1968 Airstream land yacht

[nfio]

Looking for rear banana wraps for 68 Airstream Land Yacht 24 ft. Does anyone know if anyone can make them? most places start after 1969
Thanks
Nick

[TomW]

I could easily believe those pieces of aluminum were formed onsite by hand when my '67 Overlander was built.

Tom

[mrdes8]

You could have quite a project on you hands. Looks like the part is not even there. Do you have anything to use as a guide or pattern? If I remember fronts and rears are different on my '68 Overlander. Much of what I did floor and body wise was driven by how difficult the rears are to remove. On mine the wrap was fitted and tack riveted and wrapped down around the "c" channel before the outer skin/shell was installed. I did not take them out! Fortunately they were in good shape. My front curbside was all mangled but, there, I hammer and dollied it when the floor was out and got it back to 90-95% good, matches rest of the trailer. I could get some pics if you need. Maybe to be more clear, the wrap is positioned between the body panel and the "c" channel and all the buck rivets go through all 3 layers. There are also several "hidden or covered " pop rivets under the outside skin.
Good luck, Mark D

[dbj216]

I replaced the rear belly aluminum on my former 66 Trade Wind. It was a job, but it was easier than the 69 and later models where the rear wrap aluminum looks more like the front.

Here are some photos. I did have the old ones to use as a pattern. I'm no sheet metal craftsman, but I got them up.

My Trade Wind had a rotted rear subfloor, a rusted out black water tank, a leaking old fashioned toilet, and a crummy bathroom. So it was a major renovation project for me. I installed new belly aluminum from the nose to the rear bumper.

David

[ALUMINUMINUM]

No Banana

It’s a flat sheet of soft .032-ish aluminum that’s easy to make and difficult to install. No one sees it and no one cares, so don’t obsess over perfect aesthetic. All it does is cover insulation and prevent rodent access. David’s example is absolutely correct.

You’ll want to remove the rubrail and pry the outer skin away enough to slip the tabs between it and the u-channel. You may find obstructing rivets that you'll chisel slice through with no consequence.

The existingcover for your waterheater hole will need removal and redesign. It shouldn’t rivet outside the rubrail as shown in your image. The bellyskin wraps up onto the floor in the waterheater hole.

You can drill and set skins with pop rivets into the U channel, and additionally securely sandwich it all with the rubrail. Measure for correct rivet length.


I've never seen two waterheater panel repair/replacements done the same way. Everyone figures out their own path.


Here's the original 1968 Bowen waterheater cover, and how the belly wraps into the hole.

[ALUMINUMINUM]

I presumed that your interior was intact. If you’ve removed the bath fiberglass and abs, and removed the inner skins and insulation, it’s better to buck solid rivets.

It’s also possible that the previous worker cut the pan away and the remains of the tabs could still be sandwiched in there.