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**jcanavera** · 08-07-2006, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by classic67

JP or Others,

Can you expand on this? Since coming home 2 and a half weeks ago, I have been plugged in 110 shore power, and the indicator hasn't budged. Though I am haven't been overly concerned only becuase the interior A/S indicator is merely 'one light bar' off of a full charge.

Just curious. When you turned on the monitor, it goes through a self check, lighting up all the LED's. Did you watch that to see if that particular LED lights up? I had one burn out on me and the manufacturer sent me a new unit under warranty.

Jack

Goin camping · 08-07-2006, 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevbo10

i have a 2005 international. everything works fine. well, two issues, that really are minor. the black water gauge never has really worked, and the clearance lights fogged up, till i bought the kit to fix them... i REALLY want a new Safari LS SE FB Queen in Beach Club interior trim... i don't think i'm helping here...

So did I. However the dealer only had midnight sun. We pick it up later this month.

classic67 · 08-12-2006, 08:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcanavera

Just curious. When you turned on the monitor, it goes through a self check, lighting up all the LED's. Did you watch that to see if that particular LED lights up? I had one burn out on me and the manufacturer sent me a new unit under warranty.

Jack

Hi Jack, thanks for the reply. The answer is yes. When the status check goes through it's cycle, it properly shows both of my LP tanks full (all lights on) which coincide with the guages on the tanks themselves - so all lights work fine. We just came back from a 4 day, 3 night trip and ran on 30a site electric the entire time (less towing time). Batteries still show at 7/8 level. When I have the A/S back at the dealer for the other items on our list I will also have them check the batteries and meter. I'm not too concerned bout it though. One camper recommended to us that we run on battery for a while to draw down the batteries levels and see if the gauge goes down. I haven't done that yet, but may try it today. Thanks again.

**jcanavera** · 08-12-2006, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by classic67

Hi Jack, thanks for the reply. The answer is yes. When the status check goes through it's cycle, it properly shows both of my LP tanks full (all lights on) which coincide with the guages on the tanks themselves - so all lights work fine.

I remember when I initially looked at may trailer for the first time and the battery had been exhausted by someone leaving on a light. It seemed like the first few months mine wouldn't show full charge either, unless I was plugged into shore power. It also was one light short of full charge. I just remember that suddenly one day I noticed that it began showing full charge, so I'm not sure what caused this unless it was exercising of the battery.

Jack

classic67 · 08-12-2006, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jcanavera

I just remember that suddenly one day I noticed that it began showing full charge, so I'm not sure what caused this unless it was exercising of the battery.

Jack

Well, I was out the entire afternoon and just got in. I didn't have a chance to run the batteries today. I was thinking both fantastic fans and some lights. How long will the bateries run these items at 7/8 of a charge before being brought down. Also, the water level on tha batteries are currently fine, is there any set time or amount of cycles that require a more diligent check on levels?

Thanks.

2airishuman · 08-12-2006, 06:46 PM

hi classic67....

the metering systems in airstream are well known...
to be inaccurate....
grossly or mildly....
but usually off...

when plugged into shore power..it should read full shortly.

if your led bar stops one short, either the led is defective, or the board.

regardless, the best way to evaluate your lead acid batteries,

is to get a simple cheap sp gravity hygrometer...
5$ at autopartstore...
wearing gloves, glasses and an old shirt...
check each cell
specific gravity relates to volts, which provides level of charge...
very accurate.

here is a link with the basics and a table...

most battery vendors have something like this....

if any cell isn't full, and your battery is new...
you may need electrolyte, NOT water...

if the cells are full when new, but slowly evaporate...
then add distilled water.

sp gravity is easy to check, keep the old shirt hand for spashes,
wear glasses, and gloves and rinse well after....

or just get agm batteries...no worries, no water, deeper discharges...more money!

cheers
2air'

and search here...there are loads of threads, some helpful, on batreeeeez...

**jcanavera** · 08-13-2006, 06:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by classic67

Also, the water level on tha batteries are currently fine, is there any set time or amount of cycles that require a more diligent check on levels?

Thanks.

You know I haven't been able to determine any set pattern with mine. I know a couple of times a season seems to be my norm. I think it may be proportional to the amount of time you spend on shore power. When the trailer is in use, I'm always on shore power, and usually a week before an outing and a week after when the trailer is home in the driveway. So based on my usage this season so far, I've had mine shore powered about six weeks total.

Jack

Pick · 08-13-2006, 06:55 AM

Quote:

if your led bar stops one short, either the led is defective, or the board.

