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switz · 05-21-2013, 05:31 AM

Has anyone had issues with the two privacy pocket doors that define the bathroom? If so, how did you get them back on track or whatever repair was needed?

dznf0g · 05-21-2013, 06:14 AM

No issues here. If yours are like mine, the "rollers" stay in the track and the doors have a flip out lever which attaches the door to the roller stud. Look closely at the top of the door while on a stool. It should be evident.

String · 12-12-2013, 05:04 PM

Had to have the bathroom pocket door completely taken apart. The door stop inside the wall fell off allowing the door to fall off the track. A definite defect but the service department got on it and all is well!
String

switz · 12-12-2013, 06:12 PM

Count down to start build date is 28 days.

kry226 · 01-05-2014, 04:53 AM

Just came across this, and though mine is a '10, I'm sure there isn't any difference.

I had been noticing for a while that at times, the bedroom door had become tougher to close, like there was something catching. I looked into the pocket and rail, saw nothing of concern, and chalked it up to the trailer not being perfectly level.

It all came to a head when we went on vacation in November and we could not close the door for anything. So I went to disassembling the bedroom wall that creates the pocket and doing my best to remove the door from its rollers in the rail. After much consternation and prayer, the blasted thing came out.

The rail is held up by several screws and each of them were backing out somewhat, but one (of course, the one toward the curb side and toughest to reach) had come completely loose so that it was blocking a roller in the rail and preventing the door from moving more than a few inches and closing.

After much consternation and prayer, that blasted thing came out too. I tightened a couple screws and replaced the one screw which had stripped out its hole with a larger screw. Eureka!

I also "leveled" each door with the adjustable rollers so that each door closes flush with its associated door jamb. The point being that the door may or may not be level with the rail, but there are no more gaps when you close the door for a little privacy.

Hope this helps someone avoid (or fix) this issue which I am sure is not unique to my trailer.

dznf0g · 01-05-2014, 06:46 AM

YEs, let me try and find the thread....

EDIT: here it is....

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ed-109598.html

kry226 · 01-05-2014, 07:13 AM

Wow. That tool is a must-have for working on these doors and I will own one if I ever work on them again. Thanks!

dznf0g · 01-05-2014, 08:46 AM

One thing to consider when shopping for a 90* driver is the need to wedge a long board against the head of the tool, with the other end against your foot to create the necessary up force to engage the fastener head. I like the Milwaukee one because the little handle on the head locks in several positions.

I also used hex head screws for a more positive drive of the fastener. Careful though, don't get ones with too tall of a head. Could be a clearance issue with the tops of the door rollers.

Edit: Also, since my screws just backed out....not stripped, I used Gorilla glue on the threads to, hopefully, eliminate future backing out.
The root cause seems to be the stop block attached to the wall at the rear of the door comes off. (on my brother-in-law's as well) I reattached with screws through the bath wall, capped off with the same screw covers used throughout the interior. I have considered installing door bottom "ramps" on the floor to take the weight off the track during travel.

Farmer Dan · 01-05-2014, 08:52 AM

I had the same trouble with the door track on my '02 Classic. Dad had a bodyshop so I borrowed about 3' of 1/4" socket extensions and with the 18" or so that I had I was able to reassemble the track. The right angle tool solution is genius!!! The only thing to add about that is to be sure to have square drive screws and bits. The screws stay on the driver much better than Philips. McFeely's is an excellent source for both.
Dan

switz · 01-06-2014, 05:17 AM

I ordered that special tool in the referenced thread as another addition for my "just in case" tool bag. I think I will quit getting these items when the bag weighs as much as the trailer.

Pahaska · 01-06-2014, 04:20 PM

The screws that held the rail to the ceiling on the curb side backed out and jammed my sliding door. I cut a hole in the adjoining wardrobe wall and installed a 12" sailboat deck plate. Plenty of room to replace the screws with a size larger and install extra fasteners. I had to go in once more in the 5 or 6 years since and I just had to unscrew the deck plate for easy access.

I also put a 12" deck plate in the wardrobe floor for easy access to my water pump since the floor in my 28 is not hinged like it was in my former 25.

Deck plates are also excellent for access in showers since they are totally watertight.

switz · 01-07-2014, 02:03 AM

Could you please post a link to a source of the 12" deck plate? I want to put the link into my ever expanding Airstream resources "favorites" in the browser.

Thanks.

