Bellypan re-attaching

[markdoane]

A little further information on using 5052-H32 for the bellypan: I thought I might be able to anneal the sheets back to dead soft, using a large propane stump-burner torch. Then it would be easy to form it into a curve.

Bad idea. Don't try to anneal aluminum sheets unless you have a large pizza oven. The sheet warped so bad that it split on one edge.

Bob: My '59 Tradewind spent it's first 30 years and 9 months in St Cloud, right next to you.

[stagecoachbill]

OK lets use a little logic, It's a 1967 trailer. Are you doing a 5 year 10 year or 40 year restore. Length of time means greater price. If you just want to be reasonable don't worry about drilling new holes in the frame for the new rivets. I found 1" diameter rivets at a store called Fastenal. they covered the damaged holes where the old rivets broke out. Drill out what is left of the old rivets and just use these larger rivets to secure belly pan. About the rivet gun. If you are doing the entire belly pan go and get the air rivet gun from Harbor Freight Tools. If you don't have a compressor here is a good excuse to buy one or borrow from a friend.Got my air riveter on sale for $39. What a life saver. you can get pressure on the rivet and a simple trigger pull and pow the rivet is secure. Fastenal has rivets not available in the hardware store in all sizes and you will be glad you looked them up. I think they are on the internet at www.Fastenal.com They have two stores in the Denver area and I believe they are a nationwide chain. Another hint, I backed my trailer over a ditch to get more room under it to work,thankfully most of the work I had to do was in the rear of the trailer.

[Zeppelinium]

Wow, reconfirmation that many of you, yes, you, are completely NUTS! Bending the belly pan to fit up around the sides to the lower belt line (that's what I call it ). Let me add here "I am not worthy."

My belly pan only went from frame rail to frame rail--61 inches--and was therefor completely flat. My sides are separate curved pieces. Man, I didn't know I had it easy!

[pinkflamingoes]

Hey Zep;

I guess I never thought of just rolling the metal from side to side...our "belts" are off, did you put belts on yours underneath too? Sorry if it's a dumb question, but I'm new at everything I do on our trailer. You haven't run into any problems I should know of? Sounds wonderful to do it your way.

[Airstray]

If you want to use the old holes, simply place a lenght of tape, with at least 2 referance points, over the old holes on the frame. Mark or punch the holes in the tape and transfer it to the new aluminum sheet. If done carefully, it should work fine. I haven't tried it but will in a few weeks. Airstray

[bhpowell]

After treating the undercarriage with the POR-15 system, you can make reinstallation of the belly skin easier by attaching a piece of 3/4 x 1-1/2 pressure treated wood to the lower side of the trusses with stainless steel screws. Attach the belly skin to the wood using ss, round head, square drive wood screws available from McFeeley. The metal rib is not very wide so the extra width of PT wood is a big help.

[markdoane]

First, let me welcome you to airforums. The following isn't meant as a criticism, and I hope you take it only as a technical response, and not as a personal attack.

I don't think you should use pressure treated wood in contact with aluminum. The new copper quat and copper azole types of pressure treated are more corrosive to aluminum than the old CCA stuff.

[Inland RV Center, In]

Reattaching the underbelly or belly pan ,as some call, is very easy.



Use aluminum 3/16 pop rivets and stems, with "LARGE" heads.

Those will usually survive even when the running gear is not properly balanced.

Unbalanced running gear causes the underbelly to flutter at highway speeds.

Andy

[truckasaurus]

Not much to add except that I bought some tractor trailer roof skin last week. It comes on a roll 103" wide and is I believe 0.040" 3003 aluminum. (I paid $17.75 Canadian a linear foot, but it's probably half that south of the border).

My belly pan refit is non standard in that I have three large sheets covering the areas front, rear and between drop down tanks. This will accompany .025" sheet that will form the corner and side curvy pieces.

I'm using large flange rivets from Fastenal (about 8c each).

If my plan works out it should be a piece of cake to drop the large sheets for maintenance or modification work, plus 040" is seriously tough looking stuff with no unwanted seems.

[bhpowell]

Originally Posted by markdoane

First, let me welcome you to airforums. The following isn't meant as a criticism, and I hope you take it only as a technical response, and not as a personal attack.

I don't think you should use pressure treated wood in contact with aluminum. The new copper quat and copper azole types of pressure treated are more corrosive to aluminum than the old CCA stuff.

Thanks for the welcome. Actually I did not use the new PT but the old CCA material for some of the trusses. Others were done with baldcypress strips but I figured most in the community could not find baldcypress or Atantic white cedar. I applied Trempro (new name for Vulkem) where the #8 SS screws went through the face of the truss. It's pretty tough to hit that narrow truss edge where there is not a seam. Did not need the wood where the seam was.

BH

[floridartist]

This is how I am doing it, Bull the seam, purchased a 100' roll of bull tape at the roofing supply for $5 bucks a roll, placed it where the wrap will attach, second, I jack the wrap into place, then did the rivet job, then I fill the seam with Vulkem 116, picked up at the roofing supply for under $5 bucks a tube, then Rub the rail, I rivet the rail on and finish with a bead of the Silicone GE product, picked up at Lowes, made for Aluminum, along the top edge of the Rub rail, it goes on easy and looks nice, it made a much better finish than useing the Vulkem, Ok, thats the way I am doing it, it might not be the Airstream way, but it works for me, Good luck with your project, John 123