Around the World Airstream #6768

[66Overlander]

Well my plan to get the windows sealed up before getting back to the floor took as detour. I have invested dozens of hours trying to repair the curbside window that had been modified a loooooonnnngg time ago to fit a window air conditioner.

The sides of the window frame had been cut out to fit the A/C that obviously was wider than the opening. Half of the side T-Slots that were used to hold the window gaskets were cut out in the process of widening the opening. Then, some sort of caulk, sealant was applied around the window opening in an attempt to seal the A/C in. This caulk filled the T-Slots that were not cut out, especially across the top.

At some point before I got the trailer, the Window A/C was removed, but no real window gasket was ever put back in. The window leaked like a sieve, probably for decades and this caused many issues that have resulted in many dozens, if not hundreds of hours on my part to rectify. The leak caused galvanic corrosion and holes in the exterior aluminum skin at the wheel well opening below that required me to rebuild that wheel well opening (which I completed last year). It also cause floor rot behind the wheel well (which was part of why I had to replace the rear two sheets of floor plywood (also done). Yet to be rectified is the significant damage to the interior cabinet that was below the window (that will be dealt with before that cabinet is reinstalled and is possibly the only place I will not be able to repair the existing veneer).

Today's post, though, is about the reconstruction of the widow frame itself. From mid August thru most of September, I have spent dozens of hours cleaning he hardened caulk off the window frame and out of the T-Slots (example photo attached). What a pain! I have a at least a couple dozen hours invested in this task alone. I found that the only solvent that would soften and eventually help remove the caulk was denatured alcohol. Rubbing alcohol, mineral spirits, pain remover, Goo Gone, etc. did absolutely nothing. I made a couple of tools to help clean out the T-Slots. They were bent pieces of aluminum (photo of one attached) that I filed teeth into to allow me to saw into the sealant inside the T-slots. I also used a piece of a modified hack saw blade (no photo). After much trial and error, I found that he most effective technique was to soak a rag in denatured alcohol, then wrap it around my handmade tool, insert it into the slot, and rub it back and forth several times to wear away the sealant. Then sawing with the bare tool might remove a little more sealant. Then move to a clean spot on the rag and repeat . . . hundreds of times, much of it working over your head. But it worked. The T-Slots are now cleaned out (example photo attached). Yeah!!!

Next task was to rebuild the missing side T-Slots. When the A/C was removed, whoever did it had some skills. The rebuild the sides of the window frame that had been cut out to all the window screen to be reinstalled and seal out the bugs. I am impressed by that work. Unfortunately, they did not recreate the T-Slots. I was able to bend some aluminum into a L-shape and rivet it to the rebuilt side to recreate the missing half of the side T-Slots. It took some trial and error and much filing, to make the aluminum "L" pieces that are only about 1/2" wide and 1/8" tall, but I eventually got it. My gasket samples fit perfectly. I caulked the "L's" with Vulkem when I riveted them in place and will install the gaskets after I am sure the Vulkem is dry. I am attaching a couple of example photos of one side to the rebuilt window frame T-Slots (the other is similar), one temporarily clecoed in place with gasket samples tucked in and one finally riveted.

[66Overlander]

The next task is currently in progress, but I have no photos. I am replacing the glass in the curbside window sash that came off to allow the frame and sash itself to be repaired. The sash was cracked in one upper corner, so it is out to be welded at the moment. When the window A/C was removed, the sash was reinstalled, but the little nylon piece that located the window in the track so that it would not hit the sides of the frame when closing was never reinstalled. It is obvious that trying to close the window with the sash not aligned was what caused the upper corner to crack.

To get the frame corner straightened and ready to be welded, I had to remove the glass. When I removed the glazing strips, the glass was only barely held in place on one side. Just a little heat from a heat gun and it easily came off in one piece. Most of the (butyl?) glazing tape that was supposed to seal the glass to the frame had dried out and was no longer tacky. There is no way that window would have been water tight even with a rebuilt frame and proper bulb gasket in the T-slot.

