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Old 08-06-2010, 02:52 PM   #1
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2008 20' Safari SE
Alta , Utah
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 6
Corrosion on 2008 Safari

We purchased a used 2008 20' Safari SE this past spring and we are enjoying it immensely. The unit was little used and everything seems to work fine. We are learning alot as we go (this is our first trailer/RV); Airforums has been a great help along the way.

The one issue is that this trailer sat in FL for 2 years and has some cosmetic corrosion on trim pieces, along some rivet lines, and on door hinges and tail light moldings. So what if anything can or should be done to repair/polish the existing damage, and to reduce further corrosion? The trailer is now stored under cover in central OR(fairly dry climate). I have wiped some BOE-shield T-9 on the affected parts at Airstreams' suggestion.
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:28 PM   #2
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Old 08-06-2010, 05:03 PM   #3
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2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
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It seems whenever these things are exposed to salt, whether ocean spray or northern winter road salt, this shows up. We had some when the trailer was purchased new. We treat it regularly with Boeshield T-9 or Corroson X and that has stopped any progression of it. I would not recommend sanding or trying to remove it, because you will expose more bare metal to the elements, unless it is done with extreme care and you have a plan to refinish those areas. The dryer Utah climate will help also. As with all Airstreams, inspect carefully for leaks on a regular basis, as they are a much greater hazard to your trailer.

Keep the trailer clean and use a modern "wax", and it will look just fine. We have really enjoyed our Safari 20 SE. Very useful floor plan and nice size for travel.

Doug and Cheryl
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Old 08-08-2010, 07:25 AM   #4
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1999 28' Excella
Frederick , Maryland
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Rosie, welcome to the forums.

Tons of info on here about corrosion problems, search using the term corrosion or filiform.

But don't let it get you down, just enjoy your new toy!
1999 28' Safari
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:07 AM   #5
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2007 23' Safari SE
Camarillo , California
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We bought our AS in May and we are very happy with it. And as a result of reading these forums I have gone over it inch by inch. The only corrosion that I have found is on the wheels. So I feel very lucky. But I'm not going to worry about it. Like the previous post, I'm just going to keep it clean, wax it and enjoy it.
"Ever notice that anyone going slower than you is an idiot, but anyone going faster is a maniac?" - George Carlin

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Old 08-10-2010, 04:56 PM   #6
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2019 23' International
La Habra , California
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Our 2008 19 ft Ocean Breeze looks about the same. Last weekend I started on the wheel well trim molding with steel wool and then with Mothers alum. polish. It came out great! As far as the other areas, I'm researching about how to clean that up now.
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Old 08-29-2010, 11:50 AM   #7
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I started seeing corrosion mostly around the belt line after about a year. Besides the Boeshield T-9, I waxed it with Turtlewax soft paste wax about three times that year. It seems to have stopped along the belt line. I have had a few other areas like the tail light housings where the corrosion got under the clearcoat but the main problem seems to be arrested.

I hope this helps.

Randy Bowman
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Old 08-29-2010, 01:10 PM   #8
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2005 25' Safari
Trabuco Canyon , California
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I'd treat the areas with Boeshield or ACF 50.

I have two much smaller areas on mine. I spot sanded it with fine stick sander, careful that I didn't get onto the good finish. At least the sanded area isn't white, its dull aluminum color and stands out less.

At least from my experience in a dry climate you should be able to drop the corrosion rate to near zero once you id a problem area.

Couple other areas to watch-apply your boeshield to the license plate holder-its very corrosion prone. Also watch the "Thor America's best RV value" sticker-it destroys the clearcoat under it. You may eventually have to cover it with something else.
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Old 08-30-2010, 06:37 AM   #9
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Our 20 Ft in Chicago Has it.! No Salt Water!
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Old 08-30-2010, 06:50 AM   #10
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Our 20 Ft in Chicago Has it.! No Salt Water!
The brine & other ice melt chemicals carry a long way on the wind and persist a while after the soft water season starts again - Illinois toll roads use the best too, last fall I about died crossing into Wisconsin in a freezing rain - snizzle - wet snow, I swear they practice tough love on Wisconsin Interstates.

What Chicago does have is the Acid Rain - its a fact that isn't going away and its year-round, some months worse than others....
The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
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Old 08-30-2010, 10:00 AM   #11
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2008 16' Safari
Destrehan , Louisiana
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Due to the way the coating on new AS trailers is applied, there is little you can do about this. You do have the option of removing the clear coat to get down to the metal. This is not a good option. Once the aluminum is exposed you will have to clean and polish on a regular basis.
On the good side, once aluminum does produce the aluminum oxide coating you see, it is very stable. As long as old salts are washed from the body and a coat of wax is applied the condition should stabilize.
I've also got a 2008 Safari and don't have any problems like yours. I've got one small spot were the coating has seperated and the aluminum has oxidized.
FYI - The old 60's trailers with the bright aluminum finsih were supposed to be washed and waxed every month! The new coated surface only needs to be washed and waxed twice a year.
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Old 08-30-2010, 11:05 AM   #12
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2008 20' Safari SE
Alta , Utah
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 6
Thanks to all for your help with the corrosion and how to stabilize and/or clean it. I did clean up the wheel well trim with a Dremel and Mothers and it looks much, much better. But as some of you have said, just "ENJOY, ENJOY,ENJOY"! which we are immensley( looking forward to a Glacier trip next week).

Thanks again.
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Old 10-15-2010, 05:29 PM   #13
2008 23' Safari FB SE
st. aug. , Florida
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 12
exterior corrosion

I have '09 25' safari fb that's heading back to Ohio in the A.M. to address this same corrosion problem. Not at all happy about this problem, and it looks like it's going to be expensive to cure? After much research and alot of gobaly-gook from different dealers it seems this is not uncommon! It looks like I'm paying to have it buffed out then sealed somehow? Like cancer, it has to be stopped------------can't believe this is the consumers problem after just 1 year of being parked!!
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Old 08-25-2012, 09:01 AM   #14
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2006 34' Classic S/O
Hobe Sound , Florida
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Thor Sticker corroded! Should it be removed or just put a Sticker over it? See picture 😡
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Old 01-14-2013, 06:49 AM   #15
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2006 25' Safari
1966 26' Overlander
Wainscott , The Hamptons, Long Island
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Posts: 121
Real rookie questions here but how do you "apply" Boeshield? What is the process and/steps. Entire clear coat or just rivets and joints. Boeshield and then wax? Thanks in advance....I'm really lucky with my 2006 so far but I know it's going to take some effort to keep it as the former owner did. I'm very near the ocean in the northeast and it lives outdoors.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:57 PM   #16
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2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
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I use CorrosionX on the shell and fittings and Boeshield underneath on the frame, axles, stabilizers, etc.

Boeshield leaves an ugly coating of paraffin wax after its solvent dries. It is terrible, just awful to get it off the panel areas of the shell. I've used it though, by spraying some in the cap of the can, then taking a Q-Tip and applying to the rivets so it soaks into them, and onto all the cut edges and fittings (lights, locks, etc). Then after doing a section, wipe up runs and excess with a microfiber cloth. Not hard to do at all.

These treatments do wash and wear away. It's going to be a tough ticket keeping the trailer entirely corrosion free if its exposed to salt air, but you will soon see how your attempts are doing. Stay ahead of it, wash and apply treatment as needed. Preventive treatment is easy, extensive repairs are not.

doug k
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