WeBoost Drive 4GX RV pole antenna dream

[TBone55]

Like that title?!

I'm a newbie at all of this but am getting ready for our first big trip with the 2018 23CB. We'll be gone about a month so wanted to stay connected (just bought the WeBoost) but also wasn't thrilled with the idea of drilling a hole in the roof. I also was unsure where to place the antenna. But, I actually had a dream of a possible solution! Please tell me if this is just crazy talk!

Why couldn't I have a stand-alone, pole-mounted, omni directional antenna that I could place wherever when camping and screw the cable into the exterior cable TV input? On the other end, disconnect the TV and hook it to the WeBoost? Then the only cable I need to run is for the interior antenna.

What do you folks think?

Tim

[rocco52]

If that unit uses coax I see no reason why that would not work. Remember that you would need to turn the Signal Amplifier off or use a splitter on the coax before it goes into the amplifier. Also does it require power?

[Daquenzer]

Originally Posted by TBone55

Like that title?!

I'm a newbie at all of this but am getting ready for our first big trip with the 2018 23CB. We'll be gone about a month so wanted to stay connected (just bought the WeBoost) but also wasn't thrilled with the idea of drilling a hole in the roof. I also was unsure where to place the antenna. But, I actually had a dream of a possible solution! Please tell me if this is just crazy talk!

Why couldn't I have a stand-alone, pole-mounted, omni directional antenna that I could place wherever when camping and screw the cable into the exterior cable TV input? On the other end, disconnect the TV and hook it to the WeBoost? Then the only cable I need to run is for the interior antenna.

What do you folks think?

Tim

https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/tec...ion-cup-mount/

This is what I use and it works great. And it’s fairly cheap. No holes drilled. I use it with my Weboost.

[TBone55]

Yes it is a powered unit. I'll be digging through the box tonight and digesting the instructions!

[TBone55]

I'm loving that suction cup mount! Thanks for the tip.

[RedSHED]

If you'll only receive through it, probably OK, I think. If you're going to transmit with it, maybe.

Think of a fish tank full of jello, now think of making a nice wave in that fish tank. Now put another fish tank right up next to it. If they're both filled to about the same level, you can remove that common wall, and that wave can look pretty similar on both tanks. But if they're not filled to the same level, that wave isn't going to propagate very well from one tank to the next.

Your radio wave is a little bit like that when you transmit. The transmitter makes a wave which goes through the cable to the antenna. If both the cable coming out of the transmitter and the antenna are similar electrically (have similar impedance), the standing wave you can make on each will be at about a 1:1 ratio - this will very likely get your signal out nicely.

But if the characteristics of the cable differ from the antenna's, then not so much. I'm thinking TV cable coax is going to be different from the cable coming out of your transmitter. I'm also thinking that since you're not making a really big wave (i.e. not pushing a whole lot of power, probably milliwatts), it very likely won't damage anything and you'll have a fun experiment. Maybe it' ll work.

However, if you were pushing more than a couple watts out the antenna, then I'd maybe find a ham friend to help figure out the "SWR" (a fancy name for the height of jello in my fish tank).

I hope this helps, I don't guarantee it's correct, and I certainly don't intend to sound like I'm talking down to anyone. If I've done that, please accept my apologies in advance.

Cheers!

[ghaynes755]

Tim

You have the perfect setup for doing this. The exterior antenna for the Drive 4 GX uses RG6 and standard cable TV F connectors. Easy to make an extension cable if needed. You should be fine connecting to the exterior cable TV connector but then finding the end of that cable on the inside of the trailer for connection to the 4GX box. A simple painters pole attached to the trailer tongue/propane tanks would work fine. Just get the antenna above the trailer for best results.

Weboost also makes their own pole setup which you can see at https://www.weboost.com/products/ant...ing-pole-25-ft. It uses a pair of mounts that you attach to the side of the trailer. But for the size/weight of the external antenna you have it is overkill.

I've used the painter pole method for years and it works just fine.

[SSquared]

Originally Posted by ghaynes755

Tim

You have the perfect setup for doing this. The exterior antenna for the Drive 4 GX uses RG6 and standard cable TV F connectors. Easy to make an extension cable if needed. You should be fine connecting to the exterior cable TV connector but then finding the end of that cable on the inside of the trailer for connection to the 4GX box. A simple painters pole attached to the trailer tongue/propane tanks would work fine. Just get the antenna above the trailer for best results.

Weboost also makes their own pole setup which you can see at https://www.weboost.com/products/ant...ing-pole-25-ft. It uses a pair of mounts that you attach to the side of the trailer. But for the size/weight of the external antenna you have it is overkill.

I've used the painter pole method for years and it works just fine.

We have the Weboost Connect 65 RV, which comes with a 25 foot pole and some 75 ohm coax. We connect the outside cable to the satellite connection on the trailer. Inside the trailer, that connects to a cable that comes out of the wall in the cabinet next to the Blu-ray player.

This setup works fine. Note that this uses the satellite input, not the TV input.

[centennialman]

I made a pole out of black ABS pipe with screw connectors so I could take it apart into smaller pieces for traveling. It is secured under the jack foot in a flagpole mount/plate. It has withstood high winds just fine. It is 13 feet tall and clears the Airstream and other RV's around me. I drilled a small hole in the frame under the window and the cable goes through there to the WeBoost unit inside. I am really happy with the installation and it works well.

[greghoro]

I have two TV antenna connections coming into my trailer; one for cable TV and the other for Satellite. Assuming you have the same.



The cable TV connection runs to the antenna booster. The Satellite connection runs close to where your DVD player is located. I'm not familiar with your model, so can't say for sure. However, unless you have a Sat system, that wire is not connected to anything. Find that end and use it for your proposed system and you wont have to fool with the cable TV wire.