I had also taken the front window sash off a few years ago as my test window for new glass. So after removing the glass from the curbside window sash, I turned to the front window. When I remove the front window glazing strips, the glass just about fell out. It was completely loose and had only been held in by the glazing strips. Part of the (butyl?) glazing tape had literally turned to dust, especially at the bottom. No water seal on that window either. Not good especially if the trailer is ever pulled in the rain. Luckily, no corners on this sash needed to be welded, but one upper corner had been previously welded.

It is now clear that the other 4 windows will have to be taken off and have new glass and glazing tape (and glazing strips) installed to make sure they are weather tight before the trailer goes out for it's first trip, but since it is stored inside, this can wait a while.

So this brings me to the current state. When I get the curbside window back from the welder, I will purchase new 3/32 (single strength) glass and install it in these two windows using new butyl glazing tape and glazing strips from VTS.

I had debated about going of to 1/8" laminated or tempered glass, but was convinced that the added weight was not likely good for the light weight sashes, especially their welded upper corners, so I'll go back with 3/32", just like the original glass.

I wish VTS sold the little nylon locators, since neither of these windows had them when removed (both had obviously been off the trailer before and I'm sure the locators were lost). I guess I'll just have to fabricate something myself. I try to remember to post a picture here when I do.

I am thinking about adding a fiberglass rock guard over the front window to protect that single strength glass. Many Airstreams on the ATWC had them (but not mine), so I think this would be an acceptable upgrade.

I know VTS sells a modern reproduction, but I'd rather put a weathered original on the trailer instead (example photos of both attached).

Does anyone know where I can find an original fiberglass rock guard? Hopefully it would still have all of the original hinge, prop rod, etc. components. Back in the day, some used a green corrugated fiberglass while others were white or tan. In some the fiberglass had a fluted pattern rather than the corrugated wave pattern. I'd be interested in any of these types. It just needs to be big enough to not interfere with the front sash, so that I can still open the window. My front sash is 42 3/4" wide and 21 3/4" tall. Thanks in advance for any leads you might have!!!!

Over and out 'til next time.

[goransons]

great solution on the frame repair! I was trying to envision it in my head but looks great in the pictures!

[66Overlander]

I have been too busy to post regular updates. I'll catch things up today. The curbside window had been finished.

Attached are photos of the bulb gasket and completed curbside window sash installed.

Then are photos of the welding repair on the back of the curbside window and a closeup of the glazing strip installed on the welded corner showing from grinding damage that the welder did while I was not present to watch him. (Note to self, be present to oversee the work if any other windows must be welded.)

Next are photos showing how I fashioned new nylon window locators from a dollar store cutting board. The original spacers were missing from both the curbside and front windows when I removed them, so I had no template to work from. It was trial and error to determine that they needed to be little curved pieces about 1/2" long. Once slid into place, a hole was drilled thru them and the original locating screw reattached. They work great. I carved a long enough strip to be able to eventually replace all 6 window spacers if necessary.

Finally are a couple of photos showing how I had to file down the new window opener from VTS to fit (along with an unmodified opener). All window openers on all windows had to be filed on the side the faced the window opening to clear the screen curb. The curbside opener (only) also had to be filed on the opposite side as well, because the location was slightly narrower due to the way the window frame was rebuilt after the window A/C was removed.

[66Overlander]

The front window was next. The big learning here was how to install the glass on the new butyl glazing tape. My first attempt resulted in the new glass prematurely adhering to the butyl tape in the wrong position and then breaking when I tried to pull it off.

After removing and replacing the mangled butyl tape and buying a new piece of glass, I decided that I could temporarily reinstall the glossy paper backer on the butyl tape on the window frame, which allowed me to set the large glass in place and slide it to the desired position without it sticking. When properly positioned, I was able to slowly peel the backer out from between the glass and butyl tape and then press the glass down to secure it in position.

I'll also attach a photo showing how I cut little test corners of the plastic glazing strips from VTS to make it easier to get the perfect angle on the corners of the real glazing strips as I cut and filed them to size and shape before installation.

Finally, is the front window and screen reinstalled.

