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Old 10-22-2016, 04:19 PM   #1
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WeBoost Roof Antenna

I just purchased a 2017 25FB and would like to add a WeBoost antenna to the roof. My coach does not have a batwing antenna so I need to mount it to the roof itself. The antennas for this seem to all be magnetic mount. My questions are:

1) Is there an antenna that can be mounted to the flat roof for the WeBoost?
2) How have others mounted their antenna when there isn't a batwing?

I guess one option would be to adhere a piece of metal to the roof that the magnetic antenna could adhere to. I intend to run the wire through the roof to the entertainment cabinet so I'm looking for something that is a permanent mount.

Thanks,

-Doug
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Old 10-22-2016, 04:27 PM   #2
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WeBoost Roof Antenna

I used a small 4" magnetic antenna. It came with my weboost. It's not the most powerful available but it works.

I used sikaflex and stuck it to the top of the fridge vent and ran the wire down through the vent.
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Old 10-22-2016, 04:30 PM   #3
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here is what it looks like...


Click image for larger version

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Old 10-22-2016, 07:40 PM   #4
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That's probably what I'm going to go with, the little stubby antenna the weboost came with. I'll attach a piece of galvanized steel to the roof so the antenna will stick to it. Then caulk the wire to adhere it to the roof.

I found this trail elsewhere in the forum with some recommendations for antennas: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f451...na-157328.html

But I also found some testing done by technomadia.com/rvmobileinternet.com and the result was that the other antennas were only marginally better than the stubby antenna that came with the weboost.

If I really need higher gain at some point I'll add a flag pole and a Yagi antenna. But the stubby has been great in my truck so far.

-Doug
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Old 11-05-2016, 10:07 PM   #5
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I think you would be better off with the wineguard razor antenna. No lowering or raising batwings. Reception is automatic and great.
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:03 AM   #6
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Ummmmm...... a wineguard razor is built for tv reception, not for mobile / wireless spectrum reception.
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Old 11-11-2016, 07:21 PM   #7
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Doug, how do you propose to attach the steel to the roof? Too many years have passed since I studied chemistry, but dissimilar metals can set up an electrolysis that can destroy one or both. That wouldn't be covered by your warranty. Gluing the steel to the refrigerator vent may work, but, again, any damage to that vent probably wouldn't be covered by warranty.
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Old 11-11-2016, 09:24 PM   #8
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I'd consider sticking that steel plate to the roof with 3M VHB tape 4950, which will maintain an airspace between the two, and then seal all the way around the plate with Sikaflex 221 so water cannot get into that space. The Sikaflex will also help enhance the bond.

Just prep the roof area with some mineral spirits and maybe prime the spots to be taped with 3M primer 94 (I like the pens for this) before you stick it down.

BTW, once you stick that plate down this way, it will not come off without a fight, so be sure it is where you want it and that it is properly treated so that it will not rust.
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Old 11-12-2016, 07:52 AM   #9
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Rocinante got it right. Here's how my install looks. It's the little plate with the small antenna. The wire goes into my front cabinet where all my electronic gear is. I installed a 12v connection so I could plug in the Weboost unit. Click image for larger version

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Old 11-12-2016, 09:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
I think you would be better off with the wineguard razor antenna. No lowering or raising batwings. Reception is automatic and great.
Just an FYI on broadcast TV and Winegard. I spoke with their tech last week as to the demise of the Razar Air that I purchased two years ago. It is the one that is a direct replacement to the batwing and raised using the crank but bi-directional. I had the OEM batwing Sensor II and upgraded.

I was given some great info. Basically the Sensor II had a 12dB built-in amp with no HD. I added the HD "nose" before upgrading and the inside directional amp, Sensor Pro as well. The Sensor (batwings) got up to 18 amps then they came out with the Razar with 20 amps built-in. He informed me that the Razar was every bit as powerful as the Sensor IV but that batwings will get the low band and the Razars are designed for only the high. It was for that reason that they got bad reviews and eventually got nixed. Ironically I have checked all over FL using the band website and nowhere is low band used though in some parts of the country a station or two is listed. My experience was that I got two more stations in my hometown. There are several options now for antennas.
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Old 11-12-2016, 01:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dougtuck View Post
I just purchased a 2017 25FB and would like to add a WeBoost antenna to the roof. My coach does not have a batwing antenna so I need to mount it to the roof itself. The antennas for this seem to all be magnetic mount. My questions are:

1) Is there an antenna that can be mounted to the flat roof for the WeBoost?
2) How have others mounted their antenna when there isn't a batwing?

