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01-21-2014, 10:40 AM
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#1
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,660
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Ideas wanted for Classic bumper repair
For some time I have had a crack emanating from the rivets on the rear bumper of my Classic. I don't have a picture, but stole this one from a Robert Cross post from 2011....hope Robert doesn't mind, as my AS is in storage and covered in snow.
I am talking about the big rivets which attach the plastic end caps to the center fiberglass, and both to small frame member. It has always appeared that the rivets were:
1) actually holding the end caps down and "correcting" a wide gap between the two pieces (ie, curved like a bowl)
2) creating a lot of stress due to their high clamp load, stressing the plastic and allowing no movement between the parts.
I should've addressed this earlier, as the recent frigid winter has cracked the other side and caused multiple cracks on the original side.
Here is what I am thinking for a repair...looking for affirmation, pitfalls and suggestions.
1) drill out the old rivets
2) insert sheet aluminum between the fiberglass and the plastic with a coating of epoxy on the top surface, stabilizing the cracked plastic. This would also elevate the end cap edge and relieve the "bowl" effect.
3) use an Olympic rivet (maybe not even fully compressed with the rivet gun) with a rubber fender washer, topped with a stainless fender washer, between the end cap surface and the Olympic rivet head.
My thought is this attachment would allow for relative motion between the fiberglass center, plastic end cap and attaching angle iron. I think the Olympic rivet would allow for a bit larger hole and lessen the clamp load.
I hope this makes sense. Suggestions?
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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01-21-2014, 10:52 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,319
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Rich, Let us know how that works because I have the same cracks in the plastic around the rivets.
I know this is just a "patch" approach, but I was planning on filling the cracks with "Bondo" because it should stick to the plastic, level, and then paint (the paint has come off my plastic also).
__________________
Regards,
Steve
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01-21-2014, 10:58 AM
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#3
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,660
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Yes, it is a "patch" approach. As you know, replacement of the end caps is a pretty major job....one I'd like to delay until I fully understand this common failure and until I need to "rebuild" the rear area for best sealing and repair. I currently have no problems with the rear end leaking nor any structural problem. If this works (or something based upon suggestions here) we would then, maybe, learn how to "float" the rear bumper surfaces.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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04-03-2014, 01:19 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,660
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So I got most of this job done last night. Still need to find some matching paint and generally detail the repair.
I took a piece of scrap aluminum about 2" X 6" (just held it up to the bumper rivet area...no need to be precise), coated the top of it with JB Weld an slid it between the fiberglass center section and the plastic end wrap, while holding the plastic up with a screwdriver as best as I could.
Reassembled like a jigsaw puzzle making sure Epoxy filled the cracks. Where necessary, I used my fingertip to work epoxy into cracks.
I wanted to use the stainless bolts/stainless washers/rubber fenderwashers in all holes, but the rear ones are blind. I tightened the nylock nuts on the stainless bolts just barely snug to allow for relative motion between the center and end sections.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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06-02-2014, 04:53 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,319
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Rich,
Just wondering how your repair procedure has worked out.
I finally got around to working on mine, and my idea of the Bondo did now work out as it did not stick well to the plastic. I then filled the gaps with Goop because I knew it did stick well to plastics.
Then, since the center section was faded badly, and the paint was bad on the top of the side pieces, I decided to paint all of them, tops only.
After the paint dried, I used some stick-on non skid just for a way to hide the looks of the cracked plastic.
__________________
Regards,
Steve
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06-02-2014, 04:59 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,660
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That looks good Steve. So far, so good with mine, but not a lot of miles yet. Will still need to work on cosmetics, but the epoxy with aluminum backer seems to be solid.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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06-02-2014, 05:03 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2005 39' Land Yacht 390 XL 396
Common Sense
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 5,319
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Thanks Rich, it's a patch, everyone knows it, and it seems all of the classics of this age are cracked in that area. But, at least it's not quite so ugly, and I can live with that.
__________________
Regards,
Steve
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07-17-2014, 07:11 AM
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#8
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4 Rivet Member
2001 34' Limited
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 273
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Looking at both of your "fixes" makes me want to attempt to do something with our rear bumper. (2001 '34 Limited) We have the same issue, basically, the rear bumper is cupped upwards. Turning it into a water collection area.
Has anyone ever seen one of these bumpers removed and a "standard" stand out metal bumper put in it's place? I'm sure our rear bumper looked great when new, but now to me, it's just an eye sore, AND a potential wallet busting one at that!
I've been tempted to find an authorized body shop and get an estimate to remove the whole ugly thing and replace it, but if this is the way it's going to end up in another 5 years, that another tough pill to swallow.
__________________
2013 Ram Power Wagon 2500 4X4 5.7 Hemi
2001 Airstream '34 Limited
Hensley Arrow
Fulltime in 2013 and LOVING it !!
