|
|
06-09-2008, 04:25 PM
|
#1
|
WBCCI 11067 WDCU
1986 25' Sovereign
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 198
|
Shark Hide protectant
OK, at the risk of someone saying I am in cohoots with a "snake-oil" salesman, I wanted to document my use of Shark Hide protectant.
There have been down right insults made whenever this gentleman offers his product as a solution and I didn't necessarily think that was fair. Afterall Airstream didn't start off using the same process for clear coating as they did today, they tried different things to see what works. And given the current filoform rants, I don't know if they have found it yet.
But I am not a crusader, this was my money so I inquired about the product. I read T Bird's pitch and sent him a PM to ask a few questions. Quite honestly his story about how the product was developed made sense to me. It is actually an older product originally developed to preserve aluminum trim work on buildings. Given aluminum was the choice of materials for most decorative moldings on early century sky scrapers that made total sense. At the end of my research I thought I might have an application for Shark Hide.
I have the following needs that the product seems to be able to help:
- the front of my trailer had a thick coat of paint acting as a segment protector to "protect" the front aluminum. No matter how I proceeded with this it was just not an easy process to strip the paint and the aluminum under was in pretty bad shape.
- I have filiform corrosion everywhere!
- I have bad oxidation!
- Basically every aluminum fitting/extrusion and the skin has either filiform from the clear coat or oxidation from where it broke down ( (Quite honestly this makes me question the use of plasticoat.)
- I don't have time to tackle the polishing at one sitting. I am stripping section by section and then polishing.
- Oh and I don't have the money to pay someone to strip, polish and clear coat my trailer right now (although I will pay to have it clearcoated one day once the polishing is done).
- So I want the product to be easy to remove without creating a waxy buildup.
- My wife doesn't like mirror shiny trailers (sorry vintage guys), which is OK because my 80s trailer won't shine up like that anyway, but she prefers a deaper hue or satin finish that a coating often provides.
These are pics of before.
__________________
Chris Keysor
WBCCI 11067
1986 Sovereign 25' CB
2007 Chevy Silverado 1500
2007 Toyota Land Cruiser
|
|
|
06-09-2008, 04:33 PM
|
#2
|
WBCCI 11067 WDCU
1986 25' Sovereign
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 198
|
First stab at the removal or polishing
OK, so you see what I was dealing with. After working about a month on the front of the trailer, I started to get it cleaned up. I was trying to get ready for a trip to Disney World for Not So Scarey Halloween in late October as a deadline.
This is the finished product.
__________________
Chris Keysor
WBCCI 11067
1986 Sovereign 25' CB
2007 Chevy Silverado 1500
2007 Toyota Land Cruiser
|
|
|
06-09-2008, 05:42 PM
|
#3
|
Vagabond
1973 31' Sovereign
1991 34' Excella
Fort Meade Md. RV park slot 8!!
, Motorsports Photographer
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 239
|
I have used Shark Hide protectant, yes it is a great product. I also like Zoop seal!!!! DIMMER
__________________
Never has so few. Done so much, With so little, That now we can do anything, With absolutly NOTHING!!!! AIR# 300
|
|
|
06-09-2008, 06:22 PM
|
#4
|
Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
West of Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 6,699
|
Tell us a bit more about the process.
Does it go on like a wax? One step process? More?
Does it do anything for the filiform, or do you have to remove the filiform, then apply the sharkhide?
I know nothing about this stuff and would like to hear more about it's advantages over other products.
Dave
__________________
AIR #15800
"Wimpy" 1/2 ton 2002 GMC Sierra 4X4 Z-71 Gasser
2000 Safari SS 25'
|
|
|
06-09-2008, 06:44 PM
|
#5
|
WBCCI 11067 WDCU
1986 25' Sovereign
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 198
|
After the first polish
So I completed the stripping and polishing in October and took the Airstream down to Florida and back and a new years eve trip to Stone Mountain. After that the trailer sat for the winter for the next round of projects.
I think the front turned out pretty well, but there were a ton of rock dings, scratches and pits left in the surface. There is just no way to get out these war wounds that I have read. And as everyone knows scratches, dings and blemishes become a haven for further oxidation.
So by March the front end had re-oxidized. The worst part being the battery covers, they were almost completely white with oxidation (almost looked like electrolis). So I proceeded to re-polish them and also cleaned the zip dee casings. This time I put on Shark Hide. It really is easy as you wipe it on and then it drys almost instantly. Two coats are recommended.
After 3 months and a couple of trips there is no oxidation evident.
