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jranck · 09-28-2021, 10:47 AM

Not sure what measurement you would be missing as long as you have values in each of the slots when you set up your trailer. When I purchased my truck, there was two different levels of trailer package options that I had to select to get all the different features. Perhaps that view isn't available on your truck?

DoublTrouble · 09-28-2021, 01:35 PM

Thanks.

I guess I'll try post #107 dimensions. I have a 27FB which is really like a 28'.But with P3, the coupler to hitch receiver is obviously longer. I initially used some dimensions I an earlier post. The image was ok but the "mesh point" between mirror cameras and tailgate were wonky. That is not a real issue for me since I've been towing 20+ years and never had a camera....

Since I bought the truck I thought it would be a useful tool. I'm pretty sure that the truck has the correct towing package to support the view for back up lines. I'll reset the trailer set up and calibrate again. I saw a dimension field that I had previously left blank the last time I messed around with the towing app. Maybe I need to show a bit more patience with the thing!

still open to more ideas!

mgblake13 · 10-01-2021, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DoublTrouble

Has anyone else been able to duplicate MGs post #57?

Mine won't allow that selection, one "button" is just grayed-out. I suspect that I missed some other measurement field, sadly.
Help!
A back up camera without any reference points is pretty worthless.

Double trouble I sent you a direct message. That view is new to 2021 models. As I said in my message to you it’s not as helpful as I thought. I have better luck using my side mirrors for directional guidance and the camera mainly to make sure I don’t back into anything.

I have also found the jackknife feature to be very inaccurate. I have the warning part turned off.

Greg

mgblake13 · 10-01-2021, 08:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jranck

Mine has the "jack knife warning" feature, so if you find yourself turning the wheel all the way one way and then the other, the warning can come up. At that point, the directional indicators in the view can get real wonkey and not have any relationship to where the back end of the trailer is really going.

I agree. The jackknife feature doesn’t work. At least for me it doesn’t. It doesn’t agree with the actual angle of my truck and trailer and before I turned it off it would go crazy on me.

DoublTrouble · 10-01-2021, 10:56 AM

Thanks for that information.

I agree on the "jack knife " warning, kind of worthless.

I realize that there is no substitute for the mirrors. I am kind of hoping that the camera will help more with night parking. My greatest fear, back up lights blinding you from reflection off Airstream, and darkness all around. What's lurking back there for me to run into? hee hee.

beachrats · 10-18-2021, 08:16 AM

Here is a picture where I mounted mine, I moved the classic badge down, riveted the old holes, ran the cord into behind the bed then down into trunk, across the roof or the trunk, then down through to the bottom drivers side of the trailer and then up to the tongue

DoublTrouble · 10-27-2021, 09:28 AM

Yes!

It's working with the lines.

Thanks MGBlake13 and all others. I tried it today and found that the lines were indeed helpful. Now I just need to figure out which measurements will solve the 90 degree slanting of rear camera image. It kind of looks like all the trees were blown over as I drive down the road!

j

DoublTrouble · 10-29-2021, 02:07 PM

Shucks, it's not working today! I've got to figure out why...

driftwood1 · 11-28-2021, 08:54 PM

Starting to have some issues with my transparent trailer camera:

1. It is almost impossible to get the the cable to plug into the receptacle on the back of the Sierra... takes brute force, and many tries to ever get it to seat. If any of the blue o-ring is showing, it will not work. I feel like I am going to break something every time I connect it because I have to push it in so hard. Perhps some silicone spray on outside of cable end to try to get it to slide in easier?

2. The last two trips it has been flaky. The view buttons flash on and off, then the camera view freezes on a frame and is no longer "live". Other times it is pixalted (in color, along edges of the screen) before it freezes up.

I thought maybe it got got water in the cable end, but I let it dry out for several days at the last campground and I had the same problem driving home.