I guess one option would be to adhere a piece of metal to the roof that the magnetic antenna could adhere to. I intend to run the wire through the roof to the entertainment cabinet so I'm looking for something that is a permanent mount.

Thanks,

-Doug
I don't believe the small antenna that comes with the weBoost unit is sufficient to grab available signals. Give this, and based on much advice received on this site, I went with the SureCall antenna and used a mounting foot that I purchased from AM Solar. The mounting foot has 3M's VHB tape already applied - once the foot was attached to the roof, Dicor lap sealant was applied on top of the foot. Works very well. Run the wires as you wish.

I do use the weBoost's small antenna with the magnetic book on my aluminum body Ford F-150. I adhered a small flat rubber coated magnet to my TV's roof that the antenna easily and firmly connects to.

Hope this info helps. Dennis
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Old 11-12-2016, 01:25 PM   #12
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I had an 8 by 8 inch steel plate powder coated and mounted with 3M adhesive to roof of my 2014 23D. A bead of Sikaflex 221 was placed around the edge of the plate. I routed the wire attached to my 12 inch Wilson magnetic base antenna through the fridge vent and to my WeBoost 4GX. I found that the upgraded 12 inch gave much better results that the 4 inch stubby that came with the 4GX.

I noticed that the coach antenna is mounted on the rear of my 2017 25FB. Since you'll need to keep the Wilson antenna at least 12 inches from any other antenna, the best spot for the plate would be on the flat area at the rear of the front bare aluminum roof panel.

A magnetic 8x8 plate is sufficient for the proper ground plane effect needed by your cell boost antenna.

I've decided to install a SureCall SC-288W Fiberglass Omni Antenna on my new 25FB. It will be part of a full solar install, being mounted at the corner of a solar panel and the cable routed through the solar wiring roof entry point.
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Old 11-12-2016, 02:41 PM   #13
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Does Aluminum provide a ground effect base or do you need the steel plate? I understood that Aluminum was sufficient.
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Old 11-12-2016, 03:18 PM   #14
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Does Aluminum provide a ground effect base or do you need the steel plate? I understood that Aluminum was sufficient.
I believe any conductive surface will reflect waves properly. I used steel because I wanted the ability to try different magnetic antenna if necessary.

https://www.rvmobileinternet.com/res...ular-boosters/.
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Old 11-12-2016, 03:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigcgar View Post
Rocinante got it right. Here's how my install looks. It's the little plate with the small antenna. The wire goes into my front cabinet where all my electronic gear is. I installed a 12v connection so I could plug in the Weboost unit. Attachment 275277

Thanks, Bigcar, nice looking install, glad I had the right idea.

Oh, if you want to see photos of the installation I did a couple of months ago, you can see them here. I'm being lazy and slow about writing the accompanying blog post, but I will get there eventually. The installation could have been a little prettier in spots, but it seems to work quite well. http://www.casarocinante.com/Blog-Assets/Connectivity/
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Old 11-12-2016, 04:30 PM   #16
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Does Aluminum provide a ground effect base or do you need the steel plate? I understood that Aluminum was sufficient.
I asked this question to the Wilson tech a year ago and his answer was no. He said it needs to be ferrous.
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Old 11-12-2016, 05:23 PM   #17
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As a ham radio operator and a jack leg RF engineer, a ground plane of any sort just has to be conductive. Aluminum conducts much better than steel. I would take that tech advice with a large grain of salt.


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Old 11-12-2016, 05:34 PM   #18
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I did a lot of research and finally decided on the SureCall antenna. It has a built in ground plane so no need to mount a piece of ferrous metal on the roof. I was concerned about rust.

http://3gstore.com/product/3047_3g4g...i-antenna.html

I had a bracket made that mounts it to the rear of the air conditioner and raises the SureCall above the AC so its not shadowed by anything on the roof. Bay Area Airstream did the installation.

-Doug
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Old 11-12-2016, 07:49 PM   #19
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I had a bracket made that mounts it to the rear of the air conditioner and raises the SureCall above the AC so its not shadowed by anything on the roof.

Would love to see a picture of your SureCall antenna mount, when you get a chance.
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Old 02-02-2020, 06:27 AM   #20
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Has anybody tried to use WeBoost with the Poynting antenna that comes pre-wired on the Interstates?
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