At this point I am re-polishing the front cone and one more time under the front windows. Based on this experiment, I am going to apply Shark Hide to the nose cone and under the front windows. I figure if nothing else the Shark Hide will allow me to protect the aluminum from bugs and stuff on the road.
I will log the results as the product ages.
__________________
Chris Keysor
WBCCI 11067
1986 Sovereign 25' CB
2007 Chevy Silverado 1500
2007 Toyota Land Cruiser
|
|
|
06-09-2008, 06:51 PM
|
#6
|
WBCCI 11067 WDCU
1986 25' Sovereign
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 198
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fyrzowt
Tell us a bit more about the process.
Does it go on like a wax? One step process? More?
Does it do anything for the filiform, or do you have to remove the filiform, then apply the sharkhide?
I know nothing about this stuff and would like to hear more about it's advantages over other products.
Dave
|
I have removed the filiform thinking it would just continue to breed under the Shark Hide, but I don't really know that.
So once I got the finish I wanted you simply poor the product into a small cup or pale and saturate a rag with it. Then just wipe on. No buffing or polishing, it just gets applied and dries almost immediately. After waiting 24 to 36 hours you can apply the second coat.
They claim it comes completely off with Lacqure Thinner.
I think it will allow me to protect the polished skins until I can get all the filiform the rest of the trailer.
__________________
Chris Keysor
WBCCI 11067
1986 Sovereign 25' CB
2007 Chevy Silverado 1500
2007 Toyota Land Cruiser
|
|
|
06-09-2008, 07:22 PM
|
#7
|
Rivet Master
1964 17' Bambi II
Vintage Kin Owner
Schererville
, Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,637
|
I'm glad someone else is trying this product. I too have purchased the Shark Hide from the "snake oil man". I've used it on my nametags that I polished out, just to try it. It has held up well for a couple of months. I'm polishing the same as Chris is on my '86 trailer and have waxed for now. I think, after his good success, that I will remove the wax on the finished sections & apply Shark Hide. After all, the wax seems to let the aluminum oxidize, so why not try the Shark Hide? I'll take some pictures too & add them to this thread after I apply the product. Thanks, Chris, for being so brave to admit to have bought this product. I was an undercover buyer, afraid of ridicule!
__________________
Becky
1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
|
|
|
06-09-2008, 08:38 PM
|
#8
|
_
.
, .
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 8,812
|
i don't recall any references to snake oil...
being a trained professional in the snake oil business, i know my snakes!
Snake oil
and operated under the symbol/s for years, both the REAL one and the wrong one...
Rod of Asclepius
Caduceus
my reference to the above product was traveling pot sales wagon...
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f474...eam-40080.html
so it's great see ya trying stuff cuze trying stuff is fun!
the objection was the 'suggestion' in the above thread that this is a "clearcoat" replacement.
it isn't. it is basically a resin film that is applied like a 'wipe on' wood finish...
so it's somewhat like a wipe on wax/sealant, 'once a year' wax for cars, but used on bare metals..
the product is almost 90% xylene and toluene...
these potent solvents evaporate and leave a film coating behind.
so there is NO NEED to remove your new wax coating (or the old clear PLASTI_COAT) for that matter...
the solvents IN this stuff will dissolve almost ANY old finish...
but wear a haz-mat respirator, full face shield, protective eye wear, solvent proof gloves...
OR an approved ventilation HOOD when applying this stuff...
or you might just need a big dose of snake oil (from your local snake oil approved provider) afterward...
to deal with the 'brain melt' that comes from sniffing xylene and toluene...
they can sell this stuff to consumers, but it is VERY unlikely it would ever be used INSIDE the industry...
these solvents are just not allowed in most areas like rv construction anymore...
cheers
2air'
__________________
all of the true things that i am about to tell you are shameless lies. l.b.j.
we are here on earth to fart around. don't let anybody tell you any different. k.v.
|
|
|
06-09-2008, 09:32 PM
|
#9
|
Rivet Master
1964 17' Bambi II
Vintage Kin Owner
Schererville
, Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,637
|
Ya know, I'm not sure if I have any brains left, after using all the stripper, mineral spirits, spray paint, etc. etc. etc. Maybe I shouldn't have used any of those things, huh? Exactly as feared.....ridicule, sarcasm, thanks for keeping things civil.
__________________
Becky
1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
|
|
|
06-09-2008, 11:11 PM
|
#10
|
Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
West of Fort Worth
, Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 6,699
|
Chris and Becky, thanks for your experiments and comments, and 2air for your viewpoint and safety reminders.
