How tough to take off the banana wraps?

[johnhh]

On my 1978 Tradewind I have dropped the belly pans and discovered there is a bit of rust on the beams and cross channels that I, reluctantly, am concluding that I should clean up and paint. I should drop the banana wraps and paint the spars but crap, this started out as replacing a single brake line, I don't need more to do.....

So, tell me - how much of a pita is it to drop all the banana wraps, and then put them on again? Is it easy and I should just do it?

John H

[wasagachris]

John It`s just a matter of drilling out several hundred rivets.
So what you are saying is that the main frame rails and the crossmembers have rust on them. Can you see the outriggers and are they rusted as well.
As to whether you should remove the side wraps of the belly pan and the banana wraps, ask yourself this do I want to drop the belly again later to fix these areas or just do them now and be done with it.
The banana wraps and the side wraps of the belly pan are pop riveted to the shell underneath the lower beltline trim. To access these rivets the lower beltline trim must be removed by drilling out those pop rivets and removing the trim.
You will need quite a few clecos and a set of cleco pliers to reinstall them. Clecos are temporary fasteners that hold the panels in place through the rivet holes while you replace the rivets. I would buy 100 of them so you have enough.

[johnhh]

Sounds easy enough, just (lots) more work (before I can go camping.....).

Thanks.

John H

[geodazed]

Originally Posted by wasagachris

John It`s just a matter of drilling out several hundred rivets.
So what you are saying is that the main frame rails and the crossmembers have rust on them. Can you see the outriggers and are they rusted as well.
As to whether you should remove the side wraps of the belly pan and the banana wraps, ask yourself this do I want to drop the belly again later to fix these areas or just do them now and be done with it.
The banana wraps and the side wraps of the belly pan are pop riveted to the shell underneath the lower beltline trim. To access these rivets the lower beltline trim must be removed by drilling out those pop rivets and removing the trim.
You will need quite a few clecos and a set of cleco pliers to reinstall them. Clecos are temporary fasteners that hold the panels in place through the rivet holes while you replace the rivets. I would buy 100 of them so you have enough.

I too have a 1966 tradewind with the need to remove the banana wraps in the rear to replace the rear decking under the bathroom. I have drilled out the lower beltline trim and rivets underneath. I also drilled out some of the solid rivets that were under the lower beltline. I thought the banana wrap would then just be an easy pull out but it is not budging. Should I also drill out solid rivets higher up than lower beltline trim?
Thanks

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by geodazed

I too have a 1966 tradewind with the need to remove the banana wraps in the rear to replace the rear decking under the bathroom. I have drilled out the lower beltline trim and rivets underneath. I also drilled out some of the solid rivets that were under the lower beltline. I thought the banana wrap would then just be an easy pull out but it is not budging. Should I also drill out solid rivets higher up than lower beltline trim?
Thanks

The '66 is a different animal than what was discussed above. You may have to do a few things differently than on a '78. I have a trailer at the shop now that has that area exposed, I'll see if i can take a couple of photos for illustration.

[MtnMDStan]

I have a 59 "Traveler" and my banana wraps actually hooked over the lip of the C channel. So to remove the banana wraps I had to remove the lower panels of the inside walls and unfold the banana wrap off the C channel.

[geodazed]

I guess my 66 tradewind could have the frame wrapped banana wraps. It would make sense in the assembly and add strength but I was hoping I did not have to gut the bath and bath bulkhead and peal up the inner skin. I am trying hard to follow the KISS principle in this black tank replacement and rear floor repair. I am trying to patch only the bad decking in the rear of the bath floor but with no access to the side decking channel above the banana wraps it is a guessing game about the effectiveness of my repair. Hopefully others can share their experiences.
Thanks,
Johnny P.

[overlander63]

Originally Posted by overlander63

The '66 is a different animal than what was discussed above. You may have to do a few things differently than on a '78. I have a trailer at the shop now that has that area exposed, I'll see if i can take a couple of photos for illustration.

Here are the photos:

[gwchitty]

I see those nasty hidden extra rivets hooking the wrap to the c-channel. An alternate approach would be to cut off the wrap but leave 6 inches or so connected running up from underneath. Then rivet new bellypan material afterwards. The rivets will be underneath and you can also get away with using pop rivets.

[Stefrobrts]

Originally Posted by MtnMDStan

I have a 59 "Traveler" and my banana wraps actually hooked over the lip of the C channel. So to remove the banana wraps I had to remove the lower panels of the inside walls and unfold the banana wrap off the C channel.

That is how the banana wraps are on my 68. I chose NOT to take them off when doing the floor repair, and when I saw how they wrapped over the C-channel I was really glad I'd left them alone!

[marzboy]

Funny my banana wraps are not bent over my channel on my 65. Plan to put it back togeather the same way.

[geodazed]

Originally Posted by Stefrobrts

That is how the banana wraps are on my 68. I chose NOT to take them off when doing the floor repair, and when I saw how they wrapped over the C-channel I was really glad I'd left them alone!

Did you replace the entire floor section or do a patch repair? I will have to take out the bath cabinetry, and tub assembly to get to the interior walls to see if I can slide new floor into floor slot on rails.

John P