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summerkid · 08-10-2011, 07:54 AM

i do not think you have to be "invited" to burning man.

just hovercraft on in. they'll be expecting you.

worldinchaos · 08-10-2011, 12:25 PM

And you can barter your speedy metal working skills for practically anything there. Can you imagine how many poorly constructed bicycle-powered machines there are for you to repair welds on?

Darkspeed · 08-10-2011, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by worldinchaos

And you can barter your speedy metal working skills for practically anything there. Can you imagine how many poorly constructed bicycle-powered machines there are for you to repair welds on?

Hey I can do that! I would even be willing to show up early to help build...

Iv never seen a tribe with an open door policy so I figured I needed to be invited to the AS camp

worldinchaos · 08-10-2011, 01:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkspeed

I have 14 MSX120 panels, pair of Trace SW inverters, Sunxtender batteries, etc.. Sitting in my storage from when I moved from TX to FL. I'm starting construction on my home next year and the AS will be home for a minimum of two years during that process. Thought it would be a worthwhile experiment to transplant as much of the system as practical into the AS. The land I bought here is covered in giant oak trees and there is zero sun penetration for solar - except one edge where I will park the AS

Besides it would be cool to get invited to Burning Man next year and a rolling solar array would be useful!

What if you made it a slide-out on one or both sides? Then you would have more roof surface area for the solar array in addition to the extra space for the live-in period. Based on what you've done so far, I'm sure the frame can support it. Just add a little radial bracing to the shell and you should be good to go. That is an exaggeration of course, but its still do-able

Darkspeed · 08-10-2011, 01:15 PM

What about an articulated awning out of panels?

worldinchaos · 08-10-2011, 01:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkspeed

What about an articulated awning out of panels?

You already had that planned didn't you?

What if you take advantage of all the extra headroom by using the top few inches of space for slide out solar panels? That way they could be well hidden when not being used. I'm thinking something like a false ceiling, with motorized rollers on a track above, moving a set of panels to one side or both. The exterior shell could simply have upward opening flaps (spring loaded) that get pushed up when the slide opens out, but then seal flush when not being used.

However, if you do articulated awnings, and make them big enough, that would give you the flexibility of opening up the roof for a front-to-back skylight. Combine that with the extra headroom and your trailer would feel more luxurious than most houses.

Darkspeed · 08-10-2011, 01:54 PM

Hey that's a cool idea

Darkspeed · 08-10-2011, 06:23 PM

I have an issue...

Do I trim off two inches of the lower edge of the skin all the way around to remove the wheel well cut outs, the double punched rivet holes, and corrosion where the belly band was...

Or do I underlap the old skins lower edge when i install the new add on band of skin..

I dont like the idea of underlapping a panel on the side

There will be no belly band trim.. it will just be a row of rivets.. If i decide to trim back to good clean skin it will be a double row of rivets..

I did however trim off all of the plywood trap from the lower mounting profile , wire wheel it, aluminum prime it, etc...

worldinchaos · 08-10-2011, 10:48 PM

Maybe I'm missing something. What's the underlap issue now? I thought the concern there was with the distribution of shear forces on the next panel, but if it is on the vertical section of the skin, does it make a difference whether it is underlapped or overlapped?

Unless you are speaking from a drainage perspective and accumulating dust, grime, etc?

Hey and you could even overlap and leave the rivet band in place by doing some fancy wainscotting on the bottom foot.

Darkspeed · 08-11-2011, 06:29 AM

It's just bad practice as it is more prone to leak.

summerkid · 08-11-2011, 06:45 AM

OK, and no cracks about the hour, yes I just got home ...
Of course you want to create a shingle effect, right? And it seems to me that a double row of rivets could be kind of dressy since you're skipping the belly band. Unless I'm misunderstanding the physics of what you're pondering, seems there are no benefits to keeping the tattered inches intact.

Darkspeed · 08-11-2011, 07:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by summerkid

OK, and no cracks about the hour, yes I just got home ...
Of course you want to create a shingle effect, right? And it seems to me that a double row of rivets could be kind of dressy since you're skipping the belly band. Unless I'm misunderstanding the physics of what you're pondering, seems there are no benefits to keeping the tattered inches intact.

I am thinking you are right. Once polished I'm sure you would not see the double row anyway

3Ms75Argosy · 08-11-2011, 08:39 AM

Just wondering... can't you trim back the two inches, then drill out the last row of rivets, overlap the new, and then use the existing last row of rivet holes, drill through the new aluminum, and rivet both old and new to the frame?

Then you wouldn't have a double row.
Marc

Darkspeed · 08-11-2011, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

Just wondering... can't you trim back the two inches, then drill out the last row of rivets, overlap the new, and then use the existing last row of rivet holes, drill through the new aluminum, and rivet both old and new to the frame?

Then you wouldn't have a double row.
Marc

I confuse... Say what?

worldinchaos · 08-11-2011, 02:37 PM

Oh wait! You're talking about the outside! Of course you want a shingle effect. I wouldn't do anything else. I would just cut off that two inches. I mean you're doing so much other work, is there really a disadvantage to it?

3Ms75Argosy · 08-11-2011, 03:17 PM

From the lower part of the original shell.... Trim up 2" to eliminate the wheel well trim. You now have some rivets (from the pic) that are close to the bottom. Put your new lower trim under the skin, and rivet through old skin and new skin through the old rivet line.

Does that make any sense?

Darkspeed · 08-11-2011, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3Ms75Argosy

From the lower part of the original shell.... Trim up 2" to eliminate the wheel well trim. You now have some rivets (from the pic) that are close to the bottom. Put your new lower trim under the skin, and rivet through old skin and new skin through the old rivet line.

Does that make any sense?

Ah yes but trimming all the way around the trailer to get rid of edge rot, rivet holes, and wheel arches leaves me with my old skin two inches above the U channel and no more rivet holes.

So splicing a new skin under the old will result in a row of rivets two inches above the U channel and then a required second row of rivets in the U channel

Darkspeed · 08-11-2011, 04:00 PM

The old rear U channel has died of crotch rot. Can this be bought?

worldinchaos · 08-11-2011, 05:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkspeed

The old rear U channel has died of crotch rot. Can this be bought?

Sounds like a personal problem. Might want to put that in off-topic forum...

Gene · 08-11-2011, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Darkspeed

The old rear U channel has died of crotch rot. Can this be bought?

Crotch rot can be bought easily on many urban street corners in the evening.

I guess asking about the "old rear U channel" is another way of saying "I have a friend with…."

Gene