2015 Flying Cloud 25FB

[moosetags]

This issue with the vents seems to be widespread enough that Airstream needs to do something about it. I am hoping that they will come up with a solution.

Brian

[jayseejay]

Just for an additional data point, we have not had any issue with our 2015 directional vents falling out or coming loose in the first 9 months of use of our 27 EB. The vents were installed as original equipment. Joe

[OTRA15]

Originally Posted by moosetags

[snip]
I did consider screwing the the vents to the ceiling and be done with it, but there is a problems with doing this. If I did this, the vents would no longer be adjustable as to direction and opening and and closing off.
[snip

Thanks, I wondered about that. If you used washers to separate the vent flange from the ceiling's inner skin, would that allow adjustments etc.? Or does the plastic from the moving part of the vent fit within the flange in such a way that there is no room for the screws near the outside of the circular flange?

Or maybe we are trying to put lipstick on a pig, as they say?

[moosetags]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Thanks, I wondered about that. If you used washers to separate the vent flange from the ceiling's inner skin, would that allow adjustments etc.? Or does the plastic from the moving part of the vent fit within the flange in such a way that there is no room for the screws near the outside of the circular flange?

Or maybe we are trying to put lipstick on a pig, as they say?

There just doesn't seem to be any way to attach the vent to the ceiling with screws without disabling the directional and closing off functions.

Brian

[OTRA15]

Where there is a will, there is a way!

So, does the entire silver face of the vent rotate as you adjust it? And is the center axle (which can you can see in the photo) the only thing holding the plastic base with tabs to the silver adjustable vents and trim flange?

Why not (if my assumptions are correct):
-- drill out the axle (is that a riveted connection I see?)
-- attach the two parts (silver and plastic) to each other with nut and bolt
-- detach two pieces
-- screw plastic sub-flange to the ceiling
-- attach silver face to plastic base with nut and bolt
[nut may have to be adhered to back of plastic somehow?]
-- or could you get one of those rivets which have internal machine threads, and rivet it to the plastic base, to receive the bolt from below?

Yeah! I am liking the way this is headed. Are we pointed in a workable direction do you think?

Peter

PS -- Or how about this Fred Flintstone approach -- wrap 1-3 layers of aluminum foil over/around each plastic tab sticking up, and jam the whole thing up into the opening?

Yabba Dabba Doo !!! ???

[switz]

This lack of attention to the curvature design of the ceiling versus a flat fixture being attached is not new.

Our 2014 Classic had the Fluorescent light fixtures installed cross frame. The are screwed tight to the ceiling even though they were designed for under a flat bottom a cabinet. This put a slight bend to the fixture the put pressure on the center of the plastic lens at each end. All of ours cracked.

I got the dealer to provide me with new ones. They wanted to install them and I said they were incapable of doing the job properly. I took them home and sanded a slight radius in each lenses edge on both ends so the lens matched the space available. The center of the lens was now a little shorted than the bottom length of the lens next to the ceiling.

Putting a 5" hole through a skin joint is just poor planning with this attachment design.

The only true fix is a new attachment plate cast with the ceiling radius and a slightly longer round shoulder to move the rotating louvers slightly farther away from the ceiling so it could remain flat.

Putting a doubler circle plate inside the opening would allow for screws to hold the fixture in place.

[Antique Pedaler]

Gorilla glue or 2-sided tape, the red backed variety used to attach the trim on GM pickups....seriously. I use both of these items often in my trailer.

Jay

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by Antique Pedaler

Gorilla glue or 2-sided tape, the red backed variety used to attach the trim on GM pickups....seriously. I use both of these items often in my trailer.

Jay

This is worth a try, but as someone said earlier, poor design to begin with. They need to be confronted about this one. How do you get to a sr. mgr. at AS and make them aware of this type issue? I was seriously looking at upgrading to a 2016 or 2017, 27' FC later this year because of the ducting primarily, but now I will wait for a fix...

[moosetags]

Originally Posted by OTRA15

Where there is a will, there is a way!

So, does the entire silver face of the vent rotate as you adjust it? And is the center axle (which can you can see in the photo) the only thing holding the plastic base with tabs to the silver adjustable vents and trim flange?

Why not (if my assumptions are correct):
-- drill out the axle (is that a riveted connection I see?)
-- attach the two parts (silver and plastic) to each other with nut and bolt
-- detach two pieces
-- screw plastic sub-flange to the ceiling
-- attach silver face to plastic base with nut and bolt
[nut may have to be adhered to back of plastic somehow?]
-- or could you get one of those rivets which have internal machine threads, and rivet it to the plastic base, to receive the bolt from below?

