|
|
06-11-2011, 04:07 PM
|
#1
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
Yep, it's THOSE steps
So I have a problem. Steps wigged out on me today. Basically, the opening in the outrigger on the right side of the steps finally got so worn that they won' stay locked in place. Left side looks like the day it left the factory. Right side is so worn that they won't deploy and stay locked at all. A couple of pics.
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 04:09 PM
|
#2
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
Pic 1
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 04:11 PM
|
#3
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
This shows the left side, looks factory new. Step easily locks into place with no problem.
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 04:13 PM
|
#4
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
This is the right side. Won't lock in place any longer because the steel has worn down over the years.
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 04:18 PM
|
#5
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
For those of you that have dealt with this issue before, you'll notice that the right side is worn and rounded, no place for the bolt on that side to settle into.
So do I grind down both sides to an identical, symmetrical design (preferred choice), or have a welder add a spot of weld in there and shape to fit the other side (read: grind away and hope I get it right )
As always, thanks for the ideas gang.
Jim
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 04:23 PM
|
#6
|
4 Rivet Member
1973 Argosy 26
1966 30' Sovereign
Currently Looking...
Southern
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 273
|
I am no metal-worker by any stretch...could you scab a piece of metal in the proper shape on either side of the bad outrigger? ...or something to that effect. Just a thought...
__________________
All that is gold does not always glitter...those who wander not always are lost....
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 04:23 PM
|
#7
|
Site Team
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa
, ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
|
Do you think JB Weld is tough enough for something like that?
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.” ...John Wayne...........................
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 04:26 PM
|
#8
|
Maniacal Engineer
1971 25' Tradewind
Lopez Island
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,244
|
When I repaired ours I used a MIG welder, round file and carbide burr in a die grinder - not a very difficult repair. The slots need to be similar, but by most metal working standards there's plenty of tolerance for differences.
Our right side wore down as well... I made 'em match w/ the welder. Note that you can easily trace the good side and use that to match up the other side.
- Bart
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 04:28 PM
|
#9
|
Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
|
It can be made to work again
I had the same problem. Just took a rat tail file and made the notches deeper. It took a while to file new notches. Not much working room. I studied it for a while to try and determine which way and how deep, but it worked out. Now I can pull the release lever and the steps swing down and lock into place. It might be easier if you could get a rotary rasp; about 3/8" diameter and put it in a drill motor.
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 04:29 PM
|
#10
|
Maniacal Engineer
1971 25' Tradewind
Lopez Island
, Washington
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,244
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage
Do you think JB Weld is tough enough for something like that?
|
I'd be very surprised if JB weld would work here - the built up area is small, and the load quite high - which is why the steel wears out over time.
- Bart
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 04:31 PM
|
#11
|
Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Loganville
, Georgia
Join Date: Nov 2007
Posts: 1,741
|
Jim:
I don't even use mine. I made wooden steps and carry them in the truck. Adrienne does not like the airstream step and the dogs struggle with it. I really like the wood steps because they are more comfortable going up into the trailer. I stained them and put out door carpeting on them. I have two sets of steps. One I keep in Illinois and the other I use around here.
Brian
__________________
Brian & Adrienne
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 05:01 PM
|
#12
|
Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
|
I would file in this direction. Just enough where the pin on the step sets in good and solid.
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 05:07 PM
|
#13
|
Rivet Master
1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,825
|
I saw this solution at the first Branson rally almost four years ago now.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/atta...4&d=1192908130
The top has a T sweated on and the bottom has one with a slot to fit over the back of the step. There are one on each side, it's kind of hard to see the one on the left because of the shadow. They hold the step out in positions without depending on the notches in the side.
Clever and cheap. The steps were nice and solid.
__________________
Vaughan
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 05:27 PM
|
#14
|
Rivet Master
1974 Argosy 26
Morrill
, Nebraska
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 6,014
|
What is the top T attached to?
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 05:41 PM
|
#15
|
Fairway
1973 27' Overlander
1986 34' Excella
1996 34' Excella
Shavertown
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2010
Posts: 7
|
I'd probably go with Twinkies reccomendation, but I'd replace the rasp with my Dremel tool and a rotary grinding bit
good luck
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 05:50 PM
|
#16
|
Rivet Master
2005 30' Classic
Burlington
, Ontario
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,743
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by barts
When I repaired ours I used a MIG welder, round file and carbide burr in a die grinder - not a very difficult repair. The slots need to be similar, but by most metal working standards there's plenty of tolerance for differences.
Our right side wore down as well... I made 'em match w/ the welder. Note that you can easily trace the good side and use that to match up the other side.
- Bart
|
That's what I was thinking I would do as I read thru this thread - I doubt
JB weld would last long in this application.
Brian.
__________________
Brian & Connie Mitchell
2005 Classic 30'
Hensley Arrow / Centramatics
2008 GMC Sierra SLT 2500HD,4x4,Crew Cab, Diesel, Leer cap.
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 06:02 PM
|
#17
|
Rivet Master
1977 31' Excella 500
West Sacramento
, California
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 731
|
The right side of mine was also bad. Plus, the lower step no longer would hang parallel to the ground and was tilting forward significantly. and, the steel band iron accross the top of the assembly had failed making the step even more spongy. I coughed up $650 for a new step and welding of all the new components.
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 06:59 PM
|
#18
|
Rivet Master
2010 25' FB Flying Cloud
Davenport
, Iowa
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 2,146
|
BE CAREFUL, when the steps broke on my 98 AS, it cost me $60K. I went to order the parts and my wife started talking to the salesman before it was over we had a 2010 AS.
|
|
|
06-11-2011, 08:12 PM
|
#19
|
Rivet Master
1983 34' Excella
1967 24' Tradewind
Little Rock
, Arkansas
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 3,825
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by TG Twinkie
What is the top T attached to?
|
It doesn't really attach to anything. I tucks into the 90 degree corner formed by the back and top of the compartment that holds the steps. When they are the correct length, you slip them onto the back of the bottom step while raising it a little. When the step is lowered to the correct position, it moves inward pushing the top into the (upper) corner. Easy!
__________________
Vaughan
|
|
|
06-12-2011, 05:48 PM
|
#20
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
Thanks for the tips & hints, boys. I took a tape measure to it today and noticed that the factory cutout (left side) is about 1/8" further from the top of the outrigger than the worn side (right side). My guess is that the two sides need to be about the same distance from the top of of the outrigger to bring things to a sort of level, so I'll grind away on both sides until there's some symmetry there. Suspect that this will leave the step slightly off-level, but that's probably agreeable. I'll post back with measurements and results as I get the work done.
Brian, Susan found a step like you're describing on-line someplace. She just wants to buy one of those and let the steps be an unused cosmetic feature. I, on the other hand, see this as an opportunity to crank up the power tools and "fix something". I guess it's just a guy thing. Never pass up an opportunity to fire up a new tool....
Jim
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|