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Old 05-29-2015, 01:56 PM   #1
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2017 30' Flying Cloud
Spotsylvania , Virginia
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Took our new 23FB out on its first adventure

The Good, Bad and Ugly...........

Good: Got 17.2 mpg pulling with my old 2000 Dodge RAM 2500 diesel, the truck hardly works at all.

Bad: Took delivery of the unit in January of 2015, the unit was winterized so none of the plumbing could be tested. AS must pump in an anti freeze solution from the city water fill on the outside of the unit through the system. Before I left the house I pump a water/clorox mixture through the pump to flush the system. When I hooked up to city water we got nothing but anti freeze coming out of everywhere. We camped for 3 days and still had anti freeze residue in the pipes, nothing is nastier than brushing your teeth with anti freeze. I need to figure out how to pump a clorox mixture through the city water fill.

The damn tank gauges read all over the place and with the 23FB limited holding capacity I find this a PITA. And don't tell me these tank monitors don't work, I've owned 3 Keystone products over the last 15 yrs and their monitors were spot on.

The pressure relief valve on the H/W heater leaks when the unit is heating the water with 120V but not on gas. This creates a nice waterfall effect when sitting outside in the evening with a adult beverage under the awning. Don't have a clue what is causing this.

Ugly: Walking from the front of the AS into the bathroom you hear a load popping metal sound and the floor gives just before walking into the bathroom.

I called my dealer this past Monday and they can't even look at the trailer for 30 days.................and I paid over $60K to be treated like this ;-(

I have learned a few lessons with this purchase; I will never take delivery of another RV in the winter time and I am disappointed in the build quality of the AS.
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Old 05-29-2015, 03:23 PM   #2
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Just run fresh water through the city water connection and run each faucet until the anti-freeze is gone. The clorox mixture is for bacteria. City water usually is chlorinated and will do just fine for de-winterizing.
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Old 05-29-2015, 04:10 PM   #3
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Good news is the pressure valve is a 5 dollar part. The floor... I think I would continue me a laundry list of items, and then make a trip to ohio and have them really pour over everything on your list.

Hope this first outing doesn't put too bad of a taste in your mouth.
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Old 05-29-2015, 04:30 PM   #4
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i was about to buy this trailer, but now I will do more research.
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Old 05-29-2015, 04:50 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mimiandrews View Post
Just run fresh water through the city water connection and run each faucet until the anti-freeze is gone. The clorox mixture is for bacteria. City water usually is chlorinated and will do just fine for de-winterizing.
X2, spot on!
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:53 PM   #6
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With respect to the WH relief valve, Google water heater bubble. The link I had is broken, but there is supposed to be an air bubble in the tank to allow for expansion. I believe it is mentioned in the WH documentation.

When I de-winterize, my first stop is a local state park that has full hookups. I flush the water lines of anti freeze, then use clorox to kill the bugs, and then flush everything again. I fill and drain the fresh water tank three or four times to get that nasty bleach smell/taste completely gone. It gives me a chance to check all systems, too.
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Old 05-30-2015, 03:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KWN306 View Post
The Good, Bad and Ugly...........

Good: Got 17.2 mpg pulling with my old 2000 Dodge RAM 2500 diesel, the truck hardly works at all.

Bad: Took delivery of the unit in January of 2015, the unit was winterized so none of the plumbing could be tested. AS must pump in an anti freeze solution from the city water fill on the outside of the unit through the system. Before I left the house I pump a water/clorox mixture through the pump to flush the system. When I hooked up to city water we got nothing but anti freeze coming out of everywhere. We camped for 3 days and still had anti freeze residue in the pipes, nothing is nastier than brushing your teeth with anti freeze. I need to figure out how to pump a clorox mixture through the city water fill.

The damn tank gauges read all over the place and with the 23FB limited holding capacity I find this a PITA. And don't tell me these tank monitors don't work, I've owned 3 Keystone products over the last 15 yrs and their monitors were spot on.

The pressure relief valve on the H/W heater leaks when the unit is heating the water with 120V but not on gas. This creates a nice waterfall effect when sitting outside in the evening with a adult beverage under the awning. Don't have a clue what is causing this.

Ugly: Walking from the front of the AS into the bathroom you hear a load popping metal sound and the floor gives just before walking into the bathroom.

I called my dealer this past Monday and they can't even look at the trailer for 30 days.................and I paid over $60K to be treated like this ;-(

I have learned a few lessons with this purchase; I will never take delivery of another RV in the winter time and I am disappointed in the build quality of the AS.
Sorry to hear about the issues and understand frustration. First the anti freeze must have been a dealer winterization. Airstream blows them out with air and puts antifreeze in only the traps no toilet. The tank monitor should work (obviously)with the new see level monitoring system unless it is a pre2015 model.But even prior should be adjustable.
On the water heater before changing the pressure relief valve,try getting the air gap back in the water heater.The air gap let's the water expand ,without a gap the pressure will activate pop off valve. It can be re set by turning off pressure to system (make sure water in heater has cooled and not hot. Then open faucets and then open the pop off valve until water does not come out anymore.Close valve and faucets and pressurize system...gap should be restored. Dirt can also cause to stick but not as likely.
The floor popping sounds as if it maybe the underbelly which can be in need of a few more rivets.
Obviously not the best way to start out but can be addressed.
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Old 05-30-2015, 04:04 PM   #8
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I have heard the popping sound before in a new Airstream. Determine what the sound is- interior wall/floor or outside belly pan, etc., if at all possible and let them know it. It is true no matter what brand, check it out thoroughly. Hang in there and welcome KWN306!
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Old 05-30-2015, 07:12 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by mimiandrews View Post
Just run fresh water through the city water connection and run each faucet until the anti-freeze is gone. The clorox mixture is for bacteria. City water usually is chlorinated and will do just fine for de-winterizing.
I live on a well, everyplace I camp has a well, any other ideas?
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Old 05-30-2015, 07:17 PM   #10
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Typically the sound is the belly cover doing the 'oil can' sound. Seems to be on every trailer to some extent. I've heard of folks doing some adjustment by adding creases to the belly skin with a roller. Since it comes and goes, likely with ambient temps and a whole bunch of other factors I just ignore it.
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:23 AM   #11
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X2, spot on!
x3
and brush your teeth with bottled water-
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:25 AM   #12
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The floor sound is most likely the belly pan flexing. That is common. You might try tightening the stabilizers a little bit. Is the trailer level? A level trailer has less belly pan popping.
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Old 06-02-2015, 02:20 PM   #13
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After filling your hot water tank completely, you need to open pressure valve to release a bit of water. This creates a small air pocket at the top. This will allow the valve to work properly. Hope this helps you.


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