Yeah! I am liking the way this is headed. Are we pointed in a workable direction do you think?

Peter

PS -- Or how about this Fred Flintstone approach -- wrap 1-3 layers of aluminum foil over/around each plastic tab sticking up, and jam the whole thing up into the opening?

Yabba Dabba Doo !!! ???

Thank you, Peter. I think that this could be a permanent fix for this issue.

Brian

[moosetags]

Originally Posted by gypsydad

This is worth a try, but as someone said earlier, poor design to begin with. They need to be confronted about this one. How do you get to a sr. mgr. at AS and make them aware of this type issue? I was seriously looking at upgrading to a 2016 or 2017, 27' FC later this year because of the ducting primarily, but now I will wait for a fix...

I have had email contact with the Service Center and Customer Technical Support at Jackson Center, and have made them aware of this issue. Neither could offer any solution. I have had a much better response from the membership here on AirForums than the factory has provided.

I surely am not the only one who has contacted them about this issue. They seem to have the ostrich attitude of just sticking their head in the sand and hoping that it will go away.

Brian

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by moosetags

I have had email contact with the Service Center and Customer Technical Support at Jackson Center, and have made them aware of this issue. Neither could offer any solution. I have had a much better response from the membership here on AirForums than the factory has provided.

I surely am not the only one who has contacted them about this issue. They seem to have the ostrich attitude of just sticking their head in the sand and hoping that it will go away.

Brian

Yea, sounds like the same early response they had to the "oil canning" issue with the newer models when you shift weight in the kitchen area..."oh, your the first person who has mentioned this!" Yea, right....was the Forum where the quick solution was found....

Wonder if Patrick at Colonial knows who to call there at the factory to get some more attention? Seems the king of the dealers should get some ones ear? But, that just may be me trying to be logical...

[Mrjkq]

Brian, having a 2016 with the adjustable vents & no problems, I'm wondering if the early 2015 models were not as precise with the hole cuts for the air vents causing your change out not to fit correctly.

[RareStream]

Take the vent out, put a little dab of clear RTV on each tab, put vent back in roof. Never worry about them falling again.

This works.

[moosetags]

Originally Posted by RareStream

Take the vent out, put a little dab of clear RTV on each tab, put vent back in roof. Never worry about them falling again.

This works.

I like this idea as it will not require any modifications to the vent. If I did this, how difficult would it be to remove the vent unit, if necessary?

Brian

[RareStream]

Moderately easy. The clear RTV is very robust yet easy removed by rolling it. But, it hardly lets go on its own. It was a common trick back in the day to use a dab to keep your hubcaps on yet they were easily removeable.

Just put a dab on two or three tabs...the vents will stay on their own but you can pop them out easily by spinning them first to break the RTV seal.

[DoublTrouble]

Now that sounds like an excellent first choice!

[fpbender]

Very Timely! Have an appointment on Monday to install new revolving vents in our 2015 FC FB twin. I will have a tube of RTV with me.

We will also have all the trim on clearance lights, tail lights and scare lights warranty replaced since plastic chrome has turned dark brown.

When in Hilton Head over Thanksgiving holiday we were camped next to two Airstream.
A young couple came by and were excited to see us and said they had an Airstream on the other side of the campground.
Just happened to be the General manger of Airstream Jackson Center making their way to the RV Trade show in Louisville.
He may be a great contact for some of these issues. He was taken aback by the light trim.
I'll bet there is a market for Stainless trim for our Airstream!
Fred

[moosetags]

This morning I hit Wal-Mart early and picked up a tube of Clear RTV Silicone. I will first try it on the vents that have fallen most often. These are mainly inthe living room and bath. The vents in the bedroom have never fallen.

Where do you think that I will do the most good with the silicone? It has been suggested that I put it on the little plastic tabs. I am concerned that since these rub against the sharp aluminum edge of the hole when being inserted that the silicone will peel right off.

Brian

[OTRA15]

If the silicon really does a good job, you will not be able to remove a vent without bending/creasing the ceiling's inner aluminum skin IMO.

My Fred Flintstone suggestion to add 1-3 layers of aluminum foil to each tab is a purely mechanical solution which will incrementally increase the friction or "grip" of each tab, without risking the silicon "fix" which runs the risk of making the tabs permanently bond to the aluminum ceiling.

Try one of each maybe in the least visible location?

Caveat emptor?

[moosetags]

Thanks for the warning. Now, I am rethinking using the silicone.

Brian