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05-08-2016, 07:12 PM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member 
1972 31' Sovereign
South San Francisco
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 6
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Rear Frame smashes body
When I pull out of my driveway my rear frame scrapes and smashes. Y 1972 31' Sovereign. I read through the frame repair and torsion bar and height adjust sections of the site. I found info on repair work and I found info on suggestions but I can't find the the solution to this problem. I am convinced I overlooked the answer. Can someone show me where this answer is . Basically I'd like my frame to not smash my body work. I see one person with just a frame but and they don't have the bodywork on. My trailer is a working running trailer. Please I've really put some time in to solving this and I don't know solution and I can't find the answer here .
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05-08-2016, 07:58 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master 
2006 23' Safari SE
Biloxi
, Mississippi
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 8,278
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Raise the trailer or lower the driveway.
__________________
MICHAEL
Do you know what a learning experience is? A learning experience is one of those things that says "You know that thing that you just did? Don't do that."
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05-08-2016, 08:16 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master 
Currently Looking...
Walnut Creek
, California
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 3,951
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Use blocks/boards/plywood to reduce the driveway to street transition so the rear does not scrape. Slightly larger tires can help. Verify that the axle is not sagging and needs to be replaced.
Good luck. Pat
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05-08-2016, 08:59 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master 
1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
Currently Looking...
Benton
, Arkansas
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5,868
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I raised my 72 three inches, I hardly ever drag anymore.
Superat stultitia.
__________________
The fact that I am opinionated does not presuppose that I am wrong......
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05-08-2016, 09:00 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master 
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Newberg
, Oregon
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 1,045
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05-08-2016, 09:21 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master 
1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
Currently Looking...
Benton
, Arkansas
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5,868
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The word around the campfire is that drag wheels just make things worse.
Superat stultitia.
__________________
The fact that I am opinionated does not presuppose that I am wrong......
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05-09-2016, 12:45 AM
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#7
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1 Rivet Member 
1972 31' Sovereign
South San Francisco
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 6
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J.Morgan how did you raise your trailer?
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05-09-2016, 12:51 AM
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#8
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1 Rivet Member 
1972 31' Sovereign
South San Francisco
, California
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 6
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It happens in any driveway or parking lot. I was speaking generally. my trailer needs raised a couple inches at least. Can you tell me how to raise the trailer. This trailer specifically . Can you show me where the info is. That would be the solution. Please
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05-09-2016, 01:07 AM
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#9
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3 Rivet Member 
2011 27 FB International
Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 228
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http://dexteraxle.com/torflex_lift_kit
Get the serial # off the axel[s] then contact them to verify which kit for your airstream.
[assuming the axle is dexter, I've no idea on older airstreams]
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05-09-2016, 07:14 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master 
1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
Currently Looking...
Benton
, Arkansas
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5,868
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I used a piece of 3" angle welded to the bottom of the frame, but the kits mentioned above are bolt in.
Raising my trailer is one of the best mods I made to the trailer, I highly recommend a 3" lift.
I still drag on rare occasion, but even this rare drag is reduced in severity by a lot.
Superat stultitia.
__________________
The fact that I am opinionated does not presuppose that I am wrong......
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05-09-2016, 10:24 AM
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#11
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4 Rivet Member 
1967 26' Overlander
Spartanburg
, South Carolina
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mixedpuppy
http://dexteraxle.com/torflex_lift_kit
Get the serial # off the axel[s] then contact them to verify which kit for your airstream.
[assuming the axle is dexter, I've no idea on older airstreams]
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Older Airstreams like my '67 came with Henschen torsion axles. Dexter parts may fit right on them like the brake assemblies I put on mine some years ago. The original axles had a 3/4" wooden shim on each one, apparently to raise the trailer that much when new.
Even with the shims we had rear end drag and had to make it a practice to always cross driveways and intersections at an angle to prevent it. When we installed new Dexter axles a few months ago the problem mostly went away. It appears the 49 year old axles were sagging just enough to aggravate but I continue to approach intersections with caution and some I simply do not enter if I can't cross at an angle.
