White Roof coating, would you do it again?

[SovrnScout]

Looking for input on a white roof paint/elastomeric coating for both sealing and heat rejection properties. If you have a NON-factory white roof, please post up camper, type of coating and age of coating, and your experiences/would you do it over?

Context: I'm renovating/full timing in a 34' 1985 sovereign in lower Alabama. Stripping and sealing the roof got me to thinking that lower Alabama = extreme heat + pop up storms and a white sealed roof mitigates both problems at once.
My 1985 owners manual says to re seal the roof with Kool-seal, and that is definitely the most available elastomeric coating out there. I'm a chemical engineer, though, and my instinct is telling me a combination of surface prep, primer, and an extremely tough urethane will get the longest lasting results. I've been eye-balling Imron 3500HG, or Interlux Brightside as they get stellar reviews. I'm just unsure if they are elastic enough for this application, or which primer is best. Do I even need a primer at all? Imron seems to claim it goes well over any reasonably prepped metal, and I'm not afraid of sanding this thing since 1985 is not exactly a collectible year and the interior is mostly gone

Oh and plasticoat is 95% gone other than a few awkward vertical strips.

[wahoonc]

I used Truco coating. I had some left over from a commercial project. I put it on about 10 years ago, sold the trailer, but it is still on their and working well.

Aaron

[SovrnScout]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

I used Truco coating. I had some left over from a commercial project. I put it on about 10 years ago, sold the trailer, but it is still on their and working well.

Aaron

That sounds like what I was hoping to hear, do you remember which coating you used?

[wahoonc]

Originally Posted by SovrnScout

That sounds like what I was hoping to hear, do you remember which coating you used?

Probably the 7140 or the 7140-FM, we had all of them on hand at one time or another. Given the time frame I did it that was probably what we were using.

Aaron

[The Twinkie]

On our 74 Trade Wind:
Removed all (what there was) of the clearcoat.
Wet sanded with 220 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper.
3M blue tape along the edge.
6 inch roller with broom handle....applied Rust-Oleum Aluminum primer then rolled Rust-Oleum Gloss white paint = looks great.
May need another coat though.
Gluck.

[J Ingersoll]

I was in the coatings business for 45 years and the Truco 7140 is the toughest flexible coating I've ever seen. Should adhere great to a clean surface.

[Jaxon]

I've used this product, Bus Kote, on both a previous Airstream and a Foretravel motor home we've owned. When our current Airstream needs a coating, will use it again. Excellent for roofs, sealing and insulating.

http://www.hytechsales.com/prod2150.html
.

[J. Morgan]

I used Imron 3500HG three summers ago. Today it is the same as I put it on, it is an EXCELLENT product.

No primer is required if you sand well, and it is plenty elastic enough to stick on aluminum for many years. I started using the stuff eight or nine years ago, no peeling, chalking, checking, or fading to this day.

It makes a huge difference in full sun, if I put one hand on the white and one on bare aluminum, I can bear it for a perhaps a second on bare aluminum, but indefinitely on the painted surface.


Superat stultitia.

[Caroyl]

Would you use this on a vintage trailer?

[Jaxon]

Originally Posted by Caroyl

Would you use this on a vintage trailer?

.
I used the Bus Kote on a ’67 Airstream Safari with excellent results.

[J. Morgan]

Originally Posted by Caroyl

Would you use this on a vintage trailer?

If I was going to camp in it I would.

If I was just going to admire it maybe not.


Superat stultitia.

[Lumatic]

I did my 71 with Ceramiflex (no longer available) Still good going on 10 years. I will also do my 93. It's a no brainer here in the southwest.

[flyerboy]

Originally Posted by J. Morgan

I used Imron 3500HG three summers ago. Today it is the same as I put it on, it is an EXCELLENT product.

No primer is required if you sand well, and it is plenty elastic enough to stick on aluminum for many years. I started using the stuff eight or nine years ago, no peeling, chalking, checking, or fading to this day.

J.Morgan,
I looked up the Imron and I've found Imron 3.5 HG+. Is this what you have used or is there really an Imron 3500 HG, or have they changed the name somewhat for some reason. The 3.5 HG+ has excellent properties from their Tech Data Sheet. I'm excited that there is such a "paint" that can be rolled, brushed or sprayed and can be recoated years later with minimal prep. Almost seems "too good to be true"!

[J. Morgan]

It is really good stuff.

I have used it fairly extensively.

IMO it is better, stronger, more forgiving, and cheaper than anything comparable paint including automotive paint.

Here is a link to some of the things I have painted with it.

http://s245.photobucket.com/user/JMD...hop/Imron%2035

<div style="width:480px;text-align:right;"><embed width="480" height="360" src="http://pic2.pbsrc.com/flash/rss_slideshow.swf" flashvars="rssFeed=http://feed245.photobucket.com/albums/gg64/JMD_LCMS/LR%20Shop/Imron%2035/feed.rss" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" /><a href="javascript:void(0);" target="_blank"><img src="http://pic.photobucket.com/share/icons/embed/btn_geturs.gif" style="border:none;" /></a><a href="http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/gg64/JMD_LCMS/LR%20Shop/Imron%2035" target="_blank"><img src="http://pic.photobucket.com/share/icons/embed/btn_viewall.gif" style="border:none;" alt="JMD_LCMS's album on Photobucket" /></a></div>

Superat stultitia.

[J Ingersoll]

Imron 3500 is a 2 part polyurethane paint similar to automotive. Very tough and nice looking but 2 coats is only 2 - 2.5 mils.

If the goal is to seal the seams and rivets the Truco 7140 is much thicker and more flexible. It actually is rubbery and goes on at up to 6 mils in one coat. It will show brush marks.

[J. Morgan]

Imho I think the main goal is to reflect sunlight to that it is not converted to heat. MOST leaks, (again imho) are around fixtures and vents, not seams.

A thick product application can be looked at as an asset or a liability. Over the long term a thicker application is not always the best.


Superat stultitia.

[featherbedder]

Isn't Imron toxic to lungs and must wear chemical respirator to apply I have sprayed on vehicles if did not wear respirator had problems for several yrs w/lungs also don't you need hardener with Imron or is Imron with hardener toxic. Yes it is good for many jobs but I would never use again. I sold Dupont paints yrs. ago so haven't any prob. with there prod. I've out of loop of painting for over 20 yrs. Q. asked because I'm not up to date.

[J. Morgan]

It can be rolled, no real hazard there.

If sprayed a pressure respirator pump system should be worn as outlined in the MSDS.

Some people do have a heightened sensitivity to the product, but it is my understanding that this is pretty much a non issue when it is not airborne due to spraying.

This is going to be the case with ANY two part urethane and actually most any activated or catalyzed paint.

It is my experience that an activated or a catalyzed paint is many times more durable than any paint that is not.

This paint will essentially never dry if it is not activated.


Superat stultitia.

[lsbrodsky]

Has anyone used GACO? I just had some home roof repairs done on a flat roof and that is what my roofer has been using for 14 years with excellent results. Two-part primer and one part application, two coats.

Larry

[AzAirstream]

I painted an airplane with Imron. READ the Cautions. It is not the spray/mist, but the chemical content the will ruin your liver. Very Dangerous without a full respirator.