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Old 10-13-2011, 05:20 AM   #21
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawus"
 
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2003 25' Classic
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Wink

I realize that AS's leak, but we don't usually submerge or bury them on purpose.

Bob
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:11 PM   #22
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When dealing with 2 or 3 dissimiliar metals you're always going to experience electolysis, the key word here is prevention. Don't wait until the surface pitting has started or the bolts under your airstream have started to rust. The process has already started. If after the manufacturer's preventive lacquer starts to dull, that is the time to start the prevention. Once pitting and bubbling occurs, nothing will bring it back. However, if you can catch it while its still an electrolysis as in a white powder or residue prior to the pitting process, INOX MX3- if sprayed on and allowed to penetrate of a minimum of 6-8 hours/longer if possible, WILL NEUTRALIZE THE OXIDIZATION and prevent it from returning with periodic re-applications (between 6-12 months). Apply and allow 6-8 hours of penetration and then wipe off excess and buff to an original finish. The INOX MX3 is a high grade, mineral oil based anti-corrosive/penetrant/lubricant/water displacement that also has the ability to STOP ELECTROLYSIS BETWEEN DISSIMILIAR METALS/NEUTRALIZE IT AT AN EARLY ENOUGH PHASE AND PREVENT IT FROM RETURNING. INOX also has a product MX4 that has a high grade LANOLIN suspended in the mixture that is ideal for the undercarriage to prevent corrosion or compromisation of the metals underneath.
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Old 09-19-2013, 03:27 PM   #23
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Filiform corrosion is not caused from the contact of dissimilar metals.

Bob
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Instead of going to ’Starbucks…I make my own Coffee at home, yell out my name rong, then light a five dollar bill on fire.
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Old 09-19-2013, 04:38 PM   #24
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I'm looking for advice on using stainless steel with aluminum.

I received a Fiamma Bike Rack from Airstream yesterday. Airstream says to use eight #10 stainless steel screws to attach the rack to the trailer body structure. There is no mention of what precautions to take to prevent a reaction between the stainless steel and the aluminum.
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Old 09-19-2013, 05:16 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by interstateflyer View Post
I'm looking for advice on using stainless steel with aluminum.

I received a Fiamma Bike Rack from Airstream yesterday. Airstream says to use eight #10 stainless steel screws to attach the rack to the trailer body structure. There is no mention of what precautions to take to prevent a reaction between the stainless steel and the aluminum.
I would seal the screws with a quality polyurethane sealant.
You won't get much reaction both metals are pretty close to each other on the "chart"


I have used these with good results....

Bob
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Old 04-10-2014, 10:28 AM   #26
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Here is a paint that matches the Alcoa surface of the newer trailers pretty good. As mentioned above, don't tape off an area to paint, it will cause a hard edge. Cut out a template, I used poster board, slightly larger than your repair area. Place shims underneath to hold that template off the surface, say 1/8 to 1/4 the inch, then spray. It will allow paint to feather. Lightly (2000 grit) sand the spray job and then re clear coat spray. I use Nyalic polymer clear coat. It adheres to paint, original clear coat and is only ever slightly more shinny. You will not see the difference. It's not a perfect match, but closer than anything I've found.
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Old 04-13-2014, 11:09 PM   #27
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Thanks for the info @howard. You job looks great. Nice work.
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Old 05-24-2018, 07:44 PM   #28
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Howard L's Rust-oleum metallic paint solution

Great input Howard L.! It looks great in the photo. Does it look as good up-close in person?

I wonder if anyone has ever tried using that paint and clear-coat to re-cover an entire trailer (excluding the top-strip, perhaps)? It might be a viable solution with some long-term benefits; and likely a lot cheaper than new skins (on an older AS).

Any thoughts?
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Old 05-18-2020, 11:23 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard L. View Post
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Here is a paint that matches the Alcoa surface of the newer trailers pretty good. As mentioned above, don't tape off an area to paint, it will cause a hard edge. Cut out a template, I used poster board, slightly larger than your repair area. Place shims underneath to hold that template off the surface, say 1/8 to 1/4 the inch, then spray. It will allow paint to feather. Lightly (2000 grit) sand the spray job and then re clear coat spray. I use Nyalic polymer clear coat. It adheres to paint, original clear coat and is only ever slightly more shinny. You will not see the difference. It's not a perfect match, but closer than anything I've found.
I know I am replying to an old post, but how does it look after six years? Has anyone else tried this? I have the same problem in a couple of places on my Bambi.
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