Ok, let me have it!

[dznf0g]

Eternabond is one of those devisive subjects.

[dznf0g]

After...

[CRH]

I am not sure where it is at

[Jeff7176]

That looks great! Where did you purchase the replacement rub rail material?

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by Jeff7176

That looks great! Where did you purchase the replacement rub rail material?

I reuse the aluminum extrusion. The insert is from here:

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by CRH

I am not sure where it is at

Hopefully it is still on my pad.by the house!

[ROBERT CROSS]

Please remember...nothing is for 'eterna'.
Is it the white stuff above the belt moulding?

Bob
🇺🇸

[dznf0g]

Well, Bob, the eternabond around my roof equipment has been on for 8 years and still looks brand new. So, this is the second time having the lower rails off and I don't know how many times for re-sealing the top of the extrusions.
The "umbrella" concept of that molding is bunk. Now the wall-to-banana wrap is truly sealed and the extrusion won't be.

I trimmed a 4" roll in 3 lengthwise strips, which is just about right for the width. If you look real close, you can see the edge of the eternabond in the top joint, but I wanted it captured between the skin and extrusion. A brand new razor blade and a carb pick and the white is gone.

Edit: actually the roof eternabond has been on more that 8 years. Can't recall exactly.

[Boxite]

If only there were enough information describing the focus of this thread to inform a viewer what they were seeing….

I realize that those knowledgeable folks who have experienced previous threads/discussions about “eternabond” and difficulties with something …..but for someone just arriving at this thread….. it ‘s not clear what is being discussed.

Is it the cluttered concrete apron beneath the Airstream that has been cleaned up…?? ….or the awning-support-arm which has been relocated….?? …or the trim-piece which is too indistinct in the photos to discern some problem?

The text gives some fuzzy clues…. perhaps the topic is the plastic strip embedded in the trim moulding which has come loose…? If so, …. my insert came loose at the leading edge at only one-end…. which was permanently fixed with a ss sheet-metal screw (commonly known as a “PK” screw.) No more problem.

(If a determined person “googled” Eternabond… they would discover whatever it is ….is mfr’d by HB Fuller , who makes many products….but no definition as to which is being discussed in this thread… the aerosol can..??

[dznf0g]

Eternabond, in the past, has been frowned upon by some purists who only will allow certain urethane sealers to be used in the same application manor as the factory.
I have experimented with it and find longevity merits not present with polyurethane.
The seam between the wall/floor/banana wrap is a hot mess, in design and in assembly.
I believe simply redoing sealer over and over is the definition of insanity.
So the subject is eternabond under the extruded belly molding and a dab of sealer only on the screw/rivet penetrations.

Example
https://www.amazon.com/EternaBondRV-...08527673&psc=1

[dznf0g]

For those who haven't been exposed to the issues with this seam/joint, let me get some pics of the other side of the trailer, which is still disassembled and nekid. I'll revisit the high points of the issues. I assume we all know about the peeling, adhesion issues with the vinyl insert, so I'll skip that part.

[dznf0g]

OK, let me take a stab at the history of this issue and my long term learnings and observations. I'll do several posts so as not to lose work.

The first two pics show the construction of the joint and actual assembly/wear conditions:



In a perfect world the skin would overlap (be on top of ) the banana wrap. But it isn't and to my knowledge never has been. The banana wraps are assembled AFTER the skin/assembled walls are mounted to the floor/frame, leaving gaps in that joint/seam.

Red arrow shows one of the periodic pop rivets in the buck rivet line attaching the skin to the c-channel.

Blue arrow shows pop rivet attachment of banana wrap attachment to c-channel. These are place only about every 18" and are inadequate, as you will see in following posts.

Yellow arrow shows the gap in between the skin and wrap and exposed channel/flashing?? behind both. This gap is prevalent all the way around the trailer in sections.

All of this is slathered with polyurethane sealer at the factory, in in inconsistent and non-thorough manner.

[dznf0g]

This pic shows how the wrap is allowed to just flop open after the rail molding is removed.
Yellow arrow shows common gap between pop rivets all around the perimeter.

Red arrow shows long gap where a pop rivet has failed.

I should note here that the remnants of some 5 - 7 year old polyurethane sealer has been peeled opp....BUT, it was found loose, torn, and degraded by water intrusion/road dirt. (more on that later).

[dznf0g]

This pic shows the front wall (I think we are all familiar with the flexing issues at this area?) Sealer fails rapidly in this area due to that extraordinary flexing as a result of hitched tongue weight and excessive WD application.

The red arrows show misaligned and failing buck rivets in this area. What all those extra holes are along the bottom of the skin, I have no clue??

[dznf0g]

Now down to the meat of the "seal" for that joint around the perimeter of the trailer.

This pic shows the aluminum extrusion used for a cosmetic covering for that joint AND allegedly a sealing mechanism for that joint.

The red arrow points to the recessed center groove in the molding. It is there to provide a recessed area for attachment rivets and screws. It isn't deep enough to allow for the screw heads to be below the depth of the groove. This problem makes for a situation where the vinyl insert does not have good contact with the surfaces to which its tape must adhere (yellow arrows). This allows water to enter that (assembled) hollow groove area. I have noted long term water/wetness in the groove upon disassembly, evidenced by water, a lot of road dirt, and growth of green algae on the backside of of the insert and by the OEM very rusted screws used in the end caps of the shell. (note: always go back with stainless steel screws) Several of the screws will be rusted to the point that they are frozen and snap off when removing.

[dznf0g]

This pic shows the profile of the rail molding.

Blue arrow indicates the groove where the screws/pop rivets provide the molding mounting

Yellow arrow indicates the sealing surface for the vinyl insert.

Red arrow indicates the "stand off" for the molding. Since this joint is on a radiused surface (wall to banana wrap) this stand off allows for the molding to "stand" vertical relative to the wall. And, in theory, allows for the draining of water that gets behind the molding. However, it also allows for a flooding of road spray while driving in the rain. There is no sealing in this area, and there shouldn't be, IMO.

The green arrow indicates the top edge of the molding, which is the sealing surface which, in theory provides the "umbrella" cap for the entire assembly to shed water over and away from the skin/c-channel/floor/wrap joint.

IMO, and observation over 13 years...many sealing jobs and two complete disassembles, that there is so much movement and water intrusion into the joint area that there is no way the polyurethane sealer is a long term sealing solution...and the umbrella theory of water shedding is completely inadequate due to the open underside, groove and molding end openings into the groove area.

Hopefully this helps with the history and synopsis of this long term issue. And no, it really hasn't been discussed much in recent years.

[dznf0g]

As a visual aid for just how much the a-frame flexes while under way, this pic shows the front lower rub rail laying upside down on the bench. The depressed area is the location where the rail contacts the a-frame members.

[DaveP]

Rich,

Nice work! I bought the replacement chrome tape for the belt line and the lower railing. I am sure you have lots of hours into this project. Not sure I will go to the extent that you have, but I will keep watching this thread.

So many things to do! So little time to do them!

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by DaveP

Rich,



Nice work! I bought the replacement chrome tape for the belt line and the lower railing. I am sure you have lots of hours into this project. Not sure I will go to the extent that you have, but I will keep watching this thread.



So many things to do! So little time to do them!

It isn't a difficult job, but it is very time consuming and tedious. The prep.work of getting all old sealer and dirt off is essential.