Flimsy bumper storage cover

[hampstead38]

As part of getting the Overlander to move, I pulled the rather flimsy bumper storage cover. I don't know about others, but I think the entire thing could be a bit more robust. I'm thinking of fabricating a new cover from heavier aluminum and trying to find an aluminum piano hinge... and better tie downs. If anyone has an improved design, please feel free to fere me to some photos. Thanks.

[mustang]

I just bought a 1989 soverign. It has a very flimsy cover on the bumper storage compartment also.

I had to take a double look at it. I thought it was felt paper for roofing at first

[jerrypeterma]

I don't have a solution yet, but I do have the same problem. Hope you or someone does find a good fix.
thanks for the post
Jerry

[bobkelly]

When you decide to replace the wimpy cover plate over the bumper storage area, consider increasing the volume of that storage area at the same time.

My trailer is not available for a photo op, but here is a verbal description. After removing the existing lid & hinge, an aluminum box without a bottom was fabricated out of .08 inch thick sheet. The width and depth matched the opening of the bumper storage box without it's lid. A 3/4 inch return flange on all four sides provided the faying surface for mounting the box. Both rivets and silicon caulk were used. The height of the box was limited in my case to about 7 inches so as to stay below the heat exhaust vent on the rear of the 22ft CCD International. The lid for this box is the same sort of cover we get on a shoe box. A piano hinge attaches it to the box across the back and two latches secure it on the front side. A separate tab is used to provide for a pad lock.

This doubled the volume and allows for storage of all the stuff I use outside the trailer. This box weighed about 8 lbs. Very happy with the results and it looks like it came this way from the factory.

[cameront120]

The lid on mine isn't sheet aluminum but, rather, a thicker piece of extruded aluminum and a full length piano hinge. I'll have to try and take a photo of it tomorrow. The think I dislike about it, is that it isn't water tight. After heavy rain, I get a fair amount of water in the bumper compartment.

[funkill]

Originally Posted by bobkelly

When you decide to replace the wimpy cover plate over the bumper storage area, consider increasing the volume of that storage area at the same time.

My trailer is not available for a photo op, but here is a verbal description. After removing the existing lid & hinge, an aluminum box without a bottom was fabricated out of .08 inch thick sheet. The width and depth matched the opening of the bumper storage box without it's lid. A 3/4 inch return flange on all four sides provided the faying surface for mounting the box. Both rivets and silicon caulk were used. The height of the box was limited in my case to about 7 inches so as to stay below the heat exhaust vent on the rear of the 22ft CCD International. The lid for this box is the same sort of cover we get on a shoe box. A piano hinge attaches it to the box across the back and two latches secure it on the front side. A separate tab is used to provide for a pad lock.

This doubled the volume and allows for storage of all the stuff I use outside the trailer. This box weighed about 8 lbs. Very happy with the results and it looks like it came this way from the factory.

So, it's just like an insert - that fits inside the original box but is 7" taller?

Sounds like a really neat idea. Can you share what type of place fabricated this for you? Just a metal shop?

[azflycaster]

Originally Posted by cameront120

The lid on mine isn't sheet aluminum but, rather, a thicker piece of extruded aluminum and a full length piano hinge. I'll have to try and take a photo of it tomorrow. The think I dislike about it, is that it isn't water tight. After heavy rain, I get a fair amount of water in the bumper compartment.

Sounds like the one on mine. I get very little water in mine, maybe it's an Arizona thing.

[cameront120]

That's exactly the same as mine, Richard. Thanks for posting the picture and saving me a trip outside in the pouring rain (must be a vancouver thing)!

The only thing missing from mine, is the little 'hold-open' to the right. When convenient, would you be able to take a closer picture of that? I'd like to see if I can fabricate something similar.

[bobkelly]

Funkill----Insert is a good description, but I didn't drop it into the existing cavity. Using the picture in post #7, the flanges on the bottom of the new box turn inward so they are not visible and rest on the top lip of the rear bumper and the top flange of the two longitudinal frame members. It was fabricated in a small metal shop in Newport, Oregon whose owner liked the idea of cooking up something a little different. The bead of caulking makes mine water tight around the base and the lid overlaps down the sides about 3/4 inches and makes it very stiff as well as water tight. Hope that helps

[eubank]

Our 67 also has a somewhat thicker cover, not flimsy at all. The only thing I did for it was to purchase a new piano hinge. (Get a marine-grade hinge from any of many online marine places.)

Lynn

[funkill]

Thanks for the details Bob. In your first post, I missed the "an aluminum box without a bottom" portion. Now I understand.

[TBRich]

The bumper compartment on our Bambi is always taking on water when it rains or it gets washed. Makes me crazy. The box does have drainage holes in the bottom so it never stays too wet too long, but still...that's where we store our shore line electrical cord and surge protector so I'd rather it not get wet so easily. I have been thinking about putting some weather stripping around the underside of the lid to help keep water out, and then spraying the inside of the compartment with that rubberized tough-hide stuff like they use on pickup beds to help it better resist rust, etc... I think someone on the forums has done this coating treatment before...

[JK3500]

Originally Posted by bobkelly

When you decide to replace the wimpy cover plate over the bumper storage area, consider increasing the volume of that storage area at the same time.

My trailer is not available for a photo op, but here is a verbal description. After removing the existing lid & hinge, an aluminum box without a bottom was fabricated out of .08 inch thick sheet. The width and depth matched the opening of the bumper storage box without it's lid. A 3/4 inch return flange on all four sides provided the faying surface for mounting the box. Both rivets and silicon caulk were used. The height of the box was limited in my case to about 7 inches so as to stay below the heat exhaust vent on the rear of the 22ft CCD International. The lid for this box is the same sort of cover we get on a shoe box. A piano hinge attaches it to the box across the back and two latches secure it on the front side. A separate tab is used to provide for a pad lock.

This doubled the volume and allows for storage of all the stuff I use outside the trailer. This box weighed about 8 lbs. Very happy with the results and it looks like it came this way from the factory.

Bob,

just saw your post here and think that is just the ticket for my trailer as well. great job! did you secure the box to the skin of the trailer also or just the bumper? if not, did you leave a gap between the box and the skin? if you ever happen to get pictures of the box please post. jk

[purman]

Where is 2air.. There was a tread where someone did a 6 inch extension with the bumper and did a really nice job I will try and look for it. But I am no 2air.

[purman]

Hey, I had it book marked as I want to do this... here you go
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f477...ies-40691.html

[bobkelly]

JK---When I get access to the trailer next spring, I'll post some pictures. For now, a thousand words or less. The box is not attached to the skin of the trailer. The flange on all four sides of the bottom of the extension is attached all the way around the perimeter. The opening at the top is narrower in the fore and aft direction than at the bottom. That is because the rearward most wall is vertical, while the forward wall rises parallel to the skin on the rear of the trailer, thus making the opening smaller. In structural terms, the extension is a cantilevered beam with its anchorage at the attach to the bumper. The air gap between the box wall and the trailer skin is approximately 1 and a half inches. Just enough so that when the lid is opened, it doesn't come in contact with the skin. Hope that helps.

[JK3500]

bob and jason

thanks for the info. think i will be modding mine this summer. jk

[Mr. Pasquale]

It looks like for my 64 Safari , I going to have to fabricate a 58in long piece of aluminum. On my bumper there is a 2in oval opening for some kind of latch.. My question is what kind of latch fits this opening. It also had a little screw hole in the front side of the bumper. any help thanks.. Sandy