2015 Flying Cloud 25FB

[moosetags]

Originally Posted by rmkrum

Uh, not a good idea. Please use another hose dedicated to 'utility' use and split it at the campground spigot. Keep sewer solution flush far, far away from potable water connections, even though the sewer solution has an anti-back flow fitting on it.

Can't be too careful, IMHO.


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I'm sorry. I don't get what you are talking about. How would you go about using the system without a hose splitter from the city water source.

Brian

[mefly2]

Originally Posted by KJRitchie

I too am concerned with tail dragging. I'm very careful to monitor entrances to gas stations and I'll approach slow and at an angle if possible or go to another station. I'm also concerned with road debris and rough roads. My waste and water tank shells hang pretty low.

Kelvin

Terribly important to have the TT level and not have trailer in a nose up / tail down attitude; we see that all the time when various RVs are heading down the road ...

[gypsydad]

Originally Posted by GLovedahl

Hey Moosetags, after reading your posts about the Sewer Solution, I ordered one today, along with the better sewer cap and a 25' extension. We're going down to Austin for a week later this month, and since I've never used the Sewer Solution I thought it might be a good idea to take the old sewer stuff along just in case I have a problem the first time. We've only spent three nights in Peggy Sue so far, so I still have a lot to learn. This discussion is fantastic. Now I'm contemplating 16" LT tires, but that might have to wait. Thanks for all the good info.

No issues on Sewer Solution...but really, Austin?? You need to be asking about which BBQ joint to visit...I like Rudy's, Franklins, and Salt Lick....fyi.

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by moosetags

I'm sorry. I don't get what you are talking about. How would you go about using the system without a hose splitter from the city water source.



Brian

Some on the forums have suggested using their potable water hoses to run the AS tank flusher and/or sewer solution flush connection and did not really understand how dangerous that idea is. Using a splitter at the campground faucet to feed the sewer solution and tank flusher from a separate hose is the safest way. Sometimes I'm not as clear as I need to be.

I also use a couple short hoses and an extra splitter at the end of my utility hose so I can switch easily between the two flushing connections. Those hoses and my utility hose are stored separately from my potable water hose at all times...


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[xrvr]

I think you misunderstood what moose tags said. Peace, jim

[Airtandem]

I have trouble with the one way valve and water turn off of the SS being in the way of the handle on the grey tank.

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by moosetags

I bought the light strip on Amazon. Here's the product description:



SUPERNIGHT 5m DC 12V RGBWW RGB+Warm White Flexible LED Strip Lights 5050 SMD 300LED Waterproof RGB Cool White LED Tape Light Kit With 40 Keys Controller And Power Adapter.



The cost was $29.99 on Amazon Prime with free two day shipping.



The light strip is 5.4 meters long which is exactly the width of the awning on a 25' Airstream. The strip is very flat and has a glue tape back. We installed it directly under under Lucy's rolled up awning in about 30 minutes. The effect is very impressive. The lights have numerous options for many lighting effects.



I guess we will see if the glue holds. Lucy will be headed to Jacksonville tomorrow along I-10 for 300 miles. I'll report from Jacksonville. I am anxious to see the effect with the awning deployed. I don't have enough room to deploy it at the house.



Brian

Brian - thanks again. I received the kit from Amazon and tested them on the reel - this is going to be great!

A few questions for you

1) the package says it's moisture and electrostatic sensitive. You applied them (permanently I assume) to New Lucy. They'll be exposed to rain and probably have been already - any concerns about that? They also seem to be encased in some sort of gel/plastic so I can't see how water would affect them...

2) looks from your pics like you put the plug for the remote towards the a-frame. When you're traveling, what do you do with the multi-wire plug at the end of the light strip? Do you have a cover for it or just leave it exposed?

3) the other end (toward your door) would have the female version of that multi-wire plug (presumably to string several together?) - did you cover that to keep rain out of it?

4) you might remember I got vinyl cling decals for my WBCCI numbers the first year we had the Tin Goat and unfortunately, they created a very ugly "corrosion" under the clear coat which even the mothership couldn't fix. It's not damaging anything structurally but it's a really ugly "scar". I worry that the stick-back tape might have the same effect. You probably wouldn't see it for months - but something to look for.

5) I'm wondering about a way to not put them up permanently (mostly for the concern mentioned above but also for exposure to water and wind on the road). Sounds like you had to re-glue the front end of the strip shortly after installation. Has it been holding up since then?

6) how did you ensure they were taped on so straight - I can imagine them drooping a little and wonder if you can pull them up and reapply if you find you're off a few centimeters...

It looks so good on New Lucy! I want to do the same with Tin Goat but was thinking of maybe inserting them in a clear hose I could hang from hooks - but that will probably never be as flat as sticking right to the trailer - and a pain to roll and unroll for use...

I will probably just tape them up as you did and definitely welcome your thoughts from your experience.

Thanks!

[moosetags]

Originally Posted by SteveSueMac

Brian - thanks again. I received the kit from Amazon and tested them on the reel - this is going to be great!

A few questions for you

1) the package says it's moisture and electrostatic sensitive. You applied them (permanently I assume) to New Lucy. They'll be exposed to rain and probably have been already - any concerns about that? They also seem to be encased in some sort of gel/plastic so I can't see how water would affect them...

2) looks from your pics like you put the plug for the remote towards the a-frame. When you're traveling, what do you do with the multi-wire plug at the end of the light strip? Do you have a cover for it or just leave it exposed?

3) the other end (toward your door) would have the female version of that multi-wire plug (presumably to string several together?) - did you cover that to keep rain out of it?

