Shoulder Bolt Replacement

[Cispook]

Any hints on replacing the missing shoulder bolt that is on the stairs. Mine disappeared somehow between Texas and Tennessee.

[cliffcharb]

Drop the belly pan and you’ll likely find it

[martin300662]

http://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?m...roducts_id=209

[Cispook]

I have a replacement bolt - was hoping for a miracle short cut that would not involve dropping sheet metal in order to fix. I see some medium grade locktite in the future repair.

[Adventure.AS]

Originally Posted by Cispook

I have a replacement bolt - was hoping for a miracle short cut that would not involve dropping sheet metal in order to fix. I see some medium grade locktite in the future repair.

Is the nut 'serrated self locking'? If not use one. They sell zinc plated ones at HD or stainless ones on Amazon, like these metric ones.



You can make a 'blind nut' tool with a piece of plastic (like a zip tie) bent to the correct shape. Use a weak adhesive (possibly some double sided tape) and adhere the nut to it and then fish it in through the slot and hold it in place while you thread and tighten the bolt (with locktite). You could also use a flat piece of metal (e.g. cut from a soup can with button magnet on the opposite side of the nut to hold it.)

The serrated nut will grab the inside of the sheet metal and allow you to torque the bolt to specified tightness without having to use a wrench on it.

Once tightened, pull away the 'tool' you have made.

[Bill M.]

I made a cut out in the painted area next to the steps about 6" wide for access on each side of the steps and then riveted a piece of al over the hole and repainted it. My Airstream is pretty old though and I need to do a lot of work on the steps.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by Cispook

I have a replacement bolt - was hoping for a miracle short cut that would not involve dropping sheet metal in order to fix. I see some medium grade locktite in the future repair.

I did this repair about 25 or more years ago, when I owned a 1973, 1978, or 1987. I can't remember which trailer it was.

I do not remember removing the belly metal.

I think you can take the existing bolt out of the lower end of that aluminum arm where it pivots and connects to the top step. Install the new shoulder bolt in the arm. Then slide the wide part of the bolt head/flange up into that enlarged area where the "catch" portion of the slot is, while holding the arm out at a slight angle. Once the head/flange slides into the slot to the point it touches the shoulder, there is enough space at the bottom to let the bolt head through allowing the arm to swing down flat against the outrigger. Then you can rea-attach the lower end.
Hope this helps!

Good Luck!

[Cispook]

Originally Posted by Bill M.

I made a cut out in the painted area next to the steps about 6" wide for access on each side of the steps and then riveted a piece of al over the hole and repainted it. My Airstream is pretty old though and I need to do a lot of work on the steps.

Figured this approach was easy

[Cispook]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

I did this repair about 25 or more years ago, when I owned a 1973, 1978, or 1987. I can't remember which trailer it was.



I do not remember removing the belly metal.



I think you can take the existing bolt out of the lower end of that aluminum arm where it pivots and connects to the top step. Install the new shoulder bolt in the arm. Then slide the wide part of the bolt head/flange up into that enlarged area where the "catch" portion of the slot is, while holding the arm out at a slight angle. Once the head/flange slides into the slot to the point it touches the shoulder, there is enough space at the bottom to let the bolt head through allowing the arm to swing down flat against the outrigger. Then you can rea-attach the lower end.

Hope this helps!



Good Luck!

Makes sense - maybe I can get a tech sheet out of JC

[Cispook]

No tech sheet - the AS tech told me the proper repair was drilling out rivets in belly pan enough to replace the shoulder bolt. This is the approach they use with the aluminum steps and not the stamped metal version.

[Al and Missy]

What A W Warn said.

I removed the bolt at the other end of the link the shoulder bolt screws into. I screwed the shoulder bolt into the link. Then I used a big screwdriver to bend the metal out down at the front so I could work the shoulder into the slot. Once in I pushed it up out of the way and hammered the edge of the slot back flat and reattached the link.

Al

[Cispook]

I’m going to try to angle it using aforementioned method. If not successful I looked and drilling out 5 rivers will give me access. No biggie either way. I will put some locktite on the bolt threads as a precaution.

[Cispook]

Had to drill out about 10 rivets. Took a bit longer as I had to run a tap through the step arm to clean up debris. New bolt went in smoothly with some blue anti vibration fluid to hold it in place.
Some touch paint and everything goes back in place.

[ROBERT CROSS]

I never did get around to a 'shoulder' bolt.

Bob
🇺🇸

[The Colonel]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

I did this repair about 25 or more years ago, when I owned a 1973, 1978, or 1987. I can't remember which trailer it was.



I do not remember removing the belly metal.



I think you can take the existing bolt out of the lower end of that aluminum arm where it pivots and connects to the top step. Install the new shoulder bolt in the arm. Then slide the wide part of the bolt head/flange up into that enlarged area where the "catch" portion of the slot is, while holding the arm out at a slight angle. Once the head/flange slides into the slot to the point it touches the shoulder, there is enough space at the bottom to let the bolt head through allowing the arm to swing down flat against the outrigger. Then you can rea-attach the lower end.

Hope this helps!



Good Luck!

My link where the shoulder bolt has backed off, has 4 fasteners on the bottom, 2 of which go through the step to the other side. Is yours a single fastener on bottom? I’d like to try this when I get home if I can before drilling out rivets to access shoulder bolt

[The Colonel]

Ok. Made it back and decided to drill out 7 rivers and was able to lower access panel and get to bolt. Retightened with locktite and put everything back together. Much better