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10-13-2011, 12:22 AM
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#1
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Aluminum Falcon Mechanic
1972 31' Sovereign
Wesley chapel
, Florida
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 1,169
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Belly Pan Rivet Spacing
What is the factory spacing on the belly pan for joining sheets on the long axis
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08-26-2016, 05:32 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1967 17' Caravel
Oak Creek
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,560
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I see this is a very old post but was also wondering what spacing I should use between rivets on the belly pan?
The aluminum sheets arrive Tuesday. :-)
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08-26-2016, 05:46 PM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
1973 31' Excella 500
Vicksburg
, Mississippi
Join Date: Jul 2016
Posts: 164
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When lying on groung drilling them out it seemed like there was one rivet every inch.
Mine were spaced about 12" apart.
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08-26-2016, 07:13 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,313
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Hi Dingo Girl.
I spaced mine at 9" as it looked about right. I used large flange rivets. The material I purchased came in a 48" wide roll. The average distance from belly wrap to belly wrap was in the 70" range. So I layed the material left to right, and made overlapping seams every 48". I used about 4" spacing on the seams. There is a lot of "cut and fit" while installing the belly pan. The majority of the cross members are on 24" centers, but certainly not all of them.
I used a 2x4 and some blocks to help hold the floppy sheet of aluminum in place while I drilled and riveted.
Here is one trick I used that you may find helpful. I used a "cow magnet" to find the frame rails and cross members. It was effective for finding that 1/2" wide cross member center. However, fellow Airstreamers wondered where I might have found a magnetic cow, or do magnetic cows always point north, etc, etc.
I've done three belly pan installs, and I'm not looking forward to the fourth.
David
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08-26-2016, 08:18 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1967 17' Caravel
Oak Creek
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,560
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Al Boondy
When lying on groung drilling them out it seemed like there was one rivet every inch.
Mine were spaced about 12" apart.
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Al your funny.
Thank you for all the tips.
I like the cow magnet idea.
I've got the large flange rivets and a half dozen stub drills. It won't be long I'll have an aluminum tent, with lights.
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08-26-2016, 08:39 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
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I used a 2x4 running across under the trailer pushed up by car jacks on each end to hold the aluminum sheets up tight, made things easier.
Sharp drill bits, fully charged drill on high speed really made a huge difference. My install went surprisingly easy and I didn't think it was horrible.
I put rivets about every 12". Overlapping about 2" at the seams.
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08-30-2016, 02:55 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1967 17' Caravel
Oak Creek
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,560
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The aluminum is here. Like a giant noodle.
Any tips on not scratching the heck out of it while trying to gingerly get it under the trailer?
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08-30-2016, 06:22 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,313
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My aluminum was the standard 5052 material .025 thick. The 30' roll came with a plastic laminated on one side which offered some protection. I installed mine left to right which made the sheets a bit easier for one person to handle.
I slid a sheet under the trailer but centered and on top of my 2x4 "lift and hold". Then I lifted the sheet so it had about an inch clearance. Then back under the trailer to position it. I sometimes used some spring clamps on the leading edge clamped to a cross member if one was handy, or I clamped the leading edge to the frame rail channel.
I marked the center line of the trailer and the center of my sheets. After I was satisfied I had the dumb thing centered and square, I drilled my first hole and banged it with a rivet. I wore out my cheap creeper installing the belly pan. My electric shear worked good and saved a lot of hand shearing.
I was not very concerned about scratching as only a very picky person will lay on his back to see if my new belly pan is scratched.
I bet you have invented a better process. Maybe I stimulated your thinking.
David
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08-30-2016, 06:58 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1967 17' Caravel
Oak Creek
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,560
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My aluminum was purchased locally at Alro. 2 sheets @ 48 x 144.and one @ 48 x 96. No plastic coating.
I've got electric shears. Plenty of drills and I hope more than enough rivets.
I thought I'd wear my cheap creeper out bolting the floor down. It's still rolling. We'll see how it holds up on this step.
My sheets will go in front to back, then side to side for the last one. The bath is in the back so this one will be easily removed.
The 2 x 4 method seems like the best way for me. Thanks for all the information on this subject. ☺
It's hard to imagine trying to do this kind of a project 30 years ago with no Airforums or no Internet.
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08-30-2016, 08:01 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1974 31' Sovereign
1979 23' Safari
Wayland
, New York
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,632
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dingo Girl
My aluminum was purchased locally at Alro. 2 sheets @ 48 x 144.and one @ 48 x 96. No plastic coating.