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07-17-2014, 07:34 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,660
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I suppose it could be done, but you'd lose the drawer storage, which I couldn't live with. IMO, the only reason the ends crack like that is the fact that they are riveted down tight in a stressed position and that doesn't allow for flex. I am not worried about the water collection on the center section, as the fiberglass is rolled up into a lip under the lower belt and cannot leak to the shell EXCEPT at the joint between the plastic ends and the center section.
So far...so good on any rear leak originating from the bumper. I had water back there and finally figured out it was from the awning wheel mounts and was running back there through the c channel.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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09-06-2014, 06:27 AM
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#10
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hang up and drive
2010 30' Classic
Carlisle
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 238
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Don't have any cracking myself yet, but I do have one of the large rivets beginning to back itself out by about 1/4". It still has great tension and I cannot pull or twist the rivet by hand, but I know it's only a matter of time before it breaks loose and I need to replace.
Has anyone sourced such a large diameter rivet?
__________________
Kyle
2023 Ford F350 Lariat 7.3/4.30 FX4 CCLB
2010 Classic Limited 30
ProPride P3-1400
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01-30-2016, 01:27 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2008 25' Classic
Full Time
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,309
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I'm Joining the Club
Went out to the trailer today and noticed my curb side bumper is cracked from the rivets. We had a couple on mornings below 10F a few weeks ago.
How is everyone's repair holding out?
I should probable drill a little hole at the end of the crack to prevent it from spreading until I figure out a repair or get it repaired by someone who knows what they're doing.
Kelvin
__________________
2008 Classic 25fb "Silver Mistress"
2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. Crew Cab, 4x4, Silver
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01-30-2016, 02:31 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,660
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Holding fine. No progression.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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01-30-2016, 03:05 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2008 25' Classic
Full Time
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,309
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Anyone know the procedure for removing that part. I guess the lower rub rail must be removed, then remove all the rivets holding the bumper cover?
Kelvin
__________________
2008 Classic 25fb "Silver Mistress"
2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. Crew Cab, 4x4, Silver
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01-30-2016, 04:01 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,660
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie
Anyone know the procedure for removing that part. I guess the lower rub rail must be removed, then remove all the rivets holding the bumper cover?
Kelvin
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Yes, and a few fasteners underneath plus the two in your pic. I won't remove mine unless replacement is needed someday. Then I'll use floating fasteners instead of rivets on top. I think they use screws under the rub rail.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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01-30-2016, 04:17 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
2005 30' Classic
Burlington
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
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Another Classic owner with the same issue! I've sort of being ignoring mine - probably for too long - because I wasn't sure there was much i could do.
Is the centre section fibreglass and the end caps plastic? I never seem to have much success with epoxies or products like JB weld on plastic, but it sounds as though your repair is holding up so maybe I'll give it a try.
I wonder if the whole works could be painted after to spruce everything up an hide the repairs - I know there are specialty paints for car bumpers & such.
On a related issue, the centre section of the bumper on our trailer has been very much dulle by UV I suppose.
I ca get it looking good again with products such as Armorall and the similar products, bit it a very temporary remedy.
Brian.
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell
2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
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01-30-2016, 04:22 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
2007 30' Classic
Oswego
, Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,660
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Yes, center is glass and ends plastic. Regular car wax will shine up the glass. Several applications will be necessary to remove heavy oxidation. Then it needs to he done about once a month to keep it dark and shiny.
__________________
-Rich-
"If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find you handy." - Red Green
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01-30-2016, 04:35 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2008 25' Classic
Full Time
, Texas
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 4,309
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I found the end parts for sale for $194 online at Airstream Supply. As long as the rub rail is removed might as well take the other side off and check the seal behind the rub rail.
Kelvin
__________________
2008 Classic 25fb "Silver Mistress"
2015 Ram 2500 6.7L Cummins. Crew Cab, 4x4, Silver
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08-22-2020, 10:47 AM
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#18
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2 Rivet Member
2006 30' Classic
Bullhead City
, Arizona
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 53
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Another project to work on...
Since there aren't too many posts addressing the cracked banana wrap bumper on the Classics I decided to jump in with my latest effort. It looks like Outdoor Mart is the only vendor with a replacement part and with freight it gets outrageously expensive as with many Airstream parts.
1. Here is where I started, missing pieces and cracks.
2. Rivets removed, cracks repaired with a soldering gun and rough sanded.
3. Small piece of original material cut from the banana wrap underneath 1"x6"
4. Fill-in pieces fabricated and welded in
5. I decided to fill in the rivet holes as the rivets are really needed more in the center of the wrap.
6. Ready for final sanding, prime and paint
7. Finished using a 1/4" nylon push-rivet where the center tends to bow upward.
8. For a great finish on the fiberglass center section, just wipe-on, wipe-off I use a product called Wet Wet
https://www.amazon.com/Purple-Slice-...2Aentries%2A=0
Instead of a soldering gun you might consider a plastic welding kit from Harbor Frt @ $16.
I have planned this project for over a year and found it much easier than expected. Good luck if you decide to try this.
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