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Old 04-12-2014, 05:02 PM   #1
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Drag wheels instead of steel drag bars under bumper?

Has anyone removed the steel rear drag bars with a wheeled drag.
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Old 04-12-2014, 05:39 PM   #2
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Mine are smashed and ground to nubs. Thinking of remaking them. I personally think wheels are an exceedingly bad idea.
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Old 04-12-2014, 06:13 PM   #3
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When the drag bars are worn out, that tells you they did their job.

Replacing them is the best thing to do.

The worst thing to do is install drag weels.

Most every time someone has done that, they will damage the rear quarter panels when the trailer rides the wheel or wheels, the very first time.

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Old 04-12-2014, 06:33 PM   #4
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When the drag bars are worn out, that tells you they did their job. Replacing them is the best thing to do. The worst thing to do is install drag weels. Most every time someone has done that, they will damage the rear quarter panels when the trailer rides the wheel or wheels, the very first time. Andy
I agree with Andy.
I bought a 77 Soveriegn with drag wheels installed. One wheels was broken and both rear quarter panels rear crushed. I removed and replaced the axles which increased the ride height by 3-4 inches.
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Old 04-12-2014, 07:58 PM   #5
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Personally I try not to drag my tail. So far I have done it once.

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Old 04-12-2014, 09:36 PM   #6
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Drag wheels instead of steel drag bars under bumper?

For a trailer made to "boondock", Airstreams sure ride low.

I try not to drag too but when even many gas stations are too abrupt,,,

Well, I am raising mine 2 or 3 inches when I get new axles.

I have a little land in the south of the state that I want to be able to park on someday.

I agree about the wheels. The wheels will imply license to drag, and cause a person to get careless.

I think I want magnesium drag plates....

Yep, those would be awesome!
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Old 04-13-2014, 07:16 AM   #7
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I am not an engineer... at least not a certified one

However I would surmise that the wheels create a point load that puts stress on a specific place. The skids spread the load out over a wider area reducing the chance of damage.

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Old 04-13-2014, 07:22 AM   #8
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There are plates you can get that will allow you to raise the axles and getting a shorter trailer always help.

Perry
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Old 04-13-2014, 09:05 AM   #9
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Is there just one style? Just curious as neither of my trailers have them and I'd like to add some on the 33'er when I build the new chassis. I'm picturing a handle shaped loop of steel bar bolted or welded on but thought someone might have a picture to hand.

On snow skis for the twin otters we used to add 1/4" Tyvar and steel bar on to the surface before they went out to cut down on damage, maybe something designed to wear away would help?
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Old 04-13-2014, 09:13 AM   #10
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Is there just one style? Just curious as neither of my trailers have them and I'd like to add some on the 33'er when I build the new chassis. I'm picturing a handle shaped loop of steel bar bolted or welded on but thought someone might have a picture to hand.

On snow skis for the twin otters we used to add 1/4" Tyvar and steel bar on to the surface before they went out to cut down on damage, maybe something designed to wear away would help?
All that needs to be done, is install flat plates, maybe 1/4 to 3/8 inches thick, where the frame drags at the rear.

Tack weld them in place, so that they can easily be replaced when they are worn out.

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Old 04-13-2014, 12:26 PM   #11
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I figure that if and when the bent over "L" in the OE skid gets thin, I'll just tack a piece of 1/2" angle to it and move on. When it gets thin, just do the same.

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Old 04-13-2014, 12:40 PM   #12
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If you have rear end separation a bottoming out situation will crush the rear of the trailer as the loose frame slams into the c-channel and causes the skin above to collapse.

Perry
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Old 04-13-2014, 12:53 PM   #13
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Drag wheels instead of steel drag bars under bumper?

I see the ability of drag wheels allowing a trailer to keep moving when a trailer with drag plates would be stopped in its tracks as a danger of drag wheels, unless of course the forced stop is across active railroad tracks...

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Old 08-30-2019, 08:28 PM   #14
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2' micro steel caster drag wheels work great, if installed about 3 1/2" forward of the rear bumper. Remove 2" of rear part of skid bar, and weld wheel bracket to the frame. Result is bottom of wheel is at same level as bottom of replaced skid bar. Greased bearings allow wheels to roll easily, much smoother than dragging a skid bar.
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Old 08-30-2019, 08:47 PM   #15
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2' micro steel caster drag wheels work great, if installed about 3 1/2" forward of the rear bumper. Remove 2" of rear part of skid bar, and weld wheel bracket to the frame. Result is bottom of wheel is at same level as bottom of replaced skid bar. Greased bearings allow wheels to roll easily, much smoother than dragging a skid bar.
Yeah...and it's so quiet you won't even know you are dragging...sounds like great idea to me.

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Old 08-31-2019, 08:54 AM   #16
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I think the wheel idea is a "BIG" mistake and you won't know it until you see the damage. A lift kit will accomplish much of the same. I just but a 2" lift on mine and very happy with it.
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Old 08-31-2019, 06:22 PM   #17
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The 3" lift I put on my trailer was one of the best things I ever did for it.

I still drag once in awhile, but not near as much or as bad.
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Old 09-19-2020, 07:32 AM   #18
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The other issue with wheels is the side load - if you drag in any kind of turn - they're coming off. The drag bar will slide across surfaces where the wheel can dig in (mud, between tracks, holes in the pavement, etc...)
A 2" lift in the axles will give you ~3" lift in the tail of the trailer going over elevation, etc... after re-levelling the trailer. Add on a tack welded sacrificial plate and don't worry about it.
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