__________________
AIR #15800
"Wimpy" 1/2 ton 2002 GMC Sierra 4X4 Z-71 Gasser
2000 Safari SS 25'
|
|
|
06-10-2008, 08:36 AM
|
#11
|
COMMERCIAL VENDOR
O'Fallon
, Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 28
|
Sharkhide
Hi all,
First and foremost, I want to thank you guys for sitting down and taking the time to share your "hands on" experiences with your fellow forum members. Generally speaking, without the efforts of guys (and girls) like you, most forums would be useless. After all, when you come to these places looking for help, wouldn't you think advice based expeirience rather than opinion tends to be a bit more accurate?
Contrary to what some folks might think, I join these forums not just to introduce folks to my products, but also to answer any and all questions about what they can and can't do for you. I make myself available to any one that cares to call, any time of the day or night, seven days a week. I would hope this sends the message that I believe in my products and that I will do any thing I can to see my customers are satisfied with them as well.
I did notice one little bitty mistake in ckeysor's application. It's allways best to pour Sharkhide directly onto your cloth and apply instead of pouring it in to an open container. Reason being (as my friend 2airishuman mentioned), Sharkhide is suspended in a blend of two solvents. If poured in an open cotainer first, these solvents evaporate so quickly that it could actually change the viscosity of the Sharkhide and it will slowly start to thicken. And if that happens, it can't flow out properly on the surface before it dries and it may leave small lines in your finish.
I'm always hanging out here in the back ground, so if any one has any questions at all, please feel free to post them, and I'll be glad to try to answer them for you.
Again, thanks a bunch you guys for sharing with your fellow members.
Clint
__________________
CLINT BLAND
SHARKHIDE METAL PROTECTANT
FLATWATER INC
618-624-4091
WWW.SHARKHIDE.COM
|
|
|
06-10-2008, 08:42 AM
|
#12
|
WBCCI 11067 WDCU
1986 25' Sovereign
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 198
|
Thanks 2 Air
2 air, as always when you get into detail on something you provide a lot of knowledge, so thanks. I wasn't specifically referencing any of your quotes, just paraphrasing the general reaction people were giving to a product that might not have universal application but does have some value to me.
I also would think this thread is properly placed in this heading because the use of "clearcoat" is a very general term used to describe protecting the surface. As Inland Andy has noted the specific type and name of clearcoat used on Airstreams has changed several times so we are left with only functional topics when spanning the decades of Airstreams out there.
PS. have you put the fire out on your new car's finish? It might burn out sooner if you weren't driving it around with that teflon coated engine
__________________
Chris Keysor
WBCCI 11067
1986 Sovereign 25' CB
2007 Chevy Silverado 1500
2007 Toyota Land Cruiser
|
|
|
06-10-2008, 09:06 AM
|
#13
|
WBCCI 11067 WDCU
1986 25' Sovereign
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 198
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by t_birder
I did notice one little bitty mistake in ckeysor's application. It's allways best to pour Sharkhide directly onto your cloth and apply instead of pouring it in to an open container. Reason being (as my friend 2airishuman mentioned), Sharkhide is suspended in a blend of two solvents. If poured in an open cotainer first, these solvents evaporate so quickly that it could actually change the viscosity of the Sharkhide and it will slowly start to thicken. And if that happens, it can't flow out properly on the surface before it dries and it may leave small lines in your finish.
|
Clint, thanks for the application advice, guess I consider directions to be more like guidelines. Anyway, I will apply it directly onto the rag.
Also, do you have any advice on storing the product. I have been putting it in our spare refrigerator hoping to preserve it longer. My wife loves to be able to get milk, veggies along with por 15 and sharkhide. Or Ice Cream and Vulcum.
__________________
Chris Keysor
WBCCI 11067
1986 Sovereign 25' CB
2007 Chevy Silverado 1500
2007 Toyota Land Cruiser
|
|
|
06-10-2008, 09:51 AM
|
#14
|
Rivet Master
2022 25' International
Savage
, Minnesota
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 753
|
ckeyser; This is exactly the process that I have been looking for, so please keep us informed! I could have written your #1-#8 needs myself, in fact, that is what I was researching this morning. I need to start on the back of my A/S, and work section by section. I also do not want a mirror shine on my '90. Which stripping and polishing process are you using? I full step by step would be very helpful, as I would be interested in copying it. I don't think I have the same oxidation issues as you, but that is OK. Also, are you re-caulking as you go?
|
|
|
06-10-2008, 01:22 PM
|
#15
|
COMMERCIAL VENDOR
O'Fallon
, Illinois
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 28
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckeysor
Clint, thanks for the application advice, guess I consider directions to be more like guidelines. Anyway, I will apply it directly onto the rag.
