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11-10-2008, 06:46 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master
1967 26' Overlander
Owings Mills
, MD
Join Date: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,125
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Flimsy bumper storage cover
As part of getting the Overlander to move, I pulled the rather flimsy bumper storage cover. I don't know about others, but I think the entire thing could be a bit more robust. I'm thinking of fabricating a new cover from heavier aluminum and trying to find an aluminum piano hinge... and better tie downs. If anyone has an improved design, please feel free to fere me to some photos. Thanks.
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11-10-2008, 07:21 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1999 27' Safari
Kent
, Ohio
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 806
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I just bought a 1989 soverign. It has a very flimsy cover on the bumper storage compartment also.
I had to take a double look at it. I thought it was felt paper for roofing at first
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11-10-2008, 07:41 PM
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#3
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4 Rivet Member
Graham
, North Carolina
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 276
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I don't have a solution yet, but I do have the same problem. Hope you or someone does find a good fix.
thanks for the post
Jerry
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11-10-2008, 09:15 PM
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#4
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4 Rivet Member
2003 22' International CCD
Whittier
, California
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 358
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Twofer Opportunity
When you decide to replace the wimpy cover plate over the bumper storage area, consider increasing the volume of that storage area at the same time.
My trailer is not available for a photo op, but here is a verbal description. After removing the existing lid & hinge, an aluminum box without a bottom was fabricated out of .08 inch thick sheet. The width and depth matched the opening of the bumper storage box without it's lid. A 3/4 inch return flange on all four sides provided the faying surface for mounting the box. Both rivets and silicon caulk were used. The height of the box was limited in my case to about 7 inches so as to stay below the heat exhaust vent on the rear of the 22ft CCD International. The lid for this box is the same sort of cover we get on a shoe box. A piano hinge attaches it to the box across the back and two latches secure it on the front side. A separate tab is used to provide for a pad lock.
This doubled the volume and allows for storage of all the stuff I use outside the trailer. This box weighed about 8 lbs. Very happy with the results and it looks like it came this way from the factory.
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11-10-2008, 09:16 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
North Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,421
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The lid on mine isn't sheet aluminum but, rather, a thicker piece of extruded aluminum and a full length piano hinge. I'll have to try and take a photo of it tomorrow. The think I dislike about it, is that it isn't water tight. After heavy rain, I get a fair amount of water in the bumper compartment.
__________________
Cameron & the Labradors, Kai & Samm
North Vancouver, BC
Live! Life's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death! - Mame Dennis
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11-11-2008, 06:08 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Tucson
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobkelly
When you decide to replace the wimpy cover plate over the bumper storage area, consider increasing the volume of that storage area at the same time.
My trailer is not available for a photo op, but here is a verbal description. After removing the existing lid & hinge, an aluminum box without a bottom was fabricated out of .08 inch thick sheet. The width and depth matched the opening of the bumper storage box without it's lid. A 3/4 inch return flange on all four sides provided the faying surface for mounting the box. Both rivets and silicon caulk were used. The height of the box was limited in my case to about 7 inches so as to stay below the heat exhaust vent on the rear of the 22ft CCD International. The lid for this box is the same sort of cover we get on a shoe box. A piano hinge attaches it to the box across the back and two latches secure it on the front side. A separate tab is used to provide for a pad lock.
This doubled the volume and allows for storage of all the stuff I use outside the trailer. This box weighed about 8 lbs. Very happy with the results and it looks like it came this way from the factory.
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So, it's just like an insert - that fits inside the original box but is 7" taller?
Sounds like a really neat idea. Can you share what type of place fabricated this for you? Just a metal shop?
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11-11-2008, 06:33 AM
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#7
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Site Team
2002 25' Safari
Dewey
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 15,616
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cameront120
The lid on mine isn't sheet aluminum but, rather, a thicker piece of extruded aluminum and a full length piano hinge. I'll have to try and take a photo of it tomorrow. The think I dislike about it, is that it isn't water tight. After heavy rain, I get a fair amount of water in the bumper compartment.
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Sounds like the one on mine. I get very little water in mine, maybe it's an Arizona thing.
__________________
Richard
Wally Byam Airstream Club 7513
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11-11-2008, 09:10 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1972 25' Tradewind
North Vancouver
, British Columbia
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 3,421
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That's exactly the same as mine, Richard. Thanks for posting the picture and saving me a trip outside in the pouring rain (must be a vancouver thing)!
The only thing missing from mine, is the little 'hold-open' to the right. When convenient, would you be able to take a closer picture of that? I'd like to see if I can fabricate something similar.