That would depend on how that board is calibrated. At what voltage point is the last LED supposed to come on? 12.6 is considered fully charged, but the actual fully charged voltage will be higher. That can vary battery to battery. Is float charge set for AGM it may be higher than 13.2 volts. As you can see LOTS of variables here!

wheel interested · 08-13-2006, 07:20 AM

We had our old Classic on shore power perhaps too much of the time and the batteries boiled dry, our fault for improper maintainence (no water.) Had to replace the batteries. My question is if you put AGMs in shouldn't the converter be changed too?

2airishuman · 08-13-2006, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pick

That would depend on how that board is' calibrated.....As you can see LOTS of variables here!

there may me lots of variablles related to how the actual charge state is displayed on the led panel...

but the micropulse units are NOT customer adjustable on the battery or lpg calibration side...

so if either do not read FULL when full...then either the top led is defective or the unit is defective.

if calibration of the battery state (or lpg readings) are the issue, this defect if corrected by replacing the panel...removal and replacement.

most dealers cannot correct this defect without replacing the panel. even the factory fixes this by replacing the panel....

micropulse has a palmpilot os program available to dealers for $$. this allows them to quickly reprogram the holding tanks and freshwater...without filling and emptying....as we are instructed....i have yet to speak with a dealer who has purchased the palmpilot or software....but it has no recal for battery display or lpgas display....

now are these defective panels repairable? perhaps they can be sent to micropulse and reflashed or reprogrammed...i don't know.

as for the float charge setting for lead acid or agm batteries that may vary from by set up. but the factory units with agm usually have solar cells with a separate metering board and charge display.

my last micropulse unit never lit the top led for battery readings...even with the solar equipement showed 13.2volts or the peak 13.4.

i just replace the micropulse panel for the 2nd time...that is 3rd panel. this one does show full now....at full battery charge.

so i stand by my statement...the micropulse unit on newere trailers...has readings and calibrations that are commonly vague for fluids...

it is rare to find someone with a precise display.

and IF the micropulse unit doesn't display full for batteries or lpgas....then these energy sources are FULL....

either an led light is defective or the unit is defective.

it is easy enough to check specific gravity for the lead acid cells...and compare to the metering system.

cheers
2air'

2airishuman · 08-13-2006, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wheel interested

We had our old Classic on shore power perhaps too much of the time and the batteries boiled dry, our fault for improper maintainence (no water.) Had to replace the batteries. My question is if you put AGMs in shouldn't the converter be changed too?

hi carol

your previous classic was what year? not sure when the converter was upgraded, but the current converter is not supposed to over charge the batteries...even if plugged in all the time. so if that happened with proper battery care....the converter may have been defective....or you just for got the water....

now water can still evaporate and batteries can still boil (for other reasons)
but the myth circulated here that leaving 'em plugged into shore power...doesn't apply to the newer units...what year? you will need to contact a/s directly.

there are other reasons not to leave'em plugged.... shorts, surges, the desire to 'exercise' the batteries extended high voltages or low voltages and so on...

if you have lead acid batteries and they are active all the time...you will need to check the water level more frequently. plugged in or not.

now your question....no need to change converters on your unit if going to agm batteries...it is a 3 stage stepup already....

could you put in a converter with more features? sure....and if you are adding an aftermarket solar system...that might be a reason to change the converter...

cheers
2air'

wheel interested · 08-13-2006, 03:19 PM

Thanks. No we didn't check the levels on the 2005 and didn't add water. We were laboring under the misnomer that Interstates were maintenence free, interpreted by us that we needn't add water. MISTAKE

I don't remember if it was the Paralax 7300 or 7400. We may have had complications due to a bad cell that caused the converter to run higher full time because of never being able to draw the two together up to a full charge????

RossFam05BH · 08-22-2006, 08:31 AM

Hi Jameskk,

I'm think I am familiar with two of the problems you describe. We have a 2005 30' bunkhouse, and if the trailer sets for more than a month, the fan in the air conditioner locks up and will not spin. I'm getting pretty good now at dismantling the unit to get to the fan. A slight tug on the fan is all it takes, and the air conditioner will function perfectly until the trailer rests again.

The second problem I have encountered is the nonfunctioning black tank sensor. A month after receiving the trailer, the black tank sensor quit working; the monitor always registered full (red) even with an empty tank. I figured there must be a short someplace in the 4-wire telephone cable extending from the sensor to the monitor. Just by cleaning the male end of the telephone cable where it connects into the black tank sensor with a toothbrush (it was covered with road dirt and such), I was able to fix the problem quickly. I put on a dab of silicon on the sensor/telephone cable connection to seal the unit to avoid future problems.

I hope this helps? Good luck.

Paul