One last note. I am glad I went with 3/32" (a.k.k. single strength) plate glass for the windows. The plastic glazing strips were hard enough to snap into place with this thickness of glass. Had I opted for 1/8" laminated or tempered glass, I am not sure my thumbs would have been strong enough to snap the glazing strips into place.

[66Overlander]

Last update for today. Since getting the two removed window sashes reinstalled, I have worked to level the floor, filling the recessed heads of floor bolts, smoothing uneven seams at plywood edges, etc. I have used Bondo General Purpose Putty for this purpose and will hopefully be installing the new floor tiles as soon as it warms up a little bit . . . maybe starting tomorrow.

I did temporarily set out down a few floor tiles to get a feel for how they will look.

IT SEEMS I CAN NO LONGER UPLOAD PHOTOS, BECAUSE "I HAVE EXCEEDED MY QUOTA". HOW DO WE RESOLVE THIS??????????

[66Overlander]

I was advised that I needed to make a "donation" to be able to continue to post photos. I did, so let's see if the floor photos will now post.

Attached are photos showing the leveled floor looking forward and rearward as well as the trial fit of a few floor tiles. The old part of the floor looks a little dark, because I had just got done wiping up the Bondo dust with a wet rag and it had not completely dried. The old floor is still darker than the new plywood, especially at the edges where I applied the penetrating epoxy, but it is not quite as dark as it appears in these photos.

I hope to actually start gluing down tiles tomorrow.

[66Overlander]

It took 3 days, but all the floor tiles are glued down (except for those that go on the box over the above floor black tank - still need to make a new one before I can tile it).

Following the advice of a friend, I put down all of the full tiles the first day. Cut the perimeter tiles to size and shape the second day, and glued the perimeter tiles down the third day (today). I used a traditional trowel for the main area of the floor, but used a smaller half moon trowel for the perimeter after I cut it into two pieces to make it easier to spread glue in some areas that were only about 2 1/2 inches wide.

BTW, I used Mannington Commercial Vinyl Composition Tiles (VCT) that I purchased a few years ago before the project got delayed, and recently purchased Mannington Commercial M-Guard V-11 VCT Adhesive. Interestingly, I recently discovered that Mannington stopped offering the VCT product this past June, so I cannot get any more matching tiles should I need them. Luckily I bought extra and have a box and a half left over for future repairs.

I did not tile under the black tank, nor bath tub, nor front gaucho for the following reasons:

1. There were no tiles in those places originally.
2. Those areas are not normally visible.
3. Tiling them might cause fitment issues when reinstalling the tub, etc.
4. The exposed plywood will make it easier to inspect for shell leaks.

It feels good to have the last item off the list that relies on warm weather because the prediction is that after this weekend the daily high temperatures will drop from the unseasonably warm low 70s to the 50s until they eventually go even lower as winter approaches.

I can do most of my temperature sensitive restoration stuff (example painting the inside of roof lockers or refinishing cabinets) in my garage or basement and can install them in the unheated storage unit where the trailer is stored.

[goransons]

It looks great Joe!!

[66Overlander]

It's been a while since the last post, but I've been working steadily, at least a few hours most days. I started the make the box to go over the black tank so that I can tile it soon, but I'll hold off on photos until it's complete. For now that project is on hold.

I decided to change focus and work on installing the new water heater, because I had to get that done before installing the streetside wheel well inner liner that would prevent me peeling back the inner skin to buck rivets. I've made a patch panel to close out the original water heater opening for the new smaller water heater and I bucked that panel and a new rib on the forward side of the opening in today. This would have been much easier before the new floor and inner skins were installed, but I got it done thru much contortion, rivet gun in one hand, bucking bar in the other, some rivets above the floor, some below the floor. The water heater itself will be installed soon, but it has only been test fit so far.

I also straightened the original water heater cover and made a panel to hold it that will be hinged and work as a door for the new water heater. This will keep everything looking original. It is just held together by clecoes right now, so photos are not worth posting. I am awaiting the stainless hinge and slotted screws that I ordered that should arrive by early next week, so I will wait for final assembly to post a photo or two.