4) you might remember I got vinyl cling decals for my WBCCI numbers the first year we had the Tin Goat and unfortunately, they created a very ugly "corrosion" under the clear coat which even the mothership couldn't fix. It's not damaging anything structurally but it's a really ugly "scar". I worry that the stick-back tape might have the same effect. You probably wouldn't see it for months - but something to look for.

5) I'm wondering about a way to not put them up permanently (mostly for the concern mentioned above but also for exposure to water and wind on the road). Sounds like you had to re-glue the front end of the strip shortly after installation. Has it been holding up since then?

6) how did you ensure they were taped on so straight - I can imagine them drooping a little and wonder if you can pull them up and reapply if you find you're off a few centimeters...

It looks so good on New Lucy! I want to do the same with Tin Goat but was thinking of maybe inserting them in a clear hose I could hang from hooks - but that will probably never be as flat as sticking right to the trailer - and a pain to roll and unroll for use...

I will probably just tape them up as you did and definitely welcome your thoughts from your experience.

Thanks!

Thank you for your interest in Lucy's lights. I will try to answer your questions.

1. I installed Lucy's upper Led light strip (directly below her awning) using the two sided tape that came on the light strip. We did this several weeks ago, and have since made two road trips to and from Jacksonville (320 miles each way). Highway speeds and Florida downpours have not impacted these lights. The only issue I have had is that the leading edge of the light strip peeled back about an inch. I reattached it with additional two sided tape, and it has held so far. We have not yet seen any weather related problems.

2. As to the wiring, I install the converter and receiver when I am bout to use the lights. It takes about one minute to do this. I store this wiring and the remote in a small canvas tool bag that I keep in the curb side storage compartment. I have not been covering the little plug at the end of the light strip.

3. No, the rear plug is not covered either.

4. I will keep an eye on that possibility. I have not seen any evidence of any corrosion so far.

5. Yes, it is still holding thus far, but I will just have to watch it as the as the heat of summer and the heavy travel season come.

6. They were easy to get straight. There is a tape line of body protector that is applied under the awning by the Factory. It is body color and can't be seen unless you get up there on a ladder. I kept the light strip straight be lining it up to the edge of this tape.

As I have already stated in an earlier post. I have been a little disappointed by the effect of this lighting when the awning is deployed. When the awning is no out, it is great.

More recently, I have now installed a second strip of LED lights below Lucy's middle belt line molding. These start at the edge of her door frame and run forward to a point about half way around the right front curved window. The effects from this strip are great. I will take some photos of this installation later today.

Brian

[moosetags]

Here are some pictures that I just took of Lucy's new strip pf LED lights at her curb side belt line. I also took a few pictures of her inside the window accent lighting.

Brian

[SteveSueMac]

Thanks - very cool!

How does it look with the awning deployed - and - is there a reason you didn't put the belt ones directly on the belt?

Can't wait to apply ours!

[moosetags]

With the awning deployed, only the belt line lights can be seen. I put the bely line lights under the molding as I figures it would last longer there.

Brian

[fpbender]

Brian,
Did you change the location of your rear camera?
Fred

[moosetags]

Originally Posted by fpbender

Brian,
Did you change the location of your rear camera?
Fred

No, I still have it mounted to the bottom of the overhead cabinet above the dinette table. I am not really satisfied with the image through the window screen. I have not yet decided how and if to correct this.

I am thinking that I will wait until New Lucy's big trips to begin to get a little more experience with this set up prior to making a final decision.

Brian

[moosetags]

We have issues with the wireless rear view camera on Lucy. We have the Voyager Wireless System. We tow with two different tow vehicles. Mostly in the winter, we tow Lucy with our 2005 3/4 ton Suburban (Olivia). With Olivia, the camera signal on the monitor up in the cockpit is strong and steady. Our big trip summer tow vehicle is our 2011 Silverado 1 ton long bed (Fred). Fred carries our Outfitter pop-up truck camper. This towing configuration creates a situation where the camera reception is sometimes spotty and intermittent.

Even though we have one of the high end camera systems, I am finding that it is not really adequate for our current towing situation.

Brian

[KJRitchie]

I guess because its mounted inside the signal has to travel through too much stuff when towing with the Silverado/pop up camper. Maybe you'll have to mount the camera outside. Is there a repeater that can be added to keep the camera inside?

Kelvin

[moosetags]

I don't think that the camera being mounted inside is the only issue. This same Voyager wireless camera was formerly mounted on the outside of our 2012 Flying Cloud 23FB. We experienced the same issues with the two different tow vehicles, even with the camera installed on the exterior of the trailer.

I think that the density of the 8 foot long, 3,000 pound truck camper coupled with the 25 foot Airstream are just more than the camera transmitter can handle.

Brian

[Photobum]

Interesting. I have the same camera, towing a 25 FB with a Ford F150. No problems at all...the camera on the AS is external....and the two vehicle has a Caravan camper top, all metal!

[moosetags]

The camera works well to the Suburban, but when I throw the truck camper in the middle, the signal is marginal.

Brian

[Wayne&Sam]

I use the camera from rearviewcamera.com and it may be a solution for you. It uses a wifi camera (that I mounted to look through the rear window. The camera talks to a router placed in the front of the trailer, and my iPhone talks to the router. The iPhone displays the rear view. That cuts all the distances considerably. Works great for me!

[moosetags]

Originally Posted by Wayne&Sam

I use the camera from rearviewcamera.com and it may be a solution for you. It uses a wifi camera (that I mounted to look through the rear window. The camera talks to a router placed in the front of the trailer, and my iPhone talks to the router. The iPhone displays the rear view. That cuts all the distances considerably. Works great for me!

Thanks for this info. As we move into the heavy travel season, I'll be looking for options.

Brian