Spray Painting tips wanted

[Lumatic]

Looking for tips on spray painting my Cutter. I have a new compressor but no gun. Thanks

[crispyboy]

I have only spray painted small things and farm equipment.
I use a HVLP paint gun. It is important not to have any moisture so you may need to find a device to put in-line to keep the moisture out of the compressed air.
Use the recommended thinners, etc..., watch the temperature, have a good air breathing apparatus - modern paints can really hurt you permanently. You will need mixing cups for the paint.

[ITSNO60]

HVLP is a game changer. I did a lot of siphon feed painting but will not go back to that. A few tips, clean clean clean. Use compressed air to make sure there is no dirt trapped in gaps and crevasses or your spray gun will find it and blow the dirt all over your job. Wipe down with wax and grease remover before masking and again after masking. Wipe with tack cloth before spraying. Use water filters at the compressor and at the spray gun, if it's humid use two at the spray gun, your hose will collect moisture and ruin your job, get the plastic ones and use them once then throw away. Make sure the whole area is clean and as dust free as possible. Wet the ground down if you have to, and wipe down your air hose and hang it over your shoulder if you have to.

To get your settings and pattern right you can use large pieces of cardboard. When I use to paint cars I would always have a spare hood or fender handy to get the pattern and fluid rate correct before hitting the car.

The trick is to get a wet coat but not so wet that it runs, put successive coats on as soon as the prior one flashes. That includes the clear.

Beware of the curves and high points like creases, when you come around a curve or over a crease it is quite easy to apply too heavy and get a run, you have to speed up the travel a bit but not to the point of having it go on dry. Pickup truck cab corners were always tricky that way.

If you are working with an automotive paint supplier they should set you up with the correct reducer for the weather which is a good reason not to buy it too far in advance.

A good idea is to practice on some scraps in the moments before you hit the actual job but be sure you don't blow dirt onto the job while practicing.

[AlbertF]

Good comments on using a water separator. There are different options available; inline units are inexpensive.

Even in the desert of New Mexico, an air compressor will create some condensation inside the tank. That's why there should be a drain on the bottom.

Dirt is the enemy of a good paint job. Having a clean floor is important; use a sweeping compound to get rid of fine dust, and think about hosing it down before painting so that your movement doesn't stir anything up.

[Lumatic]

I will have to spray outdoors

[CRH]

You plan on painting an entire class A outside with what sounds like limited knowledge of auto painting?

[ITSNO60]

Originally Posted by Lumatic

I will have to spray outdoors

I did plenty of vehicles outdoors. Had everything ready the night before, then a final wet down of the gravel and wipe down of the vehicle in the AM and spray it. I would get up before the sun and get it done before any breeze came up. Sometimes if the day started windy I'd have to postpone. If any bugs land on it don't try and get them out, let it dry then flake them off.

If you have anything to practice on like an old beater car it sure helps get the technique down. You can do it. I studied everything I could then I just did it. My first car was a Crown Vic, I was too impatient to wait for a non windy day and I moved too fast with the gun, big mistake, it came out dry and hazy and I had to sand it all down and do it over.

The guys in Mexico paint them right in your campsite on the beach. You don't have to do it all at once either, something that big you can do a section at a time. I did the roof radius on my Class A, the taping and masking took the most time. I did one side start to finish then turned it around and did the other side, took 2 days prep and 20 min of painting per side. I was lucky though since I now have a large indoor shop.

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by CRH

You plan on painting an entire class A outside with what sounds like limited knowledge of auto painting?

Is this a rhetorical question?

[mrdes8]

A couple of thoughts, HVLP - yes, you may need to use a ladder - have long enough hose and maybe a helper, multiple cans of paint? - mix all toghether for consistency, dry air supply!!!, practice, what color? - silver can be the hardest to get even, even for the pros. Pro painters always need extra money, consider hiring one for the spray job, lurk around a body shop or ask at an automotive paint store.
Good luck, Mark D

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by CRH

You plan on painting an entire class A outside with what sounds like limited knowledge of auto painting?

Not sure yet. I may just paint over the decals.Or maybe the bottom half , or the whole thing.

[LU86Guppy]

All good advice above. I’ve not got near his or her experience but every lick of the advice above is spot on. I’ve spent a lot of time doing this stuff, but never professionally- only assisting and learning from friends who are pros to show quality level paint jobs.
Take your time, be meticulous.
Oh!
Re HVLP - agreed 100%. Recently started on a ‘48 Buick Sedanette with a couple $10 (on sale) guns from HF. Haven’t even opened the second one yet.

Practice first!!!!

[LU86Guppy]

Oh! I absolutely wouldn’t paint over those decals. Remove them with a heat gun or hair dryer and a lot of patience.
Painting over will most likely lift them due to the solvents involved.
Be sure to remove all adhesive residue diligently.

Good luck- you totally CAN do this.

[LU86Guppy]

AND - re ladders above - better off with a scaffold setup of some sort if you’ve got a stable and safe way to set it up.
Be careful.

[LU86Guppy]

OOPS!
ITSN
sorry

[ITSNO60]

Originally Posted by LU86Guppy

Oh! I absolutely wouldn’t paint over those decals. Remove them with a heat gun or hair dryer and a lot of patience.
Painting over will most likely lift them due to the solvents involved.
Be sure to remove all adhesive residue diligently.

Good luck- you totally CAN do this.

Good point, also any time the substrate is not completely free of prior finishes a sealer should be used to avoid lifting of the prior finish.