Anyone else having similar issues?

mgblake13 · 11-29-2021, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftwood1

Starting to have some issues with my transparent trailer camera:

1. It is almost impossible to get the the cable to plug into the receptacle on the back of the Sierra... takes brute force, and many tries to ever get it to seat. If any of the blue o-ring is showing, it will not work. I feel like I am going to break something every time I connect it because I have to push it in so hard. Perhps some silicone spray on outside of cable end to try to get it to slide in easier?

2. The last two trips it has been flaky. The view buttons flash on and off, then the camera view freezes on a frame and is no longer "live". Other times it is pixalted (in color, along edges of the screen) before it freezes up.

I thought maybe it got got water in the cable end, but I let it dry out for several days at the last campground and I had the same problem driving home.

Anyone else having similar issues?

I have to push the cable in firmly otherwise I don't get an image. It always looks to be all the way in so unfortunately I can't rely on the connection visually. I always have to start the truck and check the video screen to make sure it is connected. It gets frustrating when I forget because pulling over is not always easy in order to fix it. Fortunately once it's on it doesn't fail me like yours has been doing. My cable doesn't have the resistance going in like yours has. I will follow to see what other's recommend. Good luck.

tbrowne · 11-29-2021, 10:31 AM

In case you haven't thought of it: A little dielectric grease on the o-rings make the connection easier and the o-rings will last longer. The alignment tab on the plug also needs to align properly with the female connector on the truck. It's hard to see in dim light but good alignment makes things go smoother.

jranck · 11-30-2021, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftwood1

Starting to have some issues with my transparent trailer camera:

1. It is almost impossible to get the the cable to plug into the receptacle on the back of the Sierra... takes brute force, and many tries to ever get it to seat. If any of the blue o-ring is showing, it will not work. I feel like I am going to break something every time I connect it because I have to push it in so hard. Perhps some silicone spray on outside of cable end to try to get it to slide in easier?

2. The last two trips it has been flaky. The view buttons flash on and off, then the camera view freezes on a frame and is no longer "live". Other times it is pixalted (in color, along edges of the screen) before it freezes up.

I thought maybe it got got water in the cable end, but I let it dry out for several days at the last campground and I had the same problem driving home.

Anyone else having similar issues?

My camera suddenly stopped working. I had the truck into the dealer for a TPMS issue and asked them to check the camera connection to the truck to see if there was a problem (to isolate whether the issue was on the truck side or the trailer side). Long story short, they found some module that needs replacing and that had to be ordered from GM. There were two other trucks at the dealer waiting for the same module to be replaced.

Hopefully when the part comes in and it is replaced, that will solve the issue. However, like others here, I am very frustrated with how tight the connection is and how hard it is to make a solid connection.

driftwood1 · 12-01-2021, 07:00 AM

jranck, I had the module replaced earlier in the year as well, when my trailer lights would not shut off when the engine was off. Was a "trailer light control module" I think. It did not affect my camera though, just the trailer lights. Perhaps there is another module that affects the camera.

**moosetags** · 12-01-2021, 07:54 AM

My camera has always worked just fine, but getting the plug in and out has been an issue. I have found that the plug must be completely seated for the camera to work properly.

I have found that a zipper lube stick works well to get the plug in and out more easily. In a pinch, a chap stick will also work.

Brian

tbrowne · 12-02-2021, 03:27 AM

I think I'd stick to dielectric grease - it's not a conductor. Other products might conduct electricity and cause problems if they touch the contacts on the camera lead.

driftwood1 · 12-03-2021, 08:53 AM

I put the dielectric grease on the connector and it certainly slides in easily now. I hooked the camera up parked where it is now beneath my deck, and it gave me the rear view, but I did not hitch up the trailer to drive it yet to check the full transparent trailer view (I think that view does not engage until you are moving). Will report back next time I tow it.

