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Old 10-11-2020, 11:07 PM   #41
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1970 25' Tradewind
1975 25' Tradewind
1949 18' Trailwind
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I spent seven hours putting the chassis together today, all went to plan but I won't know if I've made any mistakes until the body is test fitted. I expect that the front and back edges of the blue RHS frame will be in the way of the belly pan sections, I'll deal with that when I get to that stage, I can't plan everything from the beginning.
Hopefully tomorrow it'll have wheels......
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Old 10-12-2020, 06:54 PM   #42
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Thanks for posting your progress on this vintage Airstream. Your 8 hours were well spent. That chassis looks a whole lot stronger than the one you uncovered and pulled out from your Trailwind. Yes, the proof is in the fitting of body to chassis.

David
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Old 10-12-2020, 11:28 PM   #43
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1970 25' Tradewind
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More chassis work.....

Another long day on the chassis with not as much achieved as I'd have hoped. I got all the plates welded to the big pipe, most of the cross members riveted to the plates, and I cut out the floor and test fitted to the chassis. It all looks ok at this point.
I borrowed my neighbour's forklift for a few hours so I could hang the whole thing from two slings, I could spin the frame 180 degrees with one hand. That made welding and riveting much easier.
It'd better be on wheels tomorrow......
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Old 10-13-2020, 06:42 PM   #44
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1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
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I would love to have some more details on the chassis construction. Looks like airplane designers designed this.

Are the cross members galvanized steel ? Or are they aluminum? What thickness?

How do the cross members attach to the center pipe and outer rails?
Are those rivets or spot welds? And the attachments are to flanges that are welded to the main members?

One way to get an idea of how the shell will fit is to compare the circumference of the floor to that of the shell. On my Safari, my floor was a little larger than the shell, I figured 1/2 an inch over 49 feet shouldn't be a problem - wrong. Maybe if it was 1/2 inch smaller. The Ambassador was 1/8" smaller and went together great.

Chassis looks great, it will be a shame to cover it up with a belly pan. Maybe you should have a clear plexiglass viewing panel down the middle along with some colored LEDs. Looking good.- Mark
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Old 10-13-2020, 09:19 PM   #45
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1970 25' Tradewind
1975 25' Tradewind
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Thanks Mark,
I'm pretty confident that the shell will fit as the new floor was traced directly from the old one, I'll find out soon.

I wish I'd used aluminium for the cross members to save weight, 2.0mm would have been good. I borrowed the idea of using those 3mm steel plates from Submariner's build thread. The 2.0mm galvanised cross members are fastened to the plates with 10 3/16 rivets on each plate.
The cross members weigh 5.5kg each, so that's about 60kg of weight added compared to the original design, with the heavier pipe and extra RHS in the frame, and the lighter Coosa board floor it's probably 100kg ( 220lb ) heavier overall?
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Old 10-13-2020, 09:36 PM   #46
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1970 25' Tradewind
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Another six hours on the chassis today....
First job was cutting up the old chassis and chucking it in the scrap bins.
I fitted the hitch using that little retainer for the nuts, there was no way I'd get a ring spanner inside the pipe to do them up.
The axle was test fitted, floor test fitted, so it's pretty much done.
Those front and rear sections had to come off, they're going to interfere with the belly pan too much. If I don't feel that the floor is well enough supported I'll add something later.
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Old 10-16-2020, 10:56 PM   #47
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Paint!

My fried spent his Saturday painting the chassis this morning, it's a shame that we'll only see a bit of drawbar and the rest will be hidden.
Monday, the floor goes down.
Thursday, Marigold Orange Marmoleum.....
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Old 10-17-2020, 11:51 PM   #48
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Disco Stu, the chassis looks great! Can you tell me what type of paint your friend used and the name of the color? Thanks.
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Old 10-18-2020, 10:32 PM   #49
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Hi Hollie, Here's a pic of the tin....
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Old 10-19-2020, 07:21 PM   #50
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Maybe you have the strongest 1949 Airstream "pipe" frames made. It sure looks stout, and much better than it came from the factory. And also heavier I'm sure, but who cares? You won't be pulling your Trailwind with your bicycle. Or maybe I'm wrong on that.

David
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Old 10-21-2020, 09:32 PM   #51
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Marmoleum Floor Day!

I'll weight it soon David, I should have weighed the old one before I cut it up, maybe I'll weight the pieces and get a total?

Anyhoo, today was Marigold Marmoleum day, it looks really good to us but might be a bit bright for some.
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Old 10-21-2020, 09:40 PM   #52
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That is so cool!!
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Old 10-22-2020, 04:59 AM   #53
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I too have thought about putting the marmoleum under the C-channel. Benefits are significant;
  • Easy to install, just cut along the edge
  • Great floor protection from water coming down the walls

The only downside I can think of and it too is significant is you have to be so careful of it from now on. Especially when painting the interior.

Seeing your work, I know you will do fine. - Mark
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Old 10-22-2020, 05:45 AM   #54
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Beautiful color. I have a very similar shade in our '72 Ambassador.
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Old 10-22-2020, 08:05 AM   #55
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I was tempted on the Salsa Red on my Caravel. I think it looks great. I'm a big fan of the Marmoleum under the C-Channel. Jerry
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Old 10-22-2020, 11:48 PM   #56
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Channel Day!

I started at 6:00 am this morn, got the channel all finished in about five hours.
It'll be loads stronger than the little factory tabs every 10" or so.
The channel is made from two 1.2mm angles stacked together, the outer / lower curved in the shrinker to match the floor shape, then the inner angle is cut every 2".
I didn't try the stretcher as it usually breaks aluminium, but I did a test using the english wheel with a flat anvil to stretch the inner angle. The curve was very neat but it's a lot of work and I was getting quite a twist in it.
Due to this channel being ( I think ) heaps stronger than the factory channel I don't think I'll need any tie down plates.
Anyhoo, pics as usual......
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Old 10-23-2020, 07:06 PM   #57
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That sure looks strong to me. Very well done. You have all the metal working equipment needed to make the job easier, or maybe possible.

The body has got to fit that masterpiece. I wait with baited breath for the "marriage of body to frame".

David
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Old 10-23-2020, 08:45 PM   #58
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Belly Pan Day 1!

Thanks David, I'm a bit nervous about dropping the body back on, that'll be as early as Monday I hope.

I started at 6:00am this morning after doing some more homework last night on how it's done ( Thanks Tim! )
Given that most of it won't be seen I used some 0.9mm aluminium that we bought very cheap, it's a bit rough but good enough. I'll use new material along the sides where it's much more visible.
I can't believe that it went on and met all sides neatly without the need for any darts or shrinking??
I wasn't looking forward to this job at all because I thought it would be difficult. I'll get the other end done tomorrow.....
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Old 10-23-2020, 11:17 PM   #59
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Beautiful work.

I read about restorations and enjoy watching... from a safe distance! It may not apply to a pipe frame, but more than once I have heard of the great "OMG it doesn't fit!" problem being cured by putting jack stands under the front and back ends of the frame. Seems the frame sags and stretches enough to make the "lid" not fit. Have the frame straight as an arrow and the body fits like a glove.
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Old 10-24-2020, 05:16 AM   #60
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Couple of questions if you don't mind; Did you have a template or make one for the two end sheets of the belly pan? And how did you cut all of those tabs in the front and back sheets? Hand shears? You have more patience than me. - Mark
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