Also, do you have any advice on storing the product. I have been putting it in our spare refrigerator hoping to preserve it longer.
|
Hey Chris,
Remember to use a "white cotton baby diaper" to apply, and pour right frum the container to the surface of the cloth and that should give the best finish possible.
And as far as storage goes, I wouldn't keep it in the fridge. Just store it on a shelf in the garage and as long as you keep it sealed, you can go back and use it ten years from now. Sharkhide will never settle out or harden.
Clint
__________________
CLINT BLAND
SHARKHIDE METAL PROTECTANT
FLATWATER INC
618-624-4091
WWW.SHARKHIDE.COM
|
|
|
07-08-2008, 09:27 PM
|
#16
|
New Member
1992 34' Limited
rosemount
, Minnesota
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1
|
I am a new airstream owner. Have had the trailer for the past 3 years--acquired as part of a package deal and started to use it last year. Had a good time and the "community" is wonderful. Now for the problem. The finish has come off of the top and partway down the side of the trailer. I don't want the almun to be damaged but also don't know what to do to restore the finish.
This trailer was recoated at a/s factory just before I bought it and it was not a cheap repair. If the finish only lasted 2 years that seems to be a big expense that occurs way too frequently. I called the a/s factory and they told me the warranty was only good for 1 year.
What should I do to fix the problem? What are the procedures I should follow? Is this something I can perform on my own or does it have to be done by a professional?
The trailer is a 1991 34 foot limited.
Thanks
Tim Wegner
|
|
|
07-09-2008, 06:26 AM
|
#17
|
Roadtrain O--O~(--ooo--)
2000 34' Limited
1979 31' Excella 500
Miamisburg
, Ohio
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 145
|
Yecch, airplane glue flavored milk
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckeysor
Also, do you have any advice on storing the product. I have been putting it in our spare refrigerator hoping to preserve it longer. My wife loves to be able to get milk, veggies along with por 15 and sharkhide. Or Ice Cream and Vulcum.
|
The possibility of cross contamination of organic solvents to food would be too great for me to store those items in proximity. (Although I might keep them in the beer 'fridge)
Those solvents are very hard on a human body and all the protective equipment advised above is recommended during handling and use. The stuff will migrate through your skin into the bloodstream so use nitrile gloves and a organic vapor respirator to protect your lungs (and ultimatly your liver and nerve cells)
__________________
'00 34' Classic Limited (LOVSHAC)
'12 3500HD, 4x4 LBZ D/A CC LB
AIR #12881
TAC OH-10
|
|
|
07-09-2008, 07:35 AM
|
#18
|
3 Rivet Member
2007 25' International CCD
1964 19' Globetrotter
2012 Interstate Coach
vero beach
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 184
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
----- to deal with the 'brain melt' that comes from sniffing xylene and toluene...
they can sell this stuff to consumers, but it is VERY unlikely it would ever be used INSIDE the industry...
these solvents are just not allowed in most areas like rv construction anymore...
cheers
2air'
|
Re: Vincent/ Don Mcklean
"They were not listening. They're not listening still. Perhaps they never will".
BTW, There is no "e" in cuz.
__________________
Dennis & Ellen
07, 25' Ocean Breeze
64, 19' Globetrotter
Air #7609
|
|
|
11-06-2008, 03:07 PM
|
#19
|
2 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
Gualala
, California
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 55
|
Any More Shark Hide Experiences or Updates?
I'm interested in the Sharkhide for most of the reasons that have already been stated and am wondering if anyone has more to add to this thread.
It has been a few months.
How about ckeysor or beckybillrae? Since you have used the product. Is it still holding out? Does it work well?
It sure sounds like something I could use if it doesn't just fail after a certain time.
Thanks
__________________
Tim K
AIR #25767
|
|
|
11-06-2008, 03:27 PM
|
#20
|
WBCCI 11067 WDCU
1986 25' Sovereign
Atlanta
, Georgia
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 198
|
long-term test
After about 6 months on the front of my Sovereign the front still looks great. I think Tbird suggested it lasts 2 years at which point I will re-do the application.
If you remember, I am using the Shark Hyde on the front bottom segments and any parts that have had a tendancy to corrode. I am using a polymer on the top cones and it is finally starting to wear down after 6 months (not bad).
There was also some discussion on a clouding of the aluminum under the Shark Hyde. I actually think that came from the use of Blue Magic as my final polisher not Shark Hyde.
PS. many of the same chemicals mentioned above are also in spray paint. I think the warnings are fair, but should be applied to many of the common chemicals we use. So be careful with everything.
__________________
Chris Keysor
WBCCI 11067
1986 Sovereign 25' CB
2007 Chevy Silverado 1500
2007 Toyota Land Cruiser
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|