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05-09-2016, 12:36 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master 
1973 Argosy 24
Kitchener
, Ontario
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 945
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The axles have rubber torsion bands in them. Rubber is an organic compound that oxidises over time and no longer performs as intended. Just like tires, axles have a life expectancy. It as about 25 years under ideal conditions. As they age they begin ti sag and the elasticity hardens until the rubber is more like a hockey puck rather than a rubber band. Eventually the only suspension you have is provided by the air in the tires since the rubber axle has become solid rather than elastic. If you can be certain that there is no problem with the axle, the get a paving company to fix the ramp into your driveway.
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05-09-2016, 01:27 PM
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#13
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3 Rivet Member 
1998 34' Limited
Lawrenceville
, Georgia
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 218
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Most likely, as has been stated, you need new axles. If things are as I assume, new axles would raise it at least 3 inches. You can specify a greater "down angle" when ordering, which will raise it even more. Even if you did not have a dragging issue, there are other very important reasons to make sure your axles are good. Mainly a rough ride and bottoming out for your trailer to endure, which usually results in popped rivets. (more than normal)
There are dealers out your way which can help you with this. First go to Inland Rv's website and read up on how to determine if you have that problem.
http://inlandrv.com/articles/dura-to...xle-92001.html
Another very helpful source, but not west coast;
https://sites.google.com/a/colinhyde...ions.com/home/
There is also a dealer in Salt Lake that carries axles. Where you buy would depend on price/shipping etc. If they have never been replaced, they are probably toast. If they have been replaced before, then it's a matter of measuring etc. to determine their condition. If you can, post a good side photo of the trailer that shows wheels and wheel well. That will help with diagnosis too. Wishing you well.
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05-09-2016, 04:58 PM
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#14
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4 Rivet Member 
2003 31' Classic
Terra Alta
, West Virginia
Join Date: Jan 2015
Posts: 274
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Is the trailer level when hooked? If a little high in front will make a huge difference in rear. A thought.
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05-09-2016, 05:52 PM
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#15
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4 Rivet Member 
1973 31' Sovereign
Middletown
, California
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 424
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The easiest way to raise it would be a lift kit between the axle and frame. If I were to get new axles I would also get the ones with more down angle. The long Airstreams all are "Drag Queens"!
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05-12-2016, 08:45 AM
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#16
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Ready-to-Travel

2012 30' International
Walkerton
, Virginia
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,153
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Try setting your WD bars after you have left your driveway. This should result in the front of your trailer dropping a little and raising your rear just a little. Maybe that will be enough.
Pat
__________________
--------------------------------------
Somebody, please, point me to the road.
AIR 3987
TAC VA-2
WBCCI 4596
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05-12-2016, 10:09 AM
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#17
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Just an old timer...

2004 22' Interstate
Tipton
, Iowa
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 4,739
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A '72 Sovereign will have Henschen Dura-Torque axles, and presuming that they've not been replaced in the past ten years, they're shot and probably have been for twenty years. That causes a lot more issues than just frame drag and can lead to body/frame separation, interior separation issues, and rivets popping. You should be able to see tread in the wheel-well looking at the trailer straight-on from the side. If you can only see an inch of sidewall above the wheel, your axles are in fact shot.
You have a number of choices for new axles and several ways to mount them; all of which will require the services of a competent welder. Were I going to do it, I'd replace the current mounts with weld-ons that you can bolt the axles too such as Dexter offers. You have a choice of "down" angles that will all raise your trailer, as well as varying the height of the weld-on mount.
Do your homework here and elsewhere online on the various axle brands, and then work with the manufacturer or a local supplier to get the right axle and axle mount for your specific situation.
Good luck!
__________________
havin' to fix my broken Airstreams since 1987...
AIR 2053 Current: 2004 Airstream Interstate "B-Van" T1N DODGE Sprinter
Former Airstreams: 1953 Flying Cloud, 1957 Overlander, 1961 Bambi, 1970 Safari Special, 1978 Argosy Minuet, 1985 325 Moho, 1994 Limited 34' Two-door, 1994 B190 "B-Van"
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