Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 02-14-2011, 07:21 AM   #1
Rivet Master
 
robwok's Avatar
 
1964 26' Overlander
Richmond , Virginia
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 790
Images: 35
Interior Plumbing Vent and cap the outside?

I have a pretty vintage 64 overlander, in that just about everything is original - except the plumbing vents. I need to replace them. I was wondering though if anyone has considered using 1 way plumbing vent valves - such as are used in kitchen island sinks? (Air admittance valves (AAVs or Durgo valves) I put one in my old house because I couldn't tie into the cast iron pipe and it handled the sink and the dishwasher drains just fine.

Would it seriously detract from the value of a vintage trailer by replacing those exterior vents and just getting 3 squares of aluminum to patch the spots? It would avoid any rusting in the future, and would make the trailer more air efficient (by about .003% maybe)

Last, do I need to worry about trying to patch '64 era aluminum with something modern? Recommendations on getting an exact match?

Thanks,

Rob.
robwok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2011, 09:57 AM   #2
Rivet Master

 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
Images: 59
I wouldn't recommend this. If you use an AAV, air can get into the system, but gases can't escape.

An AAV works in your house because the system you are draining into has a main vent. This lets sewer and fermentation gases escape to the atmosphere. Without this vent, gases will vent by blowing the water out of your P-traps.

The correct aluminum to match the original is 2024-T3 Alclad, 0.32". It will not look llike your current skin because the skin has oxidized for almost 50 years. It will match if you polish the existing skin.
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2011, 10:42 AM   #3
Rivet Master

 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
Images: 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane View Post
I wouldn't recommend this. If you use an AAV, air can get into the system, but gases can't escape.

An AAV works in your house because the system you are draining into has a main vent. This lets sewer and fermentation gases escape to the atmosphere. Without this vent, gases will vent by blowing the water out of your P-traps.

The correct aluminum to match the original is 2024-T3 Alclad, 0.32". It will not look llike your current skin because the skin has oxidized for almost 50 years. It will match if you polish the existing skin.
OK, so I'm off a little on the aluminum. Probably best to use 0.032" thickness, rather than 0.32".

Here is how I did the vents on my '59. The vent is from VTS, the gasket material is fiberglas reinforced red silicone and the screens are a tea strainer, both from ACE or True Value.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Vent 005.jpg
Views:	147
Size:	61.9 KB
ID:	122276   Click image for larger version

Name:	Vent 006.jpg
Views:	160
Size:	59.0 KB
ID:	122279  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Vent 007.jpg
Views:	161
Size:	60.1 KB
ID:	122280  
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2011, 11:08 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
robwok's Avatar
 
1964 26' Overlander
Richmond , Virginia
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 790
Images: 35
that's just beautiful. thank you. and thanks for the feedback, the off gassing makes sense.
robwok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2011, 11:09 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
robwok's Avatar
 
1964 26' Overlander
Richmond , Virginia
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 790
Images: 35
where did you get the fiberglass silicone, and did you screw or rivet that on?
robwok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-14-2011, 12:27 PM   #6
Rivet Master

 
, Minnesota
Join Date: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,721
Images: 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by robwok View Post
where did you get the fiberglass silicone, and did you screw or rivet that on?
I don't recall. It may be cloth reinforced BUNA-S instead of silicone. Either should work. It comes in 6 x 6 sheets at your local hardware store.

Held on with SS screws. You should take apart every couple of years to check for blockage and refresh the gasket material.
markdoane is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
plumbing, roof penetration, valve


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
2004 Safari leaking around bathroom vent fan DJW Leaks - Weatherstrips, Gaskets, Caulks & Sealants 4 01-03-2011 04:12 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:20 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.