How cold for winterizing?

[jcanavera]

Ipso,

Obviously things change from model year to model year so all many of us can do is tell you where these things are located on our trailer. As they say with automobiles, your mileage may differ.

The water heater is pretty clear in the fact that once you open the outside access door you will find a removable plug that when removed will empty the water heater.

Keep in mind that fresh water tank pickups will not drain a tank completely. Its very realistic to expect that there could be up to a gallon of water in the tank that the pump cannot remove.

That petcock drain valve is inboard of the curb side tires, between the two tandem axle wheels. It will probably be more behind the forward wheel than exactly between the tires.

Sounds like you did find the low point drains for hot and cold water. These sound more like plugs than screw type valves. I used to have these on my Hi-Lo. Its a matter of pulling up on them which opens the valves. Then you add some air pressure into your lines via a compressor. If you are outside after that point you will see any water still in the lines exiting from the bottom of the trailer via those valves.

If you can't figure this out I would strongly advise you to get your trailer to an RV dealer (preferably an A/S dealer) who can properly take care of this for you. From your description from what you have done so far, there is probably water still left in your system that can cause damage once you drop below freezing.

Jack

[j54mark]

It might be simpler to adopt first principles rather than try to decipher the factory manual - which will not take into account any alterations made by previous owners anyway.

You have to get the fresh water out of the system before it freezes. Period. A little water in the fresh or holding tanks is not necessarily a killer as it has the whole tank to expand into. A little in one of those tiny nylon (or whatever than stuff was that was used with polybutylene) valves will demolish it.

But Jack is right, it is not a good idea to rely on the pump to drain the fresh water tank. Even a gallon could end up in some crevice somewhere (remember, these tanks have baffles), and cause damage.

So, where are the drains? Right above the drain lines. They all protude through the tank pans somewhere. Fresh water out the side, low point drains out the bottom. My '85 appears to have had three drains at one time, judging by the holes in the pan. One hot water low point, one cold water low point, and ??? When I got the coach, there were NO low point drains at all.

Don't get confused by the condensate drain line from the air conditioner - it is unique in exiting directly below the wall, just about where the lower wrap meets the belly skin.

In re: water heater drains. The water heater may well have an exterior drain plug. My '85 also had a drain right next to the water heater tank, accessible through an exterior storage door.

Fresh water tanks and hot water tanks do not drain well without ventilation. Open the filler cap for the fresh water tank. Open the pressure relief valve for the hot water tank.

Mark

[ipso_facto]

Update -

I drained the fresh water tank after finally finding the drain for it (standing in front of the front wheel on the right side, looking behind it - not visible while looking between the wheels)

And I drained the water heater, the petcock for the drain valve is inside the storage compartment door.

And I made sure the petcocks for the drain valves under the microwave cabinet were open, the first time I didn't fully open them. It is written on them - pull and twist - counterclockwise to open. Okay.

That's all I am going to do for now, although I am contemplating if I should put a few gallons of that pink anti-freeze stuff I have into the fresh water tank, then open the faucets until it comes out.

[jcanavera]

Originally posted by ipso_facto
Update -

I drained the fresh water tank

Great news to hear! I knew if you looked hard enough you would eventually find things. Now did you blow out the water lines? If you did and used enough pressure to drive out all the droplets out of each faucet, sprayer, toilet, etc. you should be good. At the minimum you will need to get RV anti-freeze into the drain traps. For people paranoid like me, I used to take my shop vac, reverse the hose and actually blow air into the drain, effectively purging the water from the traps. Then I'd pour in my antifreeze.

The real question on pumping antifreeze through the freshwater tank is whether the tank is now dry or whether water left in the tank not drained will dilute the anti-freeze.

You also have to make sure that your water pump is either protected or is purged of water. Blowing air through the system will not take care of that.

Keep us posted!

Regards,

Jack

[ipso_facto]

Anti-freeze in the drain traps - check.

Now where do I get the compressor to blow out the air? How do I make sure the fittings are of the right size for that city water inlet?

[j54mark]

"Now where do I get the compressor to blow out the air? How do I make sure the fittings are of the right size for that city water inlet?"

An RV dealer will have a fitting with a schraeder valve made for just that purpose. The compressor is another matter altogether. I found a nominally 2 hp. oil-less Delta with two gallon tank at Lowes that fits below the wardrobe, allowing me to take it with me. In theory, it lacks sufficient capacity. In practice, it works fine.

Mark

[jcanavera]

Originally posted by j54mark
" The compressor is another matter altogether. I found a nominally 2 hp. oil-less Delta with two gallon tank at Lowes that fits below the wardrobe, allowing me to take it with me. In theory, it lacks sufficient capacity. In practice, it works fine.

Mark

I use a 12volt compressor, something you can find at Walmart. Note that this unit will not dry out the lines like the unit described above. That's why I pump antifreeze through the system. Too much chance of the dropplets not expelled to fall back to a low spot and freeze.

Jack

[ipso_facto]

I looked in Walmart but they ones they had were too big and lots of horsepower. I need to get the 12v compact one.

Also, I got that pink RV antifreeze, 6 gallons and put about 3-4 in the fresh water tank because I wanted to pump it through the system seeing that as the simplest solution. Problem is, my pump isn't working. And hasn't worked for the last few months, before the cold. I located it under the closet, it is running, getting warm but no water or anti-freeze comes out from faucets. (I have no problems when connected to the city water).

So my alternative is to turn the heat on. The suburban furnace turned on on the usual 3rd try. I am also running the catalytic heater I have right by the door. The inside temperature is close to 40F but at night it is supposed to drop to high teens, 7PM and already 30F outside.

the water pump thread here