Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Airstream Forums > Airstream Restoration, Repair & Parts Forums > Exterior Restoration Forum > Belly Pans & Banana Wraps
Click Here to Login
Register Vendors FAQ Community Calendar Today's Posts Search Log in

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-24-2014, 09:28 AM   #1
3 Rivet Member
 
VtTim's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Santa Fe , New Mexico
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 106
Images: 6
removing the belly pan?

Hey all. My mechanic is coming up to help with rewiring the brakes on my '74 Argosy 22. I'm thinking I have to remove the belly pan for this...yes? Any advice? I'm not terribly handy, am I biting off more than I can chew?
Thanks in advance for any tips you all can offer.
VtTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 09:36 AM   #2
Rivet Master
 
Melody Ranch's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,971
Images: 78
Send a message via Skype™ to Melody Ranch
First....see where the current wiring is. On a standard wiring job the running, tail and brake lights share a harness arrangement with the charge wire and the electric brakes. The electric brakes wire is tapped at some point to the axels. I'd try to pick up the "re-wiring" at that point. If that won't work go foreword to a point where you can pick up that brake wire and tap in there and run it to the brakes. There will be numerous places where you can bring the wire up inside the shell or the pan. I would not drop the pan for this job.
__________________
"If it can't be reduced, reused, repaired, rebuilt, refurbished, refinished, resold, recycled or composted
then it should be restricted, redesigned or removed from production."
Melody Ranch is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 06:36 PM   #3
3 Rivet Member
 
VtTim's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Santa Fe , New Mexico
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 106
Images: 6
Hmm. Ok. How about the brake away switch? Does it need a separate battery or does it draw it's power from the trailers 12 volt system?
VtTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 06:49 PM   #4
Rivet Monster
 
wahoonc's Avatar

 
1975 31' Sovereign
1980 31' Excella II
Sprung Leak , North Carolina
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 7,172
Images: 40
Quote:
Originally Posted by VtTim View Post
Hmm. Ok. How about the brake away switch? Does it need a separate battery or does it draw it's power from the trailers 12 volt system?
Mine pull off the trailer battery. I have seen some with a separate battery just for the breakaway switch, not sure if it was a belt and suspenders or required by local law. I may use a separate battery when I rewire mine, that way I can use a kill switch on the main trailer battery but still have the legally required breakaway switch.

Aaron
__________________
....so many Airstreams....so little time...
WBCCI #XXXX AIR #2495
Why are we in this basket...and where are we going
wahoonc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 07:01 PM   #5
Rivet Master
 
1986 31' Sovereign
Miami , Florida
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,137
Blog Entries: 13
The breakaway switch is hard wired to the trailer battery. Trailer breaks away, switch is activated, brakes on full. Separate battery unnecessary.

I would not drop the belly pan to require the brakes. Use the existing wiring (repairing as necessary) or use a wire fish to run new wires (your mechanic will know how to do this).

Enjoy the journey,

Mike
n2916s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 08:00 PM   #6
Figment of My Imagination
 
Protagonist's Avatar
 
2012 Interstate Coach
From All Over , More Than Anywhere Else
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 10,868
Quote:
Originally Posted by n2916s View Post
The breakaway switch is hard wired to the trailer battery. Trailer breaks away, switch is activated, brakes on full. Separate battery unnecessary.

I would not drop the belly pan to require the brakes. Use the existing wiring (repairing as necessary) or use a wire fish to run new wires (your mechanic will know how to do this).
Easy-peasy. Attach the new wire to the end of the old wire. As you pull the old wire out from the other end, you pull the new wire in at the same time.
__________________
I thought getting old would take longer!
Protagonist is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 08:27 PM   #7
3 Rivet Member
 
VtTim's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Santa Fe , New Mexico
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 106
Images: 6
Thanks you all for the pointers. Brakes and new tires are the last step to getting her road worthy. Can't wait for spring to take her out. 😃
VtTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 08:28 PM   #8
Rivet Master
 
1986 31' Sovereign
Miami , Florida
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 3,137
Blog Entries: 13
And, of course, that would be "rewire" vice "require" -- damn autocorrect...

Mike
n2916s is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-24-2014, 08:29 PM   #9
3 Rivet Member
 
VtTim's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Santa Fe , New Mexico
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 106
Images: 6
Quote:
Originally Posted by n2916s View Post
And, of course, that would be "rewire" vice "require" -- damn autocorrect...

