Scratched clearcoat

[JeffofCT]

I made a mistake and perhaps made it worse. Rather than compounding the problem by the various "fixes" going through my head, I'm checking in here before I proceed. After removing the plastic exterior door latch from my 2011 Sport 22FB, I used an "old" scotchbrite pad to remove some adhesive. I dampened it of course and because of the water, it was not immediately obvious what had done. Then in an attempt to address the problem, I very lightly wet sanded using 1000 and 3000 grit paper so at least the scratches are all going the same direction. Well, here is the before and after picture (note that the door latch will cover alot of the damage but not all--and it will be the only thing that I will be able to look at for the next 10 years... What should I do next?

[kscherzi]

Boy, that's a mess. You probably stripped of the clear coat in places so that needs to get fixed to prevent corrosion. I've used a product called Nyalic. I used it to repair the badly corroded aluminum door grab. It's a weatherproof clear coat sealer. Here's a link:. https://www.nyalic.com/Nyalic-12-oz-...an-_p_131.html

That may, or may not, look pretty okay depending how you feather the edges. But I expect the outlines of the scratches will remain visible.

After protecting the aluminum with a sealer, you could also cut another new piece of aluminum to serve as a covering patch placed between the door handle and door itself.

Good luck with whatever you decide to do!

[ts8501]

I would cut a piece of new aluminum in the shape of the state I live in, bigger than this boo-boo, and rivet it in place. Thus the problem would be hidden, and look like it was meant to be.

[Lumatic]

Use several grades of nuvite polish and wet sand with 600 sandpaper. Spray damaged area with Nylac.

[Mollysdad]

If the solution is to make a new patch, then you have nothing to lose.
I used a product called Simichrome on a clean cotton handkerchief, just a tiny dab. Get a stool and work the polish by hand only. I've taken out scratches this way. It's time consuming, but strangely satisfying to see the blemish disappear.

[JeffofCT]

Thank you all, I'm a little more levelheaded today. I've applied some mother's metal polish and then completely removed the film. Then I used a dremel-type polishing wheel and cleaned some things up some more. Thes pics are completely wax free and dry, so I'm confident that things will work out just fine.

[JeffofCT]

A final three light coats of Nylic did the trick. I think two is optimal as it just started to show some depth and slight orange peeling (can be seen in the refection). While I it would have been better not to "learn" this lesson, I am already applying my new skills to addressing the numerous spots of filiform corrosion.

[richard5933]

Where did you get the Nyalic?

The repair looks like a pretty good outcome.

[JeffofCT]

Previous owners gave me a partial can in 2020. It's been in a bag with some other goodies. I was concerned with the quality of the spray...given the sprayer can clog once opened. No problem though. Nyalic can be found directly from the manufacturer. https://www.nyalic.com/

[MMCMRET]

Great pictures and information. Thank you for the link to the nyalic. Let us know your results with the filiform corrosion. I have seen that issue on other AS's and wondered how it was repaired.

[MMCMRET]

Originally Posted by Lumatic

Use several grades of nuvite polish and wet sand with 600 sandpaper. Spray damaged area with Nylac.

It looks like I caught a rock during my last trip. Would you follow the same procedure for repairing this? See the attached pictures.

TSC has the Nyalic.

[Silvr_Bullet]

Sometimes it’s better to leave things alone.

[InvertdEagle]

If the clear coat is scratched or is in need of repair, why not just repair it the way an automotive paint shop would? That is...use an automotive clear coat. Such is easily available. Usually it consists of a two-part system consisting of a Urethane clear coat and associated Activator like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Uretha.../dp/B00H9MF6Y2

Such a finish would very closely match the Alcoa factory clear coat finish. The bigger issue is that if the underlying aluminum gets scratched or pitted, the new clear top coat won't hide that. You can limit how visible it is by attempting to sand with a scotch brite pad in the direction of the grain however.

The best way to apply the clear coat is with an air brush kit for small repairs. You could certainly use a bottle of clear coat from any auto parts shop, but those are single stage (e.g., without the Activator), and generally you will see the repair. Application with an air brush allows you to blend and feather the new clear coat in so it's much less visible. A quick buff when dried (and hardened) will make it virtually invisible.

[Ndcctrucks]

Originally Posted by ts8501

i would cut a piece of new aluminum in the shape of the state i live in, bigger than this boo-boo, and rivet it in place. Thus the problem would be hidden, and look like it was meant to be.

nice!!