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08-26-2010, 03:39 AM
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#1
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1 Rivet Member
1977 21' Globetrotter
1980 28' Excella II
1974 27' Overlander
Hastings
, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 11
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Stripping clearcoat
I am getting ready to strip the clearcoat off our 77 Globetrotter redy for polishing....I read somewhere that the strippers used are generally tough on plastic lenses so they should be removed or masked using aluminium foil, wondered what is generally thought of as the best way to address the problem, also wondered if the stripper will effect awning fabric, should that be protected in anyway, I am keen to learn what I can and appreciate any input, thanks, Steve
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08-26-2010, 04:46 AM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1970 27' Overlander
Espanola
, Full Timer
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,753
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Steve, the best (or almost best) strippers are the semi-paste type that you can control where your applying it. There are a lot of choices out there as you will soon find out from the others...
Zip-Strip seems to work well in this instance for me. Just keep a bucket of warm soapy water nearby and some rags and a water hose.
The clear coat will bubble right up on contact, then let it 'do it's work' ...by waiting per instructions on the product...
You would want to apply it in sections at a time so you don't go 'crazy all over the place at once'...
It has 'lye' in it, and it will certainly sting your skin, but just wash it off.
Just be careful not to get it on those other attachments like you said.
Lastly, - as a painter I always like to recommend those very affordable 'hog hair' brushes, they have a wooden handle, and because of the nature of the actual hog hair---they hold paint very well and can be done away with with no guilt feelngs. Don't blow your money on expensive brushes. The hog hairs cost hardly anything and most hardware places have them. PS why don't you just take the lenses off?
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08-26-2010, 07:19 AM
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#3
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3 Rivet Member
2022 16' Basecamp
Columbia Falls
, Montana
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 108
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Steve,
I'm about to undertake the same project on our '70 safari. I'm using RemovALL. I never considered how careful I need to be around the Windows, lights, etc. I realize that you wouldn't want to paint any of the paste on these areas, but what if some (mixed with water) gets on them in the ringing stage?
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08-26-2010, 07:20 AM
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#4
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3 Rivet Member
2022 16' Basecamp
Columbia Falls
, Montana
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 108
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Steve,
I'm about to undertake the same project on our '70 safari. I'm using RemovALL. I never considered how careful I need to be around the Windows, lights, etc. I realize that you wouldn't want to paint any of the paste on these areas, but what if some (mixed with water) gets on them in the ringing stage?
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08-26-2010, 07:39 AM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1968 30' Sovereign
1959 18' "Footer"
1954 22' Flying Cloud
Brussels
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 615
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Stripper
I stripped my 68 Sovereign and learned a couple of things.
1. Remove all plastic items, even if you wash the stripper off quickly it will still mark it.
2. Remove the awning, again the stripper will get on it and damage the material.
3. Avoid all seals around the windows, doors etc, the stripper will get in and destroy those over time.
4. Avoid using water, it seems that it gets the stripper into the seams of the skin and can cause leaks.
I used Bix aircraft stripper, applied it on a small area, removed the clear coat with a plastic scraper, and then wiped the residue with laquer thinner and a clean rag.
I was able to avoid leaks between the skin pannels that way.
Good luck,
Ed
__________________
I'm NOT an old man.............
Ed
54 Flying Cloud
59 Traveler
68 Sovereign
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08-26-2010, 10:13 AM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge
, Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
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I just finished stripping my 68 ambassador yesterday. I used remove all 220 from vintage trailer supply. The stuff is genius. I bought 3 gallons as they recommended but only used 1 and a 1/4 gallons on my 28 footer. Brushed it on one side then the other. Then took the hose with a spray head on it. the stuff just fell off. The roof hardly had any clear coat left so it just cleaned it up a bit. There were a few spots I had to give a second coat but they were very small...
And i didn't take the plastic covers off. The stuff if it sat on there might do damage but I was careful. And rinsing it gets it all off without doing damage to any lens covers.
The one thing it won't do is take of paint. The blue strips around my trailer had been repainted (Poorly) it didn't touch the stuff. I will use a furniture stripper from the hardware store for this.
__________________
Jason
May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..
2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
AIR # 31243
WBCCI # 6987
FOUR CORNERS UNIT
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08-27-2010, 01:40 PM
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#7
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1 Rivet Member
1977 21' Globetrotter
1980 28' Excella II
1974 27' Overlander
Hastings
, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 11
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Thanks for all your input, I have thought all along I would probably have to remove the lights anyways once I get to the polishing stage, the clearcoat appears to be long gone on the roof area which is quite oxidized, actually looks rusty which of course it isnt, and is going to need quite a bit to polish off i imagine so it seems the lights are better off out of the way.
Living down here in New Zealand we dont have ready access to the same products as are available in the USA so I bought a gallon of Klean Strip whilst in LA and under recommendation of the RV place where we purchased the AS before shipping it to NZ. It appears to be a paste so I seem to have got that right.
It still seems a big job to have to remove the awning but I dont want to damage it either....is there any safe way to avoid doing it?
Also wondering if the stripper can damage the lenses, then how do we remove the pealing clearcoat from the lenses?
