'49 Trailwind resto

[Flostream66]

Originally Posted by Disco Stu

Can anyone help with what that aluminium casting is on the front right? It can't be part of a water fill cap because there were no tanks, surely not a socket for the cable to the TV up that high? I've no idea.

Fresh water fill pipe - mine sits just to the left [street]side of the a frame.

[Bubba L]

Originally Posted by Flostream66

Fresh water fill pipe - mine sits just to the left [street]side of the a frame.

I agree with Flostream66. On our 55 we have the front fill but the original cap was shot. I found a ss Ford tractor radiator cap For $6 that fit perfectly. Back then a lot of Ford parts were used since Ford had the manufacturing facilities. My lock cylinder on our Bargman H20-2 door lockset came off a 1949 Ford Mercury trunk lock. Try finding one of those for a spare. Some also had the air jet by the water fill to pressurize the water tank. Good luck and stay safe.

[truckasaurus]

The end trim thingos went well, they're a little smaller than the factory jobs but near enough for me. I just cut the edges off the 2" square tube.

Looks great! Could I get the specs on that tube? alloy, wall thickness etc? I have to replace my rub rails and your approach seems smart. (now I may have to get a bandsaw...)

[MrRivet]

As stated the location of the casting does match the water fill inlet on 50-60s trailers where the water tank was installed on top of the subfloor. In all of my research I have not seen this in a late 40s Airstream yet. I have seen a front water inlet on a late 40s Curtis Wright Clipper with a front galley. It could be possible that a previous owner added a tank to this area and then later removed it? For whatever it’s purpose, I would guess it was an add on since the only systems located in the front of these trailers were usually the electrical fuse panel. Does it look anything like the casting at the base of this fill? This is on our 63 safari.
Tim

[Disco Stu]

Thanks all! Water tank filler thingy it is. That's exactly the same casting Tim.

'Saurus, It's 50 x 50 x 2mm, probably 5052?
I just cut it with a cordless circular saw.
Stu

[Disco Stu]

Just a half day in the shop this morning, the tubs are done.
They sit inside the flooring cutout, covering the edges of the Coosa board.
I love the look of the rounded tubs but that's not going to be practical in our fitout.

[Disco Stu]

What a fiddly job, seven hours.
I made some 2mm supports for the Coosa board and lino step out of leftovers from the wheel tubs. The belly pan section bent around the board ok and it's neat enough. Another little job off the list. This TW didn't come with a step, the whole thing was missing. Thanks very much to Tim for the photos of theirs to help me build one.
Airstream emblem or no?

[Flostream66]

Your Stu Step turned out great...but I'd give that step logo another think. Visually, it detracts from the workmanship and what's inside...IMHO...and I am pretty sure folks will know the brand of the trailer.

But if you feel like you just want a step embellishment, consider stripping off the blue paint...so that the AS logo is just faint [the irony of suggesting this subtlety to a man named Disco Stu with the Marigold orange flooring!?]

I have done something similar to the AS signs that were on my trailer when I bought her. They were removed and so I am working on a project that incorporates 1 or both of them. I've attached a photo of the work in progress...I've since sanded them with 0000 steel wool. The etched surface creates the coolest shadow effect, causing the AS logo to appear aged.

Whichever way you go, your TW is going to be a showstopper, Stu.

[Disco Stu]

Thanks Hollie, my wife wasn't super fond of the idea either.
Unfortunately the seller took our original Airstream emblems from both ends and the serial plate as well, replacing them with Steve's repros. I made my own 1947 style brass serial plate and experimented with etching one using hydrochloric acid.
I'll just live with the emblems I think.
Stu

[Ultraclassic]

Originally Posted by Disco Stu

.
Airstream emblem or no?

Emblem looks good, I like it

[Ultraclassic]

Originally Posted by Disco Stu

Thanks Hollie, my wife wasn't super fond of the idea either.
Unfortunately the seller took our original Airstream emblems from both ends and the serial plate as well, replacing them with Steve's repros. I made my own 1947 style brass serial plate and experimented with etching one using hydrochloric acid.
I'll just live with the emblems I think.
Stu

"I made my Own Brass serial plate" wholly crap Stu I am in awe of your workmanship, she looks awesome so far

[Disco Stu]

Thanks Mark!

I haven't achieved much lately, just little bits and pieces.

I was looking at our spare 1970 TW porch light, yep, the lens is a perfect fit in my 100NB medium wall pipe. I made a stainless light can using spares from or '70, and we have a back up light! I can always take it out but I like it. Otherwise I was going to store awning poles in there.