Thanks for the input.

jaybauman · 12-07-2021, 12:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by driftwood1

2. The last two trips it has been flaky. The view buttons flash on and off, then the camera view freezes on a frame and is no longer "live". Other times it is pixalted (in color, along edges of the screen) before it freezes up.

I thought maybe it got got water in the cable end, but I let it dry out for several days at the last campground and I had the same problem driving home.

Anyone else having similar issues?

When I took delivery of my 2020 GMC 3500HD, I immediately installed the camera on my Airstream. It worked beautifully for awhile. Then it got flaky. Then it stopped working altogether. Since I was an early adopter (and a loud complainer!) GM "borrowed" my truck and trailer and had them for awhile trying to figure out what had happened.

Eventually, they found out that the Fakra connector that plugs into the bumper socket was bad. In fact, it would slide right off the cable itself. While admitting no fault, GM did take care of everything and I (eventually) got a new camera that works.

Through my ordeal, I had off-the-record conversations with various GM folks and their representatives. It was suggested to me that the initial version(s) of the camera may have had insufficient crimping of the terminus onto the cable. Based on part number, my camera was 2nd generation--which was still quite early in the product lifecycle. Incidentally, I have purchased another camera to install on my Classic 33. I think this camera--purchased 18 months after the first--is the 7th gen product. Clearly, they have had some learning curves with this product.

The biggest problem I have with the technology is the use of the obscure Fakra connection. There are several different coax solutions they could have used, and it's not immediately clear why this was the preferred option. The Fakra connector is frequently used in antenna applications--you probably have several behind the dashboard radio--and is capable of handling the bandwidth and latency requirements for the HD camera operation. However, in typical use, it is plugged once and then stays plugged in forever. I do not know if this particular connector was designed for repeated plugging/unplugging usage patterns. The fact that they get "stickier" over time would suggest this is not a good implementation. In fact, the newer cameras come with huge warning stickers that scream the obvious DO NOT GRAB THE CABLE WHILE UNPLUGGING, while the earlier versions did not. Clearly, GM has had some learnings here.

If you are having trouble with the camera performance, check to see how robustly the Fakra connector is attached to the cable. With the right crimping tool, you could possibly make a repair if the integrity has been compromised.

Since officially I don't know any of the stuff I just typed, I disclaim "your mileage may vary." Good luck.

RexRad · 09-18-2022, 11:31 AM

A little follow up.
My camera install (#103-111) is working great after a year plus of use. I'm glad I did an interior route, though it was a little frustrating at the time. Very clean looking, and no exterior conduits.
I actually do not use the "invisible trailer" view, that I so craved, very often. But for backing the trailer into the garage or a campsite the rear camera works great.
I was a little worried that running the cable through the heater housing might be an issue due to heating and possible melting, but I thought that because it uses hot water (no more than 100 C) it shouldn't be a problem. I am happy to report that, so far, no issues.

flyingfinn · 01-21-2024, 12:51 AM

I just purchased a GM Transparent Trailer camera for my 2023 Silverado 2500 HD with 4-wheel drive. The truck is tall and its rear camera is at 55” high. The instructions say to mount the trailer camera 4 inches above the truck camera. My Airstream is a 28 ft 2008 Safari. I would have to mount the camera on the rear window of the Safari. No-good in my judgment. Would it work seamlessly if it is mounted above the window? Any advice will be gladly accepted.
I ran the cable inside behind the kitchen and oven, water heater and shower. It was bit of a chore but very do-able. I unmounted the camera from its large housing and drilled a hole in the front right above where the power cables went in. The hole can be patched and made water-tight. I will post the pictures of the project as an encouragement for others.

tbrowne · 01-21-2024, 06:13 AM

My camera is mounted on the window of my 30RB and it works perfectly. I mounted a piece of high-density polyethylene on the window with automotive trim tape and then mounted the camera to the polyethylene piece. It's been in place for three years without any problems and can be removed if ever needed. I left enough slack in the cable so that I can still open the window to circulate air at night.