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12-03-2009, 08:35 AM
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#1
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Hedonistic Bohemian
2007 27' Safari FB SE
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 68
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Drip inside, how to find the leak outside?
My Airstream leaks. Not bad. I have a plastic cup attached to the ceiling via suction cup which catches most of it.
Trouble is, I'm just observing where it leaks through the inner skin seam. It could have leaked through in a bunch of places and drained over to this point - a vent, rivets, etc.
Observed drip is between rivets on this seam about 15" to the curb side of the center.
How can I tell where the leak is on the roof? Is there a procedure for this?
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12-03-2009, 10:36 AM
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#2
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Moderator

Vintage Kin Owner
...
, ...
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,676
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Hello Bohemian,
I would start by getting up on the roof. Often times the leak source can be identified by looking at the sealing surfaces around roof penetrations. A small hole, seam, or opening in a seal or sealant can allow the water in. So it pays to visually examine vents, AC, antenna, and any other openings on a routine basis. We make it a point to do a roof examination each Spring and Fall.
The other thing to consider is that water will travel the path of least resistance, so the leak may or may not origniate at the point you notice it inside.
A sure way to trace leak sources is with a pressure test. Here is a recent thread where a member did his own testing using a leaf blower and some ingenuity.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...highlight=Leak
You can also contact soldiermedic (Steve) as he provides this service as well, or there may be a vendor in your area who can provide this service.
Good luck,
Kevin
__________________
"One of the best lessons I've learned is that you don't worry about criticism from people you wouldn't seek advice from."
William C. Swinney
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12-03-2009, 11:06 AM
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#3
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4 Rivet Member 
1975 Argosy 24
Malakoff
, Texas
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 490
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Wrap an old blanket around a ladder.....go topside for
a close examination...if your trailer is leaning now, consider
the angle as you search for the offender
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12-03-2009, 12:07 PM
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#4
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"Cloudsplitter"

2003 25' Classic
Houstatlantavegas
, Malebolgia
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 19,552
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up on the roof..
This would be the first place I would look....
Black tank vent..
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
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12-03-2009, 12:29 PM
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#5
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Moderator

Vintage Kin Owner
...
, ...
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 11,676
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kennethowens
if your trailer is leaning now, consider
the angle as you search for the offender
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Good point.
Quote:
Wrap an old blanket around a ladder.....go topside for
a close examination...
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Which also brings up another point if you're not experienced working on your roof. To avoid damage when accessing and working on your AS roof, avoid walking on the end caps and stay on the rib lines when moving around. I use a couple of 18" square pieces of masonite for kneeling pads when working on the roof. They're lightweight, easy to move around, and help spread my weight out a bit.
Kevin
__________________
"One of the best lessons I've learned is that you don't worry about criticism from people you wouldn't seek advice from."
William C. Swinney
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12-03-2009, 02:15 PM
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#6
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3 Rivet Member 
2007 28' International CCD
West Hollywood
, California
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 141
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I heard that grey/black tank vents are susceptible for leaks because of how the Airstream shell flexes on the road while the vent pipes shake and move up and down.
After about 4000 miles of Fwy travel in a year...
I had leaks from both at grey vent and black vent, and from one of the skylight.
- There were occasional drips along the ceiling panel seams at right next to, and at both sides of, my grey vent, in my case.
- The curbs (or the aluminum frames) of the skylights are usually caulked very thickly with sealant at its outer seams (the junction between the curbs and the outer roof panels). The leak is more likely at the inner seams (where the domes and the curbs meet) or at one of the many screw holes. If you remove the skylight shade and the trims from inside your trailer, you can check if its leaking. You can stick your fingers (be careful, don't cut your fingers!) to the surrounding fiberglass mat and see if they are soaked with moisture.
Just sharing my experiences with my 1-year old trailer.
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12-13-2022, 07:53 PM
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#7
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2 Rivet Member 
Los Angeles
, California
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 75
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Thanks for the posts here ! 2022 GT and in the recent downpour we were camping and noticed a small leak in the bathroom ceiling. I suspect the black tank vent and will check next time I am out at it.
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12-13-2022, 09:07 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master 
2019 27' Globetrotter
McHenry
, Illinois
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,859
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Solved it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by r3z
Thanks for the posts here ! 2022 GT and in the recent downpour we were camping and noticed a small leak in the bathroom ceiling. I suspect the black tank vent and will check next time I am out at it.
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r3z, we had the same issue and here’s what I found: The 360 Siphon tank vent has a funnel that’s supposed to be glued into the top. Airstream just drops the funnel into the stack pipe which allows water to get around it then leak inside between the stack pipe and the body if they didn’t apply enough sealant.
Check out the thread here (Post #23, 24).
Three years later and never had the problem again.
__________________
2019 27’ Globetrotter FBT Walnut/Dublin Slate
2018 FC23FB
2019 Ram 2500 6.4 Hemi Laramie Blue Ox 1000#
WBCCI# 10258
RETIRED!
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12-23-2022, 10:13 AM
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#9
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2 Rivet Member 
Los Angeles
, California
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 75
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Thanks for pointing out that thread, jeffmc306!
I purchased 2 siphon 360s to have on hand and went prepared to inspect the ones currently installed. I found one installed properly (I can see the funnel connected) however the one above the leak we had was improperly installed. Not only was the funnel not attached but the hole is not center to where the base was bolted so I had to glue the funnel to the new siphon 360 at an angle to avoid any tension.
Another issue was one screws was tapped at an angle which adds tension to the base and won’t let it sit flush. I thought adding extra sealant is better than tapping a new screw but would love any feedback for next time.
I will use mineral spirits next time to better edge the silkaflex and use something to hold up the solar cables while the vent dries. For now I needed this to cure due to upcoming rain in the forecast for weeks.
Here are a few pictures and admit it was my first silkaflex job. I can only improve in the future from here. :^)
Pics are after the old vent was removed and new was installed.
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