I've got electric shears. Plenty of drills and I hope more than enough rivets.
I thought I'd wear my cheap creeper out bolting the floor down. It's still rolling. We'll see how it holds up on this step.
My sheets will go in front to back, then side to side for the last one. The bath is in the back so this one will be easily removed.
The 2 x 4 method seems like the best way for me. Thanks for all the information on this subject. ☺
It's hard to imagine trying to do this kind of a project 30 years ago with no Airforums or no Internet.
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I recommend going back to front so that the overlap of the panels has the back edge of the forward panel covering the forward edge of the rear panel. That way the seam opening us directed rearward and road spray won't get directed into the open seam. If that makes sense.
Don't worry about scratching it a little, it'll be invisible anyway.
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08-31-2016, 03:40 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1967 17' Caravel
Oak Creek
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,560
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That makes perfect sense Silver.
Thanks.
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08-31-2016, 06:02 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,313
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Belly pans are somewhat like drywall. There wasn't a sheet I put up that didn't need special measuring and trimming. There was the bumper storage area, then the sewer connection, then the axle area, then the propane lines going into the fridge, water heater, furnace, stove, etc. Then the step box, then the fresh water drain, and of course the four corners having banana wraps and compound curve areas in the rear. Drywall always seems to have a window, door, outlet, or something to cut out also.
I bought 100 rivets and ran out.
David
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09-02-2016, 08:32 PM
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#13
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Loco Airstreamer
1970 23' Safari
Denton
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 88
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Dang! I hope nobody crawls under my trailer and measures the distance between belly rivets! I've seen my share of factory belly pans, and I am pretty sure none were a measured distance apart. I'll be odd, and say mine are 9" ...
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09-03-2016, 06:56 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
Conifer
, Colorado
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 8,313
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There is a standard dimension in everyone's project plan. It is called "looks about right". I learned about it here on Air Forums from Aerowood.
It is the perfect dimension for belly pan rivet spacing.
David
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09-03-2016, 07:18 PM
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#15
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
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It's "TLAR", or "That Looks About Right".
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09-03-2016, 09:26 PM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1964 17' Bambi II
Vintage Kin Owner
Schererville
, Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,637
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OnTheFlyRoad
Dang! I hope nobody crawls under my trailer and measures the distance between belly rivets! I've seen my share of factory belly pans, and I am pretty sure none were a measured distance apart. I'll be odd, and say mine are 9" ...
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I like that....mine aren't measured either. I just put them where it didn't look like things were sagging. Very scientific...
__________________
Becky
1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
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09-03-2016, 09:42 PM
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#17
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Rivet Master
2007 22' International CCD
Corona
, California
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 9,180
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Also remember, "Better is the enemy of 'good enough'"
Sent from my pocket Internet using Airstream Forums
__________________
Rich, KE4GNK/AE, Overkill Engineering Dept.
'The Silver HamShack' ('07 International 22FB CCD 75th Anniversary)
Multiple Yaesu Ham Radios inside and many antennae sprouting from roof, ProPride hitch, Prodigy P2 controller.
2012 shortbed CrewMax 4x4 Toyota Tacoma TV with more antennae on it.
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09-04-2016, 10:03 AM
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#18
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
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I used all the original holes and then added a few more. I did not use pop rivets, I hate them. Instead I installed nutplates at every location and used 10/32 pan head screws. Makes removal of the belly pan very simple.
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09-04-2016, 10:26 AM
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#19
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Patriotic
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston
, Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,546
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood
I used all the original holes and then added a few more. I did not use pop rivets, I hate them. Instead I installed nutplates at every location and used 10/32 pan head screws. Makes removal of the belly pan very simple.
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got a link for those nut plates?
If you're using new belly pan material, how do you locate the holes?
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
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09-06-2016, 11:38 AM
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#20
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Rivet Master
1971 21' Globetrotter
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Currently Looking...
Arvada
, Colorado
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 3,530
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I used MS21059-3 nutplates installed with CCR264SS-3-4 nutplate rivets. I order to locate the holes I some 1/32 bolts and drilled a #39 hole in the middle of the head. I then pressed in the shank of a #40 drill bit. I then cut it off a 1/8" proud of the head and sharped to a point. Install the bolts with the new center punches. All you have to do then is get the sheet up in place where you want it and tap the sheet and it will center punch the sheet. Drill and install.
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