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08-27-2010, 01:42 PM
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#8
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1 Rivet Member
1977 21' Globetrotter
1980 28' Excella II
1974 27' Overlander
Hastings
, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 11
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[QUOTE=camaronz;887868]Thanks for all your input, I have thought all along I would probably have to remove the lights anyways once I get to the polishing stage, the clearcoat appears to be long gone on the roof area which is quite oxidized, actually looks rusty which of course it isnt, and is going to need quite a bit to polish off i imagine so it seems the lights are better off out of the way.
Living down here in New Zealand we dont have ready access to the same products as are available in the USA so I bought a gallon of Klean Strip whilst in LA and under recommendation of the RV place where we purchased the AS before shipping it to NZ. It appears to be a paste so I seem to have got that right.
It still seems a big job to have to remove the awning but I dont want to damage it either....is there any safe way to avoid doing it?
Also wondering if the stripper can damage the lenses, then how do we remove the pealing clearcoat from the lenses?
If you can dream it, you can do it.....so live your dreams every day
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08-27-2010, 01:46 PM
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#9
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1 Rivet Member
1977 21' Globetrotter
1980 28' Excella II
1974 27' Overlander
Hastings
, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTsafari
Steve,
I'm about to undertake the same project on our '70 safari. I'm using RemovALL. I never considered how careful I need to be around the Windows, lights, etc. I realize that you wouldn't want to paint any of the paste on these areas, but what if some (mixed with water) gets on them in the ringing stage?
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yes that was my concern too??
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08-27-2010, 02:31 PM
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#10
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4 Rivet Member
1976 31' Sovereign
2000 33' Land Yacht
Ball Ground
, Georgia
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 311
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Removall 220
I stripped my 31 foot 1976 last Saturday. I purchased two gallons of Removall from Vintage suppy.I am new to this kind of stuff but a friennd told me about it but didn't believe it was easy. I do things quick and sometimes not the best but this was easy. I did not have an awning so didn't deal with that. I removed the clip light lens, mopped the whole trailer using one gallon and a lambs wool applicator like you use for poly floors. Next time I will use a paint roller. I let sit 4-5 hours as directions and used a good pressure washer. I was amazed how it fell off in sheets. Other then pressure washer didn't touch it. 98% came off and tomorrow I will spot cover the few spots that I can find,recover with a roller all over incase I miss a spot and wash again. Because it's creamy I didn't tape or anything. If close to something I used a paint brush. This stuff doesn't burn your skin. and doesn't even discolor the grass. I does cost around $50 and I thought a bit high but now I think was a great deal.
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08-28-2010, 12:23 AM
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#11
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1 Rivet Member
1977 21' Globetrotter
1980 28' Excella II
1974 27' Overlander
Hastings
, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 11
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Wow, sounds like great stuff, I will definitely get some next time we are back in the States for future Airstreams
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05-21-2012, 01:05 AM
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#12
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Very american 4 a french
1971 27' Overlander
DUNKERQUE / FRANCE
, Nord
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 633
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Remove all 220 is working correctly on old clearcoat but not on recent clearcoats....
Not better than a classic stripper you can bought in supermarket for less... Why make this australian product so good when generic strppers do the same job for less money.
I've bought mine at Vintage trailer supply for stripping the clearcoat on a new panel and the result is negative: no action at all !!!
For the price I've paid ( $100 for 1 gallon , shipping inclused to France) , i really regret the transaction.....
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05-21-2012, 07:27 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
1956 22' Flying Cloud
1953 32' Liner
1955 22' Safari
Valley View
, Texas
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,971
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I agree! Remove all is mostly hype. Even Citristrip beats it, smells better too. But, NOTHING beats good old Aircraft stripper.
__________________
"If it can't be reduced, reused, repaired, rebuilt, refurbished, refinished, resold, recycled or composted
then it should be restricted, redesigned or removed from production."
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05-24-2012, 02:00 AM
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#14
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Very american 4 a french
1971 27' Overlander
DUNKERQUE / FRANCE
, Nord
Join Date: Nov 2002
Posts: 633
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Just to complete my experience with the Remove "all" 220..... the old clearcoat is just off the aluminum and really not perfect AND MARKS the aluminum already cleaned ..... it's the bad surprise of the day....
Even washed, the stripper lets smog marks and you can polish again, what you've done....
This fact , the bad power on old clearcoat and finally nothing on recent clearcoat.... I wonder why so much people use it ..... nobody got these kind of problems ????
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08-20-2020, 03:38 PM
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#15
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3 Rivet Member
1978 31' Excella 500
Currently Looking...
SOUTH ANHERST
, Ohio
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 174
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Say all new at this
I am stripping my Airstream and my question is this I have perfect looking front stone guards should I strip them or leave them as they are as I am having the Airstream polished.
I am not even sure the guards can be stripped at all. Need some help out there ASAP thanks all.
George
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08-21-2020, 08:25 AM
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#16
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Rivet Master
1999 28' Excella
Frederick
, Maryland
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 739
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If they are like mine, they are stainless steel and don’t need to be stripped as they are not clear coated. As a matter of fact, I didn’t strip behind mine as nobody sees that area and it leaves the protective coating.
__________________
1999 28' Safari
2012 F150 Platinum Max Tow 7650 GVWR 3.73 Elec. Locking Diff.(Prev 2003 Dmax).
Honda EU2000i, Equalizer Hitch
AM Solar Panels 150W - 2 Trojan T 105 6V Batteries
KC3MAP
On internet forums, please research and separate the wheat from the chaff (including mine!)
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