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Old 11-06-2020, 01:38 PM   #1
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1999 34' Excella
Cinnaminson , New Jersey
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 158
Replacement lock for rear compartment 1999

Trying to find a way to fix this lock. The threads in the end that accept the screw to hold the cam on is stripped/worn out. Both rear locks have the same issue and the cam falls off. Eventually this will lead to the rear compartment door falling open in transit. I have tried epoxy and glue ect but eventually that doesnít work either. These locks are apparently obsolete and NLA.

Anyone have a way to fix it? Only fixes Iíve seen online are new door skin and new style lock. Seems extreme to do that but I donít really see any good way to replace it otherwise.

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Old 11-06-2020, 01:59 PM   #2
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2001 30' Classic S/O
Leander , Texas
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Try odmrv.com. I've gotten locks for my '01 from them.


John
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Old 11-07-2020, 04:47 AM   #3
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1966 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
1990 34' Limited
Cape Coral , Florida
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I drilled the hole for the lock, then used a step drill to eliminate the outside shoulder. I inserted a non-locking cam latch and reused the large offset inside "arm". I think the barrel was 1 and 1/8 in length to give me enough to catch threads for the inside nut. I chose non-locking because the cost to repair because a miscreant used a crowbar far exceeds the value of anything I keep behind the door.
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Old 11-07-2020, 05:15 AM   #4
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1999 34' Excella
Cinnaminson , New Jersey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TexAirS View Post
Try odmrv.com. I've gotten locks for my '01 from them.


John


Havenít had them in years they sold out of the replacement for this over 2 years ago
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Old 11-07-2020, 05:18 AM   #5
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1999 34' Excella
Cinnaminson , New Jersey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dieseleagle View Post
I drilled the hole for the lock, then used a step drill to eliminate the outside shoulder. I inserted a non-locking cam latch and reused the large offset inside "arm". I think the barrel was 1 and 1/8 in length to give me enough to catch threads for the inside nut. I chose non-locking because the cost to repair because a miscreant used a crowbar far exceeds the value of anything I keep behind the door.


Non locking is fine. Hell 75% of the keys in the RV industry are exactly the same anyway. I would love to see pics of what you did or show me some parts.

If Iím understanding correctly you drilled the cast piece out and then installed a new non locking mechanism with a new cam arm?
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Old 11-07-2020, 06:20 AM   #6
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1976 Argosy 26
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Two thoughts. JB Weld or got good welder friend to re-attach in fixed position? Next, I lost key to 76 Argosy FW water inlet door and locksmith friend made new key. On a side compartment door he replace lock, so locksmith may be able to fix or have additional remedy. Be Safe.
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Old 11-07-2020, 10:49 AM   #7
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The trick is to drill out the existing threads and increase the depth of the hole a fraction so you can use a tap set to create new thread landings for a slightly larger size screw before reassembly. You will most likely have to shorten the shaft length of the larger screw as they don't come short enough for this customized application.

FYI, the cheap pot metal will not bond sufficiently with JB Weld to withstand the latch pressure over time.
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Old 11-07-2020, 11:19 AM   #8
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1960 22' Safari
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Most of these locks are the same type used on mailboxes.

Home Depot has many sizes for little money.
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Old 11-07-2020, 12:26 PM   #9
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Fake News

Quote:
Originally Posted by Goin camping View Post
Most of these locks are the same type used on mailboxes. Home Depot has many sizes for little money.
Having made this repair a few times I feel compelled to point out that the second part of the above statement is true but the Airstream lock is NOT related to mailbox locks in any way as the Airstream lock casing is mated to the handle housing. None of the barrel locks Home Depot carries (or has access to) will mount correctly into the cast handle housing.

