Outdoor Shower Lock STUCK

[GoinStreamin]

We have a 2018 30’ Classic and the lock for the outdoor shower door won’t open. We have 6 copies of the correct key and all I can think of is that the interior latch device has probably rusted. Any suggestions of inexpensive, proven fixes would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

[Tater]

Push in on the lock area and see if it will turn.

Jim

[GoinStreamin]

We’ve tried that and lubricant. Thanks.

[Tater]

Have you tried gently tapping it as tou try to turn the key.

[Mollysdad]

I think I'd call a locksmith before I risked damaging that stainless door.
Rust on a 2018 lock?
Call me crazy, but I'd try all the other compartment keys, like the baggage door, the water fill, etc.

[Ray Eklund]

Originally Posted by GoinStreamin

We have a 2018 30’ Classic and the lock for the outdoor shower door won’t open. We have 6 copies of the correct key and all I can think of is that the interior latch device has probably rusted. Any suggestions of inexpensive, proven fixes would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

*****
- Did this key work previously? I have to assume it did.

- A locksmith would cost more than replacing the entire lock and key.

- Try the original key and put pressure towards the door. Have a pliers on the end of the key and try a little bit of leverage. Just enough, but not so much you bend the key is the idea. Torque. If the springs operating the tumblers within have a crust... this will break it loose.

- Do the above and pull the key OUT just barely and repeat. If that works, play with the key and lock assembly still in the door and just look it over. Hate to close it and it quits working... again. The flat latch inside the door could be a too snug. Press the door and compress the rubber gasket some... and try it again.

- Since you probably will not be using the outdoor shower, order a replacement lock and key assembly. Then drill out the center of the lock, start with a small drill bit, increase the diameter of the drill bit until these tumblers start coming out in pieces. Should be brass. You could have Calcium in the cylinder is my only idea.

- These locks are not the best and even inserting the key can bend a tumbler.

- If you are not going to be using the trailer for awhile, you drill it out and go to a locksmith and bring the whole unit. They can match it, or you contact the Airstream Dealer if there is one locally.

- These are not the smoothest operating locks when operating. Since I do not know what your tired... here is every option before I DRILL THIS DOG OUT and find one that is working smoothly before buying it. Have at least three keys that work. Test each one. Some may be off just a little and not work. How do I know? Guess. Good luck.

[GoinStreamin]

Thank you. The keys have all worked before. We may drill it out and replace with a turn latch only.

[GoinStreamin]

All keys have been tried and the original 6 keys all worked previously. Thank you.

[Ken G]

After an afternoon towing on a bumpy road the exterior compartment lock was frozen, no amount of force and wd40 would budge it. The sun was going down and we needed items inside to hook up is had no choice but to break the lock with a screwdriver. Upon inspection it seems that the pot metal cylinder is a very cheaply made piece that was susceptible to vibration. I'm still looking for a suitable replacement for this lock/latch. In the meantime I can latch the door but not lock it.

[Mikebrady62]

Originally Posted by Ken G

After an afternoon towing on a bumpy road the exterior compartment lock was frozen, no amount of force and wd40 would budge it. The sun was going down and we needed items inside to hook up is had no choice but to break the lock with a screwdriver. Upon inspection it seems that the pot metal cylinder is a very cheaply made piece that was susceptible to vibration. I'm still looking for a suitable replacement for this lock/latch. In the meantime I can latch the door but not lock it.

I really don't feel a need for a lock there anyway. There is lot more things I could worry about than having someone drain my tank or steel a shower head.

[SilverFire]

You may want to lubricate generously with penetrating oil (with narrow diameter wand) and let it sit for an hour or two. After breaking cam lock loose wipe off any excess penetrating oil off and re-lubricate lock with Tri-Flow lubricant with P.T.F.E. only.

Locksmiths specifically recommend not using WD-40 or graphite lubricants any longer. They recommend lubricating with Tri-Flow.

Good luck

[GoinStreamin]

Ditto...same here. I don’t need a keyed lock here.

[Mollysdad]

Originally Posted by Ray Eklund

- A locksmith would cost more than replacing the entire lock and key.

Well, yeah, but before he replaces anything, he needs the lock open.
The stainless shower compartment is a $245 item.
A locksmith is cheaper. Do it at your convenience, it's not like you can't move without the shower door open!
Give the screwdriver a try. Or a drill. Once you drill, a locksmith won't be able to help you.

[xyzabe]

Before you drill, try to locate a product call Houdini. It is what locksmiths use to unfreeze locks. I've used it on a neighbor's car which has been sitting in her back yard for over 5 years. She wanted it hauled off but they couldn't get into it to get it out of park (didn't want 2 groves through her manicured yard). I sprayed Houdini into the lock, waited about 45 seconds, put in the key, jiggled it and then was able to operate the lock.

I use it on the TT every 6 months to lube the tumblers. Never had one stick.

[SYC2Vette]

Mine was stuck (corroded) and replaced last year. Now the new one is stuck and I broke the key after lubing and fooling with it so drilled it out and now looking for a better replacement. I notice that many camlocks are indoor use only, so suspect that would explain why the oem is junk (not in any way weather resistant)..