That said, the TV cable wiring in your trailer is 75 ohm impedance, as someone else mentioned. It may not match up with the wiring for the WeBoost, which might be 50 ohm impedance. If there is an impedance mismatch it should still work, but maybe not deliver in a real fringe area.


Worth the try, in my opinion.




Greg

[spclkaz]

Here a second vote for a painters pole. I have used one for years as an antenna mount

[GammaDog]

Or try a telescoping aluminum flag pole. That’s what we use. In my experience, there is a narrow band between the point where normal cell signal fails and where even a good booster won’t help you. If you are camping in that band a tall antenna mount give you the best chance of achieving a connection. I mounted galvanized 1” “L” brackets to the top of an extendable 20’ pole. I use the standard WeBoost magnetic base antenna. In the right location it’s a miracle. Often it is an additional hour of frustration when making camp ending in a sense of failure and a discussion with the DW that she won’t be binge streaming Victoria on Masterpiece from that particular campsite.

[InterBlog]

Good thread. I've worked on this issue repeatedly over the past 2 years or so. At one point, I purchased an individual consult from Technomadia, for a specific low-cell-signal scenario (I have my own small business and I need reliable cell for business purposes).

Some thread-relevant observations based on work I've done to date:

(1) If you can return your newly-purchased weBoost and get a SureCall2Go 3.0 instead, it might be worth doing that. The weBoost 4GX has been the gold standard for several years, but even Technomadia said publicly that the newest SureCall device may produce significantly better results. See this thread
for further info.

(2) Some of the references above show a directional antenna in use with the cell booster. Directional antennae are highly overrated for mobile applications. If you have any line-of-sight obstructions (e.g., trees; topography), they will actually make your cell reception worse.

(3) Sure you can do this or that with the weBoost, but here's the question that needs to be answered: Will any of those antenna alternatives gain you anything over and above the "stubby" that comes with the 4GX? In other words, will you gain more signal than you lose by deploying the alternative?

On that last point, we have had the best results to date with the weBoost equipment just as it is unboxed. Performance-wise, nothing has beat the omnidirectional stubby that comes with. I don't know why this is, and I'm not saying that there's nothing out there that WOULD beat it - if there is, I sure would like to see conclusive data. So if any of you have before-and-after results to share, included stubby vs. another antenna that you have erected, please add that info here. Thanks!

[greghoro]

How is the antenna attached to the painters pole?


Ideally, I would like to have some sort of adapter permanently attached to the antenna that would screw onto the end of the painters pole.




Greg

[GammaDog]

Originally Posted by greghoro

How is the antenna attached to the painters pole?


Ideally, I would like to have some sort of adapter permanently attached to the antenna that would screw onto the end of the painters pole.




Greg

I use a 20' extendable flag pole, not a painters pole, but I found 1" or maybe 1 1/2" galvanized steel "L" brackets at Home Depot, plus bolts, lock washers and nuts. The two brackets are bolted to each other using four bolts with the top of the pole in between. Like Interblog above you (thanks, IB!) I have purchased a range of antennae but the one I use is the original magnetic based WeBoost "stubby".

You could use just one "L" bracket and two "U" bolts to do the same thing and still have 24 letters of the alphabet left over for other projects.

[Mollysdad]

For a painter's pole, use the button lock type.
They're a little pricy, but will outlast the friction poles 20 to 1.
Or, if you're impressing your neighbors, look into "Hot sticks".
Fiberglass poles power line guys use. Extend up to 35' (don't get this big ) are in 5' sections so they collapse. I recommend the "tele-pole II, with the square button. Doesn't twist and easier to collapse.

[ghaynes755]

Interblog, over several years I have had situations where the stubby didn't do the job but either an Omni or directional YAGI worked. Stubby on top of my Airstream with a good ground. That is my default. If that doesn't do it then I try an omni directional on top of my flagpole/painters pole. If still not good then I pull out the Yagi. You are correct that sometimes the Yagi is worse out of the three types. Good example was in southern Wyoming Pole Mountain boondocks sites. Signal was bouncing off of the hills. I knew where the tower was located yet the best signal was about 120 degrees away and pointing at nearby mountain/hillside.

Tim, when none of these work I get out my Hughesnet Gen5 dish which I can use for both data and voice with absolutely no cell signal.

[greghoro]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

Or, if you're impressing your neighbors, look into "Hot sticks". Fiberglass poles power line guys use.

Thanks.



When you mentioned fiberglass poles, I remembered I have a fiberglass telescoping manual pole saw for pruning. Checking Home Depot, one can purchase a 7' to 14' fiberglass pole saw for $45. Round, so it can twist in the wind, however I'm using an Omni antenna, so its doesn't matter in my case.




Greg

[3DRad]

I made a pole antenna for the Wilson amp (older version of the Weboost), and the WiFi amp antenna. I found that when I am on the road, I want the setup and take down at the campsite to go fast. So after several trips I permanently mounted the antennas on the front of the AC/heat pump unit, and ran the cables through the refrigerator roof vent. I use the cabinet above the refrigerator for the WiFi and cell phone amplifiers. I also ran DC and AC power there. I made a block of Delrin plastic to attach the antenna mounts to. This block is then attached to the metal frame of the front of the AC/heat pump, so there is less chance for electrical interference. The antennas are about a foot taller than the rest of the trailer. This has worked well for me.
John

[Meddle]

Originally Posted by 3DRad

So after several trips I permanently mounted the antennas on the front of the AC/heat pump unit, and ran the cables through the refrigerator roof vent.

John

I was considering doing the same thing? Do you have any pics of how the antenna is mounted to the AC unit?