If you are unable to fix the lock mechanism the repair becomes a hatch door replacement with a whole new lock assembly, or placing a patch over the handle opening in the hatch door and then installing a new locking mechanism of whatever variety you choose as excellaf350 correctly noted.
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Old 11-07-2020, 01:22 PM   #10
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1989 25' Excella
Hershey , Pennsylvania
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I fixed mine the same way that Seemore proposed. Drilled out the screw hole and retapped the next size bigger ( I believe that was 10-32 but not sure). Fix has worked fine for several years now. Good luck with it.
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Old 11-07-2020, 04:24 PM   #11
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I put in a slightly larger screw. It grabbed maybe one thread. I put Gorilla glue on the screw threads, where the locking tab mates to the lock and on the screw head where it meets the locking tab. It's worked good for a couple of years so far.
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Old 11-07-2020, 06:43 PM   #12
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"FYI, the cheap pot metal will not bond sufficiently with JB Weld to withstand the latch pressure over time."

Sadly, another decision made by a bean-counter at Airstream/THOR to save a few bucks in the manufacturing of the trailer.

Engineer: This cheap pot-metal lock will not last the lifetime of the trailer.
Bean-C: Will it last until the trailer is out of warranty?
Engineer: Yes, the company that makes the cheap locks guarantees them for one year.
Bean-C: Perfect, Airstream will save a few dollars, if they break in the first year we get free replacements from the manufacture, after then no one will care except for the buyer of the trailer and by then his/her check will have cleared the bank

Even cast aluminum would have been better than pot-metal. The locks on my 1966 still work GREAT!!! So much for "improvements" over thirty years.

Enjoy,
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Old 11-07-2020, 08:33 PM   #13
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1999 34' Excella
Cinnaminson , New Jersey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeMore View Post
The trick is to drill out the existing threads and increase the depth of the hole a fraction so you can use a tap set to create new thread landings for a slightly larger size screw before reassembly. You will most likely have to shorten the shaft length of the larger screw as they don't come short enough for this customized application.

FYI, the cheap pot metal will not bond sufficiently with JB Weld to withstand the latch pressure over time.


I used 3M 2 part epoxy. Worked for about 2 years but now both of my locks did the same thing. The epoxy is a temporary fix.

Iíll try going bigger on the screw. Just afraid to go too big and mess it up royally lol
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Old 11-07-2020, 08:35 PM   #14
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1999 34' Excella
Cinnaminson , New Jersey
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 89Excella View Post
I fixed mine the same way that Seemore proposed. Drilled out the screw hole and retapped the next size bigger ( I believe that was 10-32 but not sure). Fix has worked fine for several years now. Good luck with it.
Ed


Iíll have to give that a try. I donít want to patch a new lock in and Iím not about to replace the entire door over a lock. I really donít even care if it locks just donít want the door to flip open in transit.
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Old 11-08-2020, 04:41 AM   #15
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2014 16' Sport
Yankton , South Dakota
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I had the exact same problem and worked on it for several months. I ended up carefully drilling out the hole larger. Then I used a tap and die to put in new threads. (I bought a single tap at Menards) using the right size bolt it came together perfectly. Reassembled everything and my lock works perfect.
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Old 11-08-2020, 06:03 AM   #16
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1966 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
1990 34' Limited
Cape Coral , Florida
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It's worth noting that the same lock was used on my 1990 as was still being used on my 2004. They enjoyed a good long run. Only the finish changed, from chrome to powdercoat.

The lock is in Florida and I'm in Illinois right now. Unless you have a 7/8 drill bit and a drill press I would suggest you take the housing to a machine shop to have it drilled out. Bits that large are expensive. I think I found the thumb turn cam lock at Camping World, but they are available on-line. I just relied on friction, with the nut on the backside tight, to hold the barrel in place. But, if it tends to turn on you I suppose you could put a dab of epoxy on the threads of the replacement barrel.
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Old 11-08-2020, 08:49 AM   #17
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2000 30' Excella
GTA , Ontario
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I had a similar thing, it was "previously repaired in its 20 year history" before I owned it.

I drilled it out, taped a new thread and a little loctite and fixed, took 20 minutes ( 15 of them finding a doner screw )Click image for larger version

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Old 11-15-2020, 11:43 AM   #18
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BALLWIN , Missouri
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loose screws

Clean up the parts, rough up parts, use J-B WELD Original.
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