[66Overlander]

My stainless hinge and slotted stainless screws of various lengths arrived, so I have the new water heater door mostly assembled from the old water heater cover. I am still awaiting arrival of the quarter turn fasteners that I will use to secure the door in the closed position. The door will not be installed until those arrive. The door also does not yet have a gasket. I will wait until it is installed to decide what type of gasket to use.

The door is unpolished, because the trailer will not be polished until everything else is done. By using screws (rather than bucked rivets) to assemble it, I can easily disassemble various peices for polishing if/when I get to that step. On the other hand, bucking rivets may have quickened the assembly process somewhat.

The biggest reason for choosing slotted screws, though, is that they appear more original than rivets would have. The original cover was screwed to the side of the trailer so that it could be easily removed if the original water heater needed to be serviced or replaced.

[66Overlander]

I've been busy working on the trailer almost every day since my last post, but there was not enough daily progress to warrant posting of photos. I have juggled a variety of projects. Here are a few updates.

I finally made the new Black Tank Cover and glued down floor tiles to it. Photos of the old and new covers are attached.

I continued working on the Water Heater. The Southco Series 82 Dzus Lion Quarter-Turn fasteners arrived, so I test fitted the door with clecoes so I could install the vibration isolating quarter-turn receivers. I then riveted the Water Heater in place, although I will now wait a couple of weeks for the Trempro caulk to dry before the door is finally installed, because the door gasket will lay across the caulk so it needs to be fully cured before the gasket can touch it. I found this out the hard way by trying to test fit different gaskets before the caulk was dry enough and made a bit of a mess with caulk transfer to the gasket samples. Trempro is slow curing at normal summer temperatures, so I'll give it plenty of time now that temperatures are mostly in the 30s and 40s. A few photos are attached.

I worked on a few other things, including some painting, but those tasks are not work the posting of photos.

[66Overlander]

My last post actually skipped the project that has occupied the majority of my time over the last few weeks . . a "heart transplant". Actually, the installation of a modern Atwood Hydro-Flame 7920 furnace completely inside the original case of the recall and explosion prone International Oil Burner 1525 Furnace.

This will completely hide the new furnace behind the original interior (below the stove) and exterior covers (photos attached). However, it required quite a bit of thinking, test fitting dozens of times, and engineering to figure out how to make it work. This task is still in process.

First I had to disassemble the original furnace and figure out what could be reused and what needed to be modified. I will not outline all the steps, but I had to cut the old heat exchanger, so that I could reuse it's outer surface to seal the furnace to the trailer skin. I then had to make closeout panels to close off the old openings before cutting a new opening for the the new furnace exhaust.

I also had to fabricate a new duct that would go inside the old furnace case so that the forward facing outlet on the new furnace could exit the old furnace case using the original hole to align with the original duct.

To be continued in the next post.

[66Overlander]

Continuing . . .
The rearward facing outlet of the new furnace could not be configured to use the existing rearward facing duct hole in the old furnace case, because there was only enough room for one internal duct, so the rear facing hole was converted to a fresh air return, aligning pretty well with the location specified in the Atwood Hydro-Flame installation instructions. A new exit hole will soon be cut and a new external duct will be fabricated to connect to the in-floor duct that runs to the rear of the trailer. I'll post photos of those steps when they are complete.

This thread is now "up to date". Signing off until next time.

[NevadaGeo]

Originally Posted by 66Overlander

As a few of my AirForums friends know, I am overdue to make an announcement . . .

Last weekend I bought a surviving Airstream from the Around the World Caravan, #6768, a 1962 22’ Safari. I picked it up near St. Louis, MO and pulled it back home to Michigan.

This Airstream is in rough, but amazingly original condition. It seems it sat in the woods for about 10 years before being hauled out last year after trees were cut to extract it.

