Stupid Airstream Tricks

[Daquenzer]

Another idea: The black water and grey water valves are right behind the tires about 5’ on my 28’ International Serenity. Not sure why they don’t put some kind of guard around those valves. One blow out or big rock hits that plastic and the things will be shattered. Actually thinking of configuring something myself; or at least put mud flap on that side to keep the rocks of pummeling it.

[Ray Eklund]

- Having a front door with a rear hinge works great for someone who are right or left handed. The only caveat is that if your furnace is operating, the door when held open to the side of the trailer covers the exhaust for the furnace. This is only a problem in the Winter and you most likely will not have the door opened. Although the awning is...

- Move the hot and cold water drain valves towards a more accessible position, rather than behind the front right side tire. This includes the fresh water drain, which should be shielded from gravel impacts from the forward to towing direction. A solution would be to add some length to each with heavier plastic tubing, secure them, slip a protective plastic tube cover, from gravel impacts while traveling, with a tough pipe conduit.

- Install on the exterior of every Airstream a side to side level and a front to back level at the Factory. This should be done at a perfectly level surface with the trailer level. Doing it myself, it takes a bit of imagination as to what is level. When a pencil will not stay on the counter or table... it is not level.

- A Radio Antenna that can bring in a signal outside a major City. The radio is virtually worthless when in the Western USA away from a city smaller than Los Angeles. OK, maybe Kemmerer, Wyoming...

- The 23 Foot Airstream is the Number ONE trailer length and width for experienced Boondockers. The wheel and tires should be 15" at the least and 16" on ALL Airstreams as Standard, unless someone prefers 14" on the 23 foot and 15" on the other as a cheaper alternative.

- ALL Interstate batteries should be tested by the Retail Dealership BEFORE the trailer leaves the lot. I would estimate that more than 50% and up to 100% are Dead On Arrival from sitting on the lot for months. Only those with working Solar and AGM's will survive...if the Solar Panel is connected properly. Unlike my 2006 23 foot Safari when new off the lot. Dead Batteries and non connected Solar from the Factory.

[PKI]

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

-- snip --unless someone prefers 14" on the 23 foot and 15" on the other as a cheaper alternative. -- snip --

No one does. You got it right. Don't waffle. Pat

[az-streamer]

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

- ..

- Install on the exterior of every Airstream a side to side level and a front to back level at the Factory. This should be done at a perfectly level surface with the trailer level. Doing it myself, it takes a bit of imagination as to what is level. When a pencil will not stay on the counter or table... it is not level

While you wait for Airstream to install those levels you can try this: When you get to a new site, open the bathroom door 90 deg. If it stays out you are at least front to back level. If the door swings to the front or back you will know which way to adjust. Now open the door to 45deg. If it swings open to 90 deg or swings shut you will know the level is off side to side.. there are other ways to check but you don’t need any tools for this one.

[Ray Eklund]

AZ-Streamer... we share a trailer in common.

I will start a 'New Thread' on doing this process. I am about 95% or better at being level with my arcane method(s).

The shower door was the first thing I noticed. The second was the bathroom door. Your system will work. I think mine does as well. It would be nice if Airstream would just take five minutes and do it at the factory. Even though the planet is curved... Jackson Center is within the flat center of the planet, I understand.

[pteck]

Every AS with a round sink should have a cover patterned like this rather than a full cover. Much more functional.

[Wconley]

Every other cushion is held in place by velco or a snap....except the couch end cushion. So we added a tab and snap just like the other back cushions. Now this cushion won’t be on the floor every time we travel. (Sorry for the sideways iphone picture)

[thiel]

The most common aftermarket additions should be factory options. Frankly they could charge enough for them to boost their profit by quite a bit AND it would make Airstream customers happy:

-- better converter
-- real solar install (hundreds of watts, lots of amp hours)
-- better sound system
-- lift kit
-- different tires
-- TPMS

etc.

[SteveSueMac]

Include an Emergency exit door, not window, on anything 23' and up.

[Airtandem]

I have visually tried using the Emergency exit, and don t think L could make it. The only way would be head first and the distance to the ground would vary with the site. The window opening would also be too small due to the retaining rods that control the opening. There is also the distance from floor to window and having something to hold to to get out.
Good thought SteveSueMac!

[Airtandem]

A larger discharge valve on fresh water tank, that 1/4 inch doesn't t cut it. Also location.
On a previous SOB, the valve was same as on black and grey tank.

[Airtandem]

Back to Emergency Exit, I am surprised the FEDS haven't picked up on it. OSHA ?

[GMFL]

Originally Posted by Airtandem

A larger discharge valve on fresh water tank, that 1/4 inch doesn't t cut it. Also location.
On a previous SOB, the valve was same as on black and grey tank.