SteveH · 01-07-2014, 04:13 AM

I had so much trouble keeping the sliding bedroom door from falling down in our 31' Classic, that I just took the door out of our new to us 34'.

We never closed the thing, it was a major maintenance problem, and only consumed space. Maybe if we had other people staying with us it would be needed, but that doesn't happen.

Pahaska · 01-07-2014, 05:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by switz

Could you please post a link to a source of the 12" deck plate? I want to put the link into my ever expanding Airstream resources "favorites" in the browser.
Thanks.

Just do a search on deck plates. Here is the first one that came up. Deck Plates by Beckson Any marine store, such as West Marine stocks them.

dznf0g · 01-07-2014, 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH

I had so much trouble keeping the sliding bedroom door from falling down in our 31' Classic, that I just took the door out of our new to us 34'.

We never closed the thing, it was a major maintenance problem, and only consumed space. Maybe if we had other people staying with us it would be needed, but that doesn't happen.

Hi Steve,

Actually the bedroom door is pretty easy to fix. If you remove all the screws along the bedroom side wall, along the top, that wall will fall away enough to get your arms back there to work. I hadn't had track issues with that one, but I did install an aluminum plate in there in order to hang a TV on that wall. I did reinforce the door stop block, like the bath/LR door to prevent a future issue though.

SteveH · 01-07-2014, 05:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Hi Steve,

Actually the bedroom door is pretty easy to fix. If you remove all the screws along the bedroom side wall, along the top, that wall will fall away enough to get your arms back there to work. I hadn't had track issues with that one, but I did install an aluminum plate in there in order to hang a TV on that wall. I did reinforce the door stop block, like the bath/LR door to prevent a future issue though.

Rich,
Your 30' must be different than our 31' was. I'm talking about the door between the bedroom and the hallway. It's hung from the aluminum ceiling only, and even with a carpeted block under the one end of it, and larger screws installed with red Locktite, it still came loose.

switz · 01-07-2014, 06:07 AM

The model 30 appears to have a pocket door on each side of the toilet area. The curb side pocket is between the shower and bedroom television. The street side pocket is between the fridge and the toilet area. Today or tomorrow I might actually see those components installed in our unit. There is a soft clear plastic strap with a button snap the goes around the exposed vertical edge of each pocket door to keep them stationary in the retracted position while moving.

dznf0g · 01-07-2014, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH

Rich,
Your 30' must be different than our 31' was. I'm talking about the door between the bedroom and the hallway. It's hung from the aluminum ceiling only, and even with a carpeted block under the one end of it, and larger screws installed with red Locktite, it still came loose.

Oh yeah, my bad...I do remember pictures of yours now. It is different than the 30'er.

Jammer · 01-07-2014, 08:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dznf0g

Hi Steve,

Actually the bedroom door is pretty easy to fix. If you remove all the screws along the bedroom side wall, along the top, that wall will fall away enough to get your arms back there to work. I hadn't had track issues with that one, but I did install an aluminum plate in there in order to hang a TV on that wall. I did reinforce the door stop block, like the bath/LR door to prevent a future issue though.

I have this problem too, was fixed once under warranty and the track has come off again.

Since I have a twin there are cabinets in the way but I'll try the 90 degree tool and also see if I can either remove the cabinets or get access to the wall screws with them in place.

Wingeezer · 01-07-2014, 09:52 AM

We have the pocket boors in our Classic 30 - bought use. Haven't had any problems with them yet, but I did notice that one door slides back in right flush with the walls - have to sort of pick it out - whereas the other door stops maybe an inch proud of the wall edge.

I assume there is a stop block or soothing that has come off.

Sound like quite a problem dealing with these doors if you have a track problem - although I do already own one of those ninety degree driver gadgets exactly as pictured.

I wonder if anyone has ever replaced the sliders with those folding concertina type doors?

We had one of those in our last RV - an Award trailer.

The only thing is I don't recall how much aisle space it took up when folded closed - not much I don't think, but could easily be perhaps 4-5" or so and I don't know how much of a problem that could be.

Something I would look into if ever encountering a problem with one of the doors.

The idea of cutting an access panel to work on the tracks sounds good, and I think if one were careful and made a decent removeable panel after. would not detract much from appearance.

Seems to me that even with the home made screwdriver device, working in that narrow slot to try to re-secure the track could be a pretty frustrating experience! Might be better with LED's attached to the device!

Kudos to those that have done it!

Brian.