__________________
Cameron & the Labradors, Kai & Samm
North Vancouver, BC
Live! Life's a banquet and most poor suckers are starving to death! - Mame Dennis
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11-11-2008, 09:13 AM
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#9
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4 Rivet Member
2003 22' International CCD
Whittier
, California
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 358
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Funkill----Insert is a good description, but I didn't drop it into the existing cavity. Using the picture in post #7, the flanges on the bottom of the new box turn inward so they are not visible and rest on the top lip of the rear bumper and the top flange of the two longitudinal frame members. It was fabricated in a small metal shop in Newport, Oregon whose owner liked the idea of cooking up something a little different. The bead of caulking makes mine water tight around the base and the lid overlaps down the sides about 3/4 inches and makes it very stiff as well as water tight. Hope that helps
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11-11-2008, 09:20 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
Airstream - Other
2016 Interstate Grand Tour Ext
Bosque Farms
, New Mexico
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 7,030
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Our 67 also has a somewhat thicker cover, not flimsy at all. The only thing I did for it was to purchase a new piano hinge. (Get a marine-grade hinge from any of many online marine places.)
Lynn
__________________
ACI Big Red Number 21043
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11-12-2008, 06:05 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Tucson
, AZ
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,480
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Thanks for the details Bob. In your first post, I missed the "an aluminum box without a bottom" portion. Now I understand.
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11-12-2008, 08:27 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
2006 19' Safari SE
Tucson
, Arizona
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 4,627
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The bumper compartment on our Bambi is always taking on water when it rains or it gets washed. Makes me crazy. The box does have drainage holes in the bottom so it never stays too wet too long, but still...that's where we store our shore line electrical cord and surge protector so I'd rather it not get wet so easily. I have been thinking about putting some weather stripping around the underside of the lid to help keep water out, and then spraying the inside of the compartment with that rubberized tough-hide stuff like they use on pickup beds to help it better resist rust, etc... I think someone on the forums has done this coating treatment before...
__________________
TB & Greg and Abbey Schnauzer
AirForums #21900
PastPrez, 4CU/WBCCI
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12-15-2008, 01:03 PM
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#13
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3 Rivet Member
2005 22' International CCD
Woodland Park
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobkelly
When you decide to replace the wimpy cover plate over the bumper storage area, consider increasing the volume of that storage area at the same time.
My trailer is not available for a photo op, but here is a verbal description. After removing the existing lid & hinge, an aluminum box without a bottom was fabricated out of .08 inch thick sheet. The width and depth matched the opening of the bumper storage box without it's lid. A 3/4 inch return flange on all four sides provided the faying surface for mounting the box. Both rivets and silicon caulk were used. The height of the box was limited in my case to about 7 inches so as to stay below the heat exhaust vent on the rear of the 22ft CCD International. The lid for this box is the same sort of cover we get on a shoe box. A piano hinge attaches it to the box across the back and two latches secure it on the front side. A separate tab is used to provide for a pad lock.
This doubled the volume and allows for storage of all the stuff I use outside the trailer. This box weighed about 8 lbs. Very happy with the results and it looks like it came this way from the factory.
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Bob,
just saw your post here and think that is just the ticket for my trailer as well. great job! did you secure the box to the skin of the trailer also or just the bumper? if not, did you leave a gap between the box and the skin? if you ever happen to get pictures of the box please post. jk
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12-15-2008, 05:09 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
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Where is 2air.. There was a tread where someone did a 6 inch extension with the bumper and did a really nice job I will try and look for it. But I am no 2air.
__________________
Jason
May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..
2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
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12-15-2008, 05:11 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
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Hey, I had it book marked as I want to do this... here you go
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f477...ies-40691.html
__________________
Jason
May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..
2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
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12-21-2008, 05:31 PM
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#16
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4 Rivet Member
2003 22' International CCD
Whittier
, California
Join Date: Sep 2006
Posts: 358
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JK---When I get access to the trailer next spring, I'll post some pictures. For now, a thousand words or less. The box is not attached to the skin of the trailer. The flange on all four sides of the bottom of the extension is attached all the way around the perimeter. The opening at the top is narrower in the fore and aft direction than at the bottom. That is because the rearward most wall is vertical, while the forward wall rises parallel to the skin on the rear of the trailer, thus making the opening smaller. In structural terms, the extension is a cantilevered beam with its anchorage at the attach to the bumper. The air gap between the box wall and the trailer skin is approximately 1 and a half inches. Just enough so that when the lid is opened, it doesn't come in contact with the skin. Hope that helps.
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01-02-2009, 07:32 AM
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#17
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3 Rivet Member
2005 22' International CCD
Woodland Park
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 114
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bob and jason
thanks for the info. think i will be modding mine this summer. jk
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03-03-2010, 06:08 PM
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#18
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1 Rivet Member
1964 22' Safari
Albuquerque
, New Mexico
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 18
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It looks like for my 64 Safari , I going to have to fabricate a 58in long piece of aluminum. On my bumper there is a 2in oval opening for some kind of latch.. My question is what kind of latch fits this opening. It also had a little screw hole in the front side of the bumper. any help thanks.. Sandy
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