Mike

I've seen far more embarrassing autocorrect mayhem
VtTim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2014, 09:59 AM   #10
2 Rivet Member
 
1989 34' Excella
Weatherford , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 25
Adding on to the conversation. How hard is it to remove the belly pan, just to see what lurks under? I just bought a 1989 34' Excella. Although the flooring has been repaired at some point in the past, there was a walk through inspection done to aid in the sale of the trailer that recommended that the pan be pulled for further investigation. Sounds like a good idea, but how much am I biting off? And I'll be optimistic, I pull it off...everything is tight, clean, dry, and I replace it. A Saturday job?
__________________
2001 Ford Crewcab XLT 350 Powerstroke Diesel 4X4

Figures don't lie but liars can figure
Stogiemann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-28-2014, 05:34 PM   #11
Rivet Master
 
aquinob's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
Portsmouth , Virginia
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 776
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stogiemann View Post
Adding on to the conversation. How hard is it to remove the belly pan, just to see what lurks under? I just bought a 1989 34' Excella. Although the flooring has been repaired at some point in the past, there was a walk through inspection done to aid in the sale of the trailer that recommended that the pan be pulled for further investigation. Sounds like a good idea, but how much am I biting off? And I'll be optimistic, I pull it off...everything is tight, clean, dry, and I replace it. A Saturday job?
It's a good amount of work and probably very necessary if it hasn't been removed in a long time and you have no idea of the condition of the flooring and frame. You have to drill out the rivets and in order to completely bring it down, disconnect the gas lines on the bottom so you can drop the panels. Of course all the rivets wont come all the way out and there will be some tearing in the aluminum around them. Then there's all that lovely fiberglass insulation with whatever has been living in there over the years. So, yes its a Saturday job, as long as you devote several Saturdays to it. If you want to see what I have gone through so far, click on the blog <points down>. I'm just starting to pull the belly pan on the front half of the trailer and its been slow going.
__________________
Bob

Ongoing adventures at:
https://1973overlander.blogspot.com/
aquinob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2014, 08:09 AM   #12
2 Rivet Member
 
1989 34' Excella
Weatherford , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 25
Bob - THANKS. I'll keep checking back in to see how you're coming along. The pics are wonderful and I appreciate you sharing as I'll be headed down the same path. As I spent 25 years in No. Virginia (Fairfax), I understand the hesitancy of laying on cold wet cement for any length of time. Good luck in your restoration.
__________________
2001 Ford Crewcab XLT 350 Powerstroke Diesel 4X4

Figures don't lie but liars can figure
Stogiemann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-29-2014, 11:10 PM   #13
Rivet Master
 
J. Morgan's Avatar
 
1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
Currently Looking...
Benton , Arkansas
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5,868
Images: 11
I am not afraid to take anything apart, but I wouldn't drop the pan without a good reason, too much work for too little return.

I did a lot of work on my 72, but I dropped very little of the pan.

Also, if done well, those brake wires will work just as well run under the trailer the same as the gas line.
__________________
The fact that I am opinionated does not presuppose that I am wrong......

J. Morgan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2014, 07:40 AM   #14
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
Pulling the pan is not for the light hearted but getting all the wet stinky pink insulation out and inspecting the frames is not a bad idea if you are in it for the long haul. It is on my list to do. I removed alot on my 81 center bath from the tanks on back when I had to repair the rear floor. I still have the long front section to do. I used screws to put mine back on. This is an area that needs to be accessible from my point of view. I may add a second gray water tank while I am under there.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2014, 08:57 AM   #15
2 Rivet Member
 
1989 34' Excella
Weatherford , Texas
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 25
All good points, thanks. I didn't want to offend the rivet purists but thought it might make a lot of sense to use zinc screws with washers to hold the pan in place. You can't see it and it can be re-opened. Zinc vs. stainless steel??
__________________
2001 Ford Crewcab XLT 350 Powerstroke Diesel 4X4

Figures don't lie but liars can figure
Stogiemann is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2014, 09:52 AM   #16
Rivet Master
 
J. Morgan's Avatar
 
1972 31' Sovereign
1975 31' Excella 500
Currently Looking...
Benton , Arkansas
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 5,868
Images: 11
Zinc, IMO.
J. Morgan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-30-2014, 12:43 PM   #17
Rivet Master
 
1981 31' Excella II
New Market , Alabama
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 6,145
Or Stainless with Zinc washers. The Zinc protects the aluminum and steel. Hot dipped galvanize works well but zinc plating does not last long.

Perry
perryg114 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
I was afraid of the belly pan Dingo Girl 1966-68 Caravel 26 10-05-2016 03:27 PM
How do I remove the belly pan? aluminitus Belly Pans & Banana Wraps 19 10-21-2014 10:50 AM
Things I learned, removing the Belly Plan from a 1963 Bambi Aktundra 1961 - 1963 Bambi 9 09-07-2011 10:11 PM
Bumper, Belly Pan and Banana Wrap Repair DKAir Exterior Restoration Forum 0 06-15-2011 05:51 PM
which aluminum sheet for belly pan???? clipperguy Belly Pans & Banana Wraps 2 04-26-2011 05:21 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:50 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.