Even a Pro needs advice

[Frank's Trailer Works]

here is my issue.


Two of the studs on this "Sovereign" have broken off. Any suggestions on how to go about repairing this? I thought about cutting a thin rod and epoxying it on. Not too sure about the strength though. Any thoughts?

[lewster]

Frank,

If welding new studs is out of the question, I have seen the body shop next door use a 2-part adhesive from a dual tube gun, run thru a mixing nozzle that has awesome bonding capabilities. They use it to actually bond car roofs to the frame instead of welding.

I know 3M makes this type of adhesives. They are $$$$ but well worth it.

[Aage]

Frank,

Any idea what it's made of? Not pot metal, is it?

How about a nice, strong two-part epoxy to fasten a replacement stud on with? It's not going to bear any real weight, so that might do it, wouldn't you agree?

[Edit] Lewster beat me to the draw

[osolow]

agree with lewster some of the Adhesives they use now of days are just as strong as wielding

I know a guy that owns a body shop if i can get by there I will ask him what he would suggest useing

[dznf0g]

I've had good luck with JB Weld on a variety of castings with good long term success like cracked cooling jackets on engine blocks. I even used it on a casting flaw on a carburetor bowl. Never leaked again. Works well on non-high stress metal applications. May not be a forever fix, but I'd bet it'll last several years.

[Stefrobrts]

I vote for JB Weld also, particularly since it's a part that isn't going to get all that much stress on it once it's mounted.

[CanoeStream]

I see the two broken off areas. How do the studs engage when attached through the skin? Can you increase the diameter a bit? Do you have access to the inside of the outer skin?

'Tooth' (roughening) on the surface to be bonded will be important with epoxy. Don't try to dovetail -- that would weaken the lettering and not be very effective IMO. Carbide square-edged straight-handpiece dental burs should work in a Dremel -- I'd think 1557 or 1558 would be good (or 35 or 37) -- really scar it up! (prolly available if you could talk a local dental lab out of one... Can you tell my "pro" background?) The key word is straight handpiece. Newer Dremels changed the chuck so you'd have to buy larger diameter shaft tools from Dremel. Older Dremels can take dental straight handpiece shafts.

[OTOH -- the 110 cutter here looks a lot like a dental 35/37 bur and would be ideal.]

As a function of force per unit area, you could increase bond strength by broadening the attachment surface -- glass or use some such matrix. Mats I've seen for boatbuilding are a bit coarse for this application -- but I think that's the right direction. Not all fiberglass is compatible with epoxy. I'd really wonder if you could get enough area to re-use the original shaft.

For the shaft I'd wonder about using a material that is naturally compatible with epoxy -- a flyrod solid, resin-bonded, male component for an internal ferrule? [the dense gray rod between the two white dots in the second image here]

Not all epoxies are waterproof. I keep some boatbuilding epoxy around. Guess I could figure out a couple small container -- cuz you only need a little bit.

[gwchitty]

Frank,
If you really want to fix this so you can depend on it, take it to a machine shop. Drill and countersink the break site for a #4 or smaller flat head screw. Drill and tap the post then assemble.

[lewster]

Frank,

Another light just went on.

3M VHB tape! I use it to mount brackets for solar panels to the smooth metal or fiberglass roofs of motor homes and Airstreams and they travel down the road and we have not lost one yet!

You can remove the remaining posts, smooth the back of the emblem with grinding, then sanding, clean very well with alcohol and apply the VHB tape, rolling over it to activate the adhesive. Then cut to shape with a new Xacto blade and you are ready to re-apply to the trailer.

Again, clean and prep the surface with alcohol and then apply the emblem. Be sure you have it where you want it as this stuff does not come off easily! Press to activate the adhesive and surface tape it in place for 24 hours. Once the adhesive in the VHB tape has cured, you will have one difficult time to try to remove it!

[dznf0g]

Originally Posted by lewster

Frank,

Another light just went on.

3M VHB tape! I use it to mount brackets for solar panels to the smooth metal or fiberglass roofs of motor homes and Airstreams and they travel down the road and we have not lost one yet!

You can remove the remaining posts, smooth the back of the emblem with grinding, then sanding, clean very well with alcohol and apply the VHB tape, rolling over it to activate the adhesive. Then cut to shape with a new Xacto blade and you are ready to re-apply to the trailer.

Again, clean and prep the surface with alcohol and then apply the emblem. Be sure you have it where you want it as this stuff does not come off easily! Press to activate the adhesive and surface tape it in place for 24 hours. Once the adhesive in the VHB tape has cured, you will have one difficult time to try to remove it!

Ah, that's it. I think those emblems are pot metal...other than roughening it up and epoxying, much more "machining", I'm afraid wouldn't work. I like the adhesive tape idea!

[NevadaGeo]

Two original posts and glue, what more could you ask for other than a new?

[Frank's Trailer Works]

I am often humbled by the vast amounts of help I find on this forum. Thank you everyone.

Lewster, Where can I find this tape?

[PINKBIKE]

3m also makes a two way tape that body shops use to stick on weatherstrips,and emblems.. call your local body shop supply house

[dieseleagle]

I had the same issue with the Tradewind emblem on my trailer. I would also suggest the 3M sticky tape as described above. Mine has been on for two years and there is no indication that it wants to let loose. It can be found at any auto parts store and at the big box stores. It has a red plastic release tape on it so it does stand out on the display shelf. This picture shows how it looks.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by 62overlander

I am often humbled by the vast amounts of help I find on this forum. Thank you everyone.

Lewster, Where can I find this tape?

Last roll I bought was very expensive at about $75, but it is a very large roll. Probably way more than you will ever need.

PM me your address and I'll send you a couple of feet.

[mello mike]

I vote for the VHB tape, too. At Lewster's recommendation I ordered some for my Solar Panel installation and was amazed at how strong it is.

However, I wouldn't bother repairing the broken posts. I would simply use the tape to attach it to the skin. I'm going to use the VHB tape to attach my new emblems to my '58. Not going to bother with riveting them on.

[overlander63]

I use the VHB tape to stick emblems back on trailers. One word of caution: Make sure the emblem is where you want it before pressing it into place. Once it's on, it'll never come off in one piece.

[wworx]

Before you give up on the welding idea, you may want to consider something like this

technoweld

There are a couple of brand variations of this but it may work for what you're trying to do.

Another thought is to use good old rivets! May not be 100% authentic, but certainly in keeping with the theme.

[DougZ]

Considering how many cars today are "glued" together, I would trust a modern glue more than I would trust trying to weld the studs on. You still have 2 good studs for alignment so you are good to go.

Doug

[Inland RV Center, In]

Trimmed, double sided tape, is cheap, available in small quantities, easy to use, and lasts a long time.

Glue should not be used, because if you ever wanted to remove the name plate again, it would more than likely break up into several pieces.

Andy