I cleaned up the front and rear windows, the seller did an awful job of replacing them so I'll have to do it again properly, no rush though.

I made and fitted a patch to cover the water filler hole, made some canvas covers for the chains.

The wheel tubs are in, cut to shape and fixed down.
It's going to stay lifted ( no drop axle ), the extra ground clearance is great and it sits dead level behind my car but there's a lot of fresh air going on around the wheels. So, spats? I think they'd look better. I have hundreds of photos of mainly TW but some Liner and Weewind but not many showing spat detail?
Can anyone help with photos?

Also, we took it for a good drive. It weighs 600kg ( 1320 LBS ). It floats over the bumps on the soft springs and I almost can't tell that it's behind my car with it's little 2.0L TD motor.

[Landshark]

Wow. This is just incredibly perfect work, Stu. Following with great interest.

Vivian

[MsRivet]

Just mad skills!

MrRivet has a few reference pictures for you. We plan on putting wheel well covers on ours as the original hardware is present but covers are missing. We hope to fabricate something close to original. He will dig for photos and send soon!

[Disco Stu]

Thanks Vivian.

And thanks Alice and Tim, you guys have been so helpful.
I can't wait to get stuck into the interior.

[Disco Stu]

Slowly slowly....

Today we ordered a Dometic Saneo CS cassette toilet, by making the factory closet a bit wider we can fit it in. There's still plenty of room to stand in front of the kitchen, I think it'll be ok. It's all marked out on the floor and the boss and I are happy with the layout.

The kitchen unit will be one piece rather than the two piece factory unit. A 95L Engel 12 / 240V fridge will sit on the right, it was ordered today. A sink will be in the middle and induction cooktop on the left ( I think ). There will be no hot water and no propane supply.

We met with a motor trimmer today about the horseshoe couch upholstery. I'll make a coosa board base for the couch base, and an aluminium panel for the back of the upright upholstery. We intend to use a thick tan coloured leather.

Tomorrow we'll organise the custom shape double bed mattress and try to organise registration.

Also, I fitted a handbrake. I don't really love the look of it or the jockey wheel but it's practical.

[57Vintage]

From the outstanding metal skills I've seen in your photos, I'd suggest you consider making your couch frame 100% from aluminum. I did it to save weight on the tongue since I had an oversized FW tank under it.



The majority of the curved pieces are 1X1X.062" angle, shaped with shrinker/stretcher tools. Uprights are 1X1" square tubing. The removable seat bottoms are .052 sheet with .75X.75" angle riveted underneath to stiffen and help center in the base frame. Seat backs are .032 alclad riveted to frame.

It comes apart in 6 sections. Each section is welded together. The bases are bolted to the inner walls and a few screws into the floor. The curved seat backs bolt to the bases to get them through the door. It bolts together with rivnuts and 8-32 machine screws. Its offset in the trailer due to hot water heater and other mechanicals under the street side.



I painted/cleared it this summer so the oxidation wouldn't stain the upholstery.

[Disco Stu]

WOW! Nice job 57Vintage.
That gives me plenty to think about. I was thinking of using sheet as a base rather than tube.
I like your idea of having a tank under the couch too.
Thanks very much!
Stu

[Disco Stu]

We have wasted a lot of time pushing poop up hill trying to get this thing registered, so I just gave in and I'm flipping the door. I hate to have to do this but I'm confident that it'll all go pretty well. Putting the window back in the other side will be easy I expect.

I made some new ribs out of two angles, shrinking with the shrinker and stretching with the wheel / flat anvil. Looking at the rib that I removed, I think it was hand made by bashing the material with a hammer over a curved form??

I cut a new step section out of the floor and cut the front off one of the chassis cross members. I know that the step will all go to plan because I just made one on the other side. The other step will be patched up and won't be seen under the kitchen unit and couch.

Also I made a quick door drip cap from some scrap, it went well enough.

So I guess we may have the world's only right-hand drive 1940s Airstream? Not that it's a good thing.

[dbj216]

Wow! Our governments in action. Next thing they will want is a surge brake on the coupler. The European specs are more demanding than here in the USA.
Once the authorities see the ride height, they will pull out a spec for that too.

There may be one other member of these Forums that could "flip the entry door" on an Airstream body. That is serious work. You are up to anything necessary to restore this old Trailwind.

Press on...

David