nuts, but 1-2 bolts heads on each spacer are a PITA to get a wrench on to keep it from spinning. Some who have installed welded tabs on bolt heads or spacer blocks to keep it from turning. I'm not a welder. I took a cheap, 15/16 wrench, cut it half, clamped to a piece of 18" rod I had to make a long handle to slide between frame rail and belly pan to hold bolt. On one side, rear belly pan was so close to frame, open end of wrench would not fit, but box end would. That is why wrench was cut in two. Each trailer/floorplan is different.


As others did, I scribed my frame with a yellow line before loosening axle brackets to make sure spacers were properly positioned. There was no play in the spacer holes and they came out right on my lines. Loosen bolts on both ends of axle, support axle with floor jack and only remove bolts only from the end you are working. No need to drop whole axle.

As the spacer reviews stated, the paint sucked. I scraped and repainted beforehand. No biggie.

The install would have been a one day job, with a helper, had it not been for an issue I ran across on my unit. It may have been unique to my unit or to my floorplan and I didn't notice it when I looked underneath before ordering the kit. The issue was: The rear belly pan that covers the waste tanks was installed so close to the rear axle that the corners of the pan covered the axle bracket, so it would not drop down and no room for the spacer block. It looked like an "oh crap" moment when the trailer was built, given the way the top corner of the pan was sloppily cut off with tin snips. I removed rivets on both corners, cut pan on a taper, reshaped and riveted so it looked better than original, but this set me back 1/2 day.

Raised hitch dead two bolt holes and all was level. Not a job I would want to do every day, but happy with results. I did not take pictures as I did the install, but can provide finished product pic's, if needed. If anyone has the belly pan issue, I can take pictures of my mod.

I'm probably forgetting something, but already more information than you likely wanted. Will happily provide more info as needed.

David

[kb7our]

Thank you very much, David! This is super helpful and I will digest it more before proceeding. I have the kit and 2 Trailer Air Pluses that should help raise one axle at a time, along with jack stands, floor jack, massive torque wrench, etc. Really appreciate your taking the time to respond with good info. Wade

[GMFL]

I’ve done my 23D. It’s not a 33 but same principle. Here is a link to my blog post.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/blog...lift-kit-2901/

[tjdonahoe]

Originally Posted by Djmkcity

I have a classic 33 on order (Jan-feb delivery) and was wondering if anyone had a lift kit installed. Is it helpful and how does it affect towing

...I installed the dexter 3” kit on our 13 31’ Classic...no difference in towing....it raised the step 3” which is good...and don’t have to be so selective in pulling into a fuel stop....no more dragging....22,000 miles I like it....

[tjdonahoe]

I backed my trailer inside on a couple boards, rear axle only...jacked each side up to remove front axle tires..scribe a reference line on inside...loosen one side...then the other side and install the spacer snug it up then do other side..check your scribe marks..tighten bolts ....I torqued mine to 150 ft lbs..finis..now install tires..do the same for the rear...it can’t fall as the other axle is is holding it along with a jack on each side....I did have to weld a tab on some of the bolt heads to keep them from turning...