This one is nice. On my recent tank replacement due to a leak caused by trash Airstream left in the pan I both replaced and relocated my freshwater drain. Now my tank drain like it does not have Prostate problems.

Only thing I would want Airstream to do is clean up their work. LOTS of trash left in the trailer. My fresh water tank pan looked like they sweapt the floor down the access hole. There were no less than 50 bum rivets and pop rivet pins and just trash in there with the tank and that is what caused my leak.

[turk123]

Originally Posted by GMFL

Only thing I would want Airstream to do is clean up their work. LOTS of trash left in the trailer. My freshwater tank pan looked like they sweapt the floor down the access hole. There were no less than 50 bum rivets and pop rivet pins and just trash in there with the tank and that is what caused my leak.

Very common in the construction industry. Throw your half-eaten sandwich in a hole that will be covered up. Leave the nails, screws. sawdust for someone else to clean up. Of course, there is no-one else to clean up and it ends up under all the cabinets.

Then the dealer tells you we will completely clean the Airstream top to bottom. He then assigns that job to a seventeen-year-old who just started two weeks ago. They get the job done in record time.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by SeaLevel

Please switch to SmartPlug for the shore power connections. I never have to worry about scraping up my knuckles after installing these, and they make a much better connection.

http://smartplug.com/rv/

Put me in the group who's confused.
I'll agree that the SmartPlug is well engineered, nice looking, but it strikes me as a solution in search of a problem.
I have no difficulty with the conventional 50 amp plug and receptacle. True, I ditched the OEM power cord made from left over rebar, but that's not the plug's fault.

[SeaLevel]

Originally Posted by Mollysdad

Put me in the group who's confused.
I'll agree that the SmartPlug is well engineered, nice looking, but it strikes me as a solution in search of a problem.
I have no difficulty with the conventional 50 amp plug and receptacle. True, I ditched the OEM power cord made from left over rebar, but that's not the plug's fault.

I don't have any experience with the 50 amp connection, so I don't know if it's different. All I can tell you is that the SmartPlug is, as you stated, well engineered, and it does look good. It's also much easier to connect/disconnect than the older twist type connector with the locking ring. Plus the electrical connection is better, lessening the chance of the connector/cord overheating and melting. Once you've used one you wouldn't want to go back.

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by Airtandem

Back to Emergency Exit, I am surprised the FEDS haven't picked up on it. OSHA ?

*******
OSHA... I spent two years doing 'Safety Inspections' for OSHA. This covers the Employees, who manufacturer the Airstream. Need to keep Workman's Compensation costs... down, you know. Not the consumer. Much like 14" Marathon Tires... who is looking our for you? You.

You... need another government bureaucracy to listen. Trust me... the attorneys for Thor have already pounded this out with those who are out there to protect... the consumer.

How about buses with the escape hatch through the roof? How about a Cruise in the Atlantic and you need to get out of the room below the water line?

When does a tent require more than one exit?

When you begin to think about it... you are on your own.

[moosetags]

Originally Posted by thiel

The most common aftermarket additions should be factory options. Frankly they could charge enough for them to boost their profit by quite a bit AND it would make Airstream customers happy:

-- better converter
-- real solar install (hundreds of watts, lots of amp hours)
-- better sound system
-- lift kit
-- different tires
-- TPMS

etc.

I totally agree with all of these. I would add one more item, a better water pump. These are all things that should be standard equipment in a new Airstream. The the MSRP goes up a little, so be it.


Brian

[SteveSueMac]

Originally Posted by Airtandem

I have visually tried using the Emergency exit, and don t think L could make it. The only way would be head first and the distance to the ground would vary with the site. The window opening would also be too small due to the retaining rods that control the opening. There is also the distance from floor to window and having something to hold to to get out.
Good thought SteveSueMac!

Thanks. I thought about it so much, I had it done at the factory [emoji3]

It's probably not necessary but there was no way I was getting myself out that window if needed - especially knowing my wife and I would have to throw our 70# bloodhound out the window....it just didn't work for me.

There were lots of good thoughts in the thread on this topic including having 2 doors on the curbside so they both face the campsite - either way - I think 2 doors on anything 23 and above should be the design from the factory. Doing it after the fact was $7Kish - doing it when building would be a fraction of that (but they could still charge it - I'd pay [emoji3] ).


http://www.airforums.com/forums/f453...od-149123.html

[BigSxyWhtGuy]

Wow, no one put in the soft close toilet seat?

That should be an easy factory or dealer option. Maybe I’ll start my own business and focus on this mod? [emoji8]