The skin has a few dents and scrapes, but not too bad overall. All of the original appliances are still there (although untested), as are all of the original cabinets (with some water damage near the floor, but not too bad). There is one hole through the floor and quite a bit of mouse poo to be cleaned out. The only modifications I have identified so far are:

• One roof vent was missing and one was replaced by a galvanized steel cap
• Replacement rectangular tail lamps were fitted to it a long time ago (they don’t work).
• Carefree awnings had been added to the street side and rear window a long time ago. They are now “toast”.

Best of all, the trailer has a list of countries visited on the front curb side corner as well as stickers from some of the countries visited on the ATW caravan on the inside of the door within a door.

Here are a few photos taken before pulling it home . . .

I asked PeeWee (Dale) on facebooky if he knew of this trailer, he said he did some. He was in the Army during that tour though. " I have extensive documentation and letters regarding the tour. For individual trailers I have little knowledge, but I have some knowledge of this Airstream. I first saw the trailer in 2009 in Cape Girardeau, MO. Then my friend Joe P. purchased it from the person that had it at the Cape."

[66Overlander]

Originally Posted by NevadaGeo

I have extensive documentation and letters regarding the tour. For individual trailers I have little knowledge, but I have some knowledge of this Airstream. I first saw the trailer in 2009 in Cape Girardeau, MO. Then my friend Joe P. purchased it from the person that had it at the Cape."

This Around the World Airstream was not in Cape Girardeau in 2009. That was a different ATWC trailer, a 28' Ambassador bearing the WBCCI number 6472. The interesting tie in, though, was that the then owner of 6472, a guy named Bob, was the person that alerted me to the craigslist ad for this trailer. He was a big help in getting the deal completed, which took several weeks because of title issues. Bob eventually sold 6472, and it is now in Ohio being restored by it's current owner.

I too have a sizable collection of Around the World Caravan information, but would be interested to learn what you have in case you have something I don't.

[66Overlander]

Since I'm online tonight, I might as well post the latest photos of the furnace transplant. I worked out the internal bracing to secure the new furnace inside the old furnace case, then cut the new hole for the rear facing duct. I started to experiment with how to connect to the existing in-floor duct going to the rear of the trailer. The attached photo is just a first attempt mock-up in my garage. I really need to test fit the furnace back in the trailer to determine exactly how it'll all connect.

[dbj216]

Hello from Colorado: I stumbled on to this thread thinking it might be about 66 Overlanders judging your user name. I used to own a 66 Trade Wind and now have a 75 Overlander. I enjoy the vintage Airstream hobby.

Thank you so much for building this restoration thread of "Cramer", the 62 Safari. It reflects all the trials and tribulations of rebuilding one of these old trailers, especially how life gets in the way. We often say reassembly takes multiple times longer than the disassembly.

My 75 Overlander has rear end separation and needs some frame repair and modifications requiring a mobile welder. I am installing new holding tanks causing a relocation of cross members. I hope my frame repair project goes as well as yours.

David

[66Overlander]

Thanks David. Our first Airstream was a 1966 Overlander and I joined AirForums when we owned it.

Yes, reassembly goes slower, especially because I am reengineering things like tanks and electrical and water heater and furnace, etc, etc, etc. I probably spend more time studying and deciding what to do than the actual doing. I say everything takes me 10x longer than I initially think it should. That's ok, I only want to do it once.

[66Overlander]

Time for another update. I have worked on a variety of things since the last post, but have focused mostly on electrical. I refinished five of the six original interior lamps, but the bath lamp was so rusted that I refinished a nearly identical lamp from a 1961 Airstream instead. I have attached the shore power cord and installed the four lamps that attach to the interior skin and fiberglass end caps. The two other lamps attach to divider walls or roof lockers and cannot be reinstalled until those items are installed.

Attached are a couple of photos showing the four installed lamps working on 120VAC using 60W equivalent (about 8W actual) LED bulbs, which seem plenty bright given that the original 12V bulbs were only 25W. I cannot test the 12VDC portions of the lamps until I install a battery and/or converter, but those items will not be installed until the front gaucho goes in so that I know how much space I have to work with.

Oh, and you can see one divider wall edge molding (for the tub wall) that has been stripped and is clecoed in place. Five more yet to be stripped.