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Old 11-10-2013, 08:18 PM   #1
JWBDADDY5
 
1975 27' Overlander
WHITEHOUSE , Texas
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 4
Underbelly

We are replacing part of and perhaps all the underbelly on our 1975 overlander what have any of you thought about using roofing felt as a water bearer prior to replacing the underbelly metal? I also need to replace all of the banana wraps to really make it look sharp,are metal one still available? If so where can I get them.
We had some great service from colonial airstream on the inner and outer fender wells but am not sure if they have metal banana wraps.
We bought our 27ft 4weeks ago off Craig's list as a one owner,listed like new in and out and it seems the only truth is it is a one owner,so take it from us be aware of the crooks out there and really take your time to look it over real good,leave your excitement at home.Many thanks again for your support and having such a great forum.
If anyone needs any original furniture please let me know as we are replacing EVERYTHING inside?God Bless and hope to see some of you nice people on the road in about a year or so john and Shelli ,Tyler texas
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:46 PM   #2
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1972 23' Safari
Tyler , Texas
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Hey John, I live in Tyler and I just got a 72 Safari! Do me a favor and let me know if there is an airstream club around here to join!
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Old 11-12-2013, 11:19 PM   #3
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1972 21' Globetrotter
Wylie , Texas
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Where exactly would the felt go? Inside the belly pan, directly above and in contact with it, or...?
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Old 11-13-2013, 07:42 AM   #4
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1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
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I would not use anything that will absorb water. Some sort of solid rubber or plastic ribbon will work fine. POR15 is a good thing to coat the frame with to reduce galvanic corrosion.

I could use some tambour. The PO removed it from the entertainment center area. This is a big tall piece a few feet long. I doubt you have a piece that large but if you do, I can use it.

Perry
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:12 AM   #5
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1971 21' Globetrotter
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"New" aluminum banana wraps are not available anymore. Sometimes they show up on eBay but not very often. They can be repaired though as the aluminum is quite soft. Many people on the forums have done so including me. There is a few pictures of banana wrap straightening in my thread below.
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:20 AM   #6
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1973 21' Globetrotter
Houston , Texas
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My banana wraps were in pretty hideous shape, but as mentioned above, they are quite soft, and easily straightened out. I used a sand bag as an anvil and a rubber hammer, and was able to return them to the proper shape without too much trouble. As there are no new metal ones available, you should do everything you can to revive your originals.

If you are thinking about putting some kind of roofing felt between the belly skin and the frame, I wouldn't bother. The belly pan is not meant to be water tight, and the more you seal it up, the longer it will take the water that will inevitably get in there to drain out, all the while causing rust on your frame, and corrosion on your skin.

good luck!
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Old 11-13-2013, 11:30 AM   #7
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1981 31' Excella II
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You don't want to put something between the frame and skin as a seal but as an electrical insulator to prevent or reduce galvanic corrosion which is an electrical process similar to how a battery works. Metal ions travel from the aluminum to the steel until a hole forms where the rivet is located. Outside the rivet area the steel will rust as well from water trapped between the frame and skin and held there by the wet pink insulation.

Perry

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My banana wraps were in pretty hideous shape, but as mentioned above, they are quite soft, and easily straightened out. I used a sand bag as an anvil and a rubber hammer, and was able to return them to the proper shape without too much trouble. As there are no new metal ones available, you should do everything you can to revive your originals.

If you are thinking about putting some kind of roofing felt between the belly skin and the frame, I wouldn't bother. The belly pan is not meant to be water tight, and the more you seal it up, the longer it will take the water that will inevitably get in there to drain out, all the while causing rust on your frame, and corrosion on your skin.

good luck!
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Old 11-13-2013, 02:05 PM   #8
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1971 25' Tradewind
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Hey John, I live in Tyler and I just got a 72 Safari! Do me a favor and let me know if there is an airstream club around here to join!
Just google WBCCI and you will find a local chapter.
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Old 11-13-2013, 02:07 PM   #9
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Am I correct that using galvanized sheet metal for the bellypan would cause a galvanic reaction? Just checking.
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Old 11-13-2013, 02:23 PM   #10
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Yes it could any place that it is attached to alu belly pan. Plus it could rust out much quicker than aluminum. Is much cheaper?
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Old 11-13-2013, 03:13 PM   #11
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Yes it could any place that it is attached to alu belly pan. Plus it could rust out much quicker than aluminum. Is much cheaper?
I would guess it would be cheaper, but was just wondering.
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Old 11-13-2013, 04:21 PM   #12
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1981 31' Excella II
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The galvanized steel is about the same price but 3 times as heavy. The zinc coating will protect the aluminum and steel since zinc is anodic to both of them. It might work fine. My holding tank pans are good as new and they are galvanized steel. The aluminum belly skins are toast. Run some numbers on the weight of steel before you bite.

Perry
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:04 PM   #13
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Has anyone painted their new belly skin with por 15?
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:12 PM   #14
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Has anyone painted their new belly skin with por 15?
After sanding, I painted the frame members with a bed liner paint by Rustoleum. Three coats, good build up. I'm pretty sure it will outlast me

I used aluminum sheets. Not overly expensive and probably easier to work with than galvanized steel.
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Old 11-13-2013, 08:21 PM   #15
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Yes much softer. I had a piece made for my trunk out of Mirror SS, and it seemed 100x harder to drill through than aluminum. I was really questioning if it was worth it.
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