Best White Roof Coating

[perryg114]

I have heard good results from this stuff but it ain't cheap. I was thinking of putting this on the roof of the Airstream. I wonder of 1 gallon will do the roof between the awnings and the front end cap upper seam? Any other coatings out there that last and won't mildew?



For those of you that don't know, white is the best roof coating for keeping the trailer cool. It not only reflects light coming in but it is also good at radiating the heat away. Polished aluminum is not great at radiating heat away.



https://www.amazon.com/Henry-Tropi-C...s%2C178&sr=8-1


Perry

[AstroBruce]

4" Eternabond. I put that (bleep) on everything.

Bruce

[Airtandem]

I used Bus Kote. I did 2 coats from 1 inch outside rivets and all but under AC. It's been 2 years and coach is cool and it insulates against sound. I have a 25 ft FC.

[John&Vicki]

I would really like to paint the top of my trailer. It’s the only part of the trailer, other than the blue stripe, that shows it’s age (29 years). Plus I like the look and the cooling effect.

Due to my loss of coordination over the past few years (it’s come down to bragging about glory days - the older I get the better I used to be, but I digress) I’m reluctant to climb on the roof of my trailer. I know I’m getting to the age where I should probably hire some things out but I’ve been DIY my whole life and it’s tough to change. Can you do a good job from the side with a roller and a long handle?

Thanks,
John

[AlbertF]

Originally Posted by John&Vicki

I would really like to paint the top of my trailer. It’s the only part of the trailer, other than the blue stripe, that shows it’s age (29 years). Plus I like the look and the cooling effect.

Due to my loss of coordination over the past few years (it’s come down to bragging about glory days - the older I get the better I used to be, but I digress) I’m reluctant to climb on the roof of my trailer. I know I’m getting to the age where I should probably hire some things out but I’ve been DIY my whole life and it’s tough to change. Can you do a good job from the side with a roller and a long handle?

Thanks,
John

A length of aluminum extension ladder, and couple of short pieces of pool noodle slit with a knife to prevent the ladder from damaging the side, and I was able to wash and wax the roof of our trailer a couple of weeks ago. If you are reach with a short pole, you should be fine.
Getting it good and clean is most important. A good scrub with dish detergent should remove any grease or wax on the roof.

[perryg114]

You should be able to paint it will a roller on the end of a broom stick but you need to clean the roof and get all the mold etc off the roof. Don't tell anyone but I actually used bleach to kill the mold up there with no ill effects on the trailer. Probably not something to do on a new trailer with the corrosion issues.



Perry

[james.mileur]

Don't know if white GACO silicone sticks to aluminum (should based on marketing), but at high noon in Hawaii, it feels like cool porpoise skin.

[aswell]

Originally Posted by perryg114

I have heard good results from this stuff but it ain't cheap. I was thinking of putting this on the roof of the Airstream. I wonder of 1 gallon will do the roof between the awnings and the front end cap upper seam? Any other coatings out there that last and won't mildew?

We used BusKote, and the results were better than expected. It was applied in Texas last September, and there was over a 10 degree drop inside the day after doing the first coat, with the original Penguin AC.

We can now keep the inside of our 34' in the mid to upper 70's even when it's in the upper 90's outside, with a single 13.5k AirCommand AC unit. Two things that help tremendously, having awnings all of the way around, and using enough roof coating.

We used 1 gallon of the primer, and 2 gallons of the coating, plus 1 gallon of the clearcoat finish. Unfortunately we used too much of the clearcoat, which caused some slight yellowing, but it does make it easier to keep clean. In the attached pic you can see the difference between the clearcoat finish, and the freshly applied BusKote when we installed the new AC.

Make sure that a silicone coating will stick well on aluminum, you might need some sort of primer. It is not too difficult, but it's definitely not something you want to redo.

[Trons4u]

I also used Bus Kote and purchased from Amazon. I taped off the area I wanted coated, rolled it on with a short nap roller, brushed some areas. It's really thick stuff and only needed one application. I just used a gallon on my 24ft Tradewind, went from end cap to end cap and down just past the first longitudinal seam. They have a top coat too, but I didn't use it.

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by John&Vicki

I’m reluctant to climb on the roof of my trailer.

I did not have to climb on the roof. From a ladder I was able to reach to the center. I am kind of tall though. I used several ladders: a lightweight 7 foot ladder and an articulating ladder.

I used Bus Kote, also the Bus Kote Clear finish.

If you put bus Kote on too thick it will yellow but the yellow goes away after a few months.

[Sovereign85]

Thoughts of a blogger: http://rumblestripramblings.com/hot-...-or-maybe-not/

[Joyman]

Originally Posted by aswell

We used BusKote, and the results were better than expected. It was applied in Texas last September, and there was over a 10 degree drop inside the day after doing the first coat, with the original Penguin AC.

We can now keep the inside of our 34' in the mid to upper 70's even when it's in the upper 90's outside, with a single 13.5k AirCommand AC unit. Two things that help tremendously, having awnings all of the way around, and using enough roof coating.

We used 1 gallon of the primer, and 2 gallons of the coating, plus 1 gallon of the clearcoat finish. Unfortunately we used too much of the clearcoat, which caused some slight yellowing, but it does make it easier to keep clean. In the attached pic you can see the difference between the clearcoat finish, and the freshly applied BusKote when we installed the new AC.

Make sure that a silicone coating will stick well on aluminum, you might need some sort of primer. It is not too difficult, but it's definitely not something you want to redo.

May I ask what you used as a Clear Coat sealer? thanks!

[aswell]

Originally Posted by Joyman

May I ask what you used as a Clear Coat sealer? thanks!

We used the BusKote Flexi-Clear product: https://www.hytechsales.com/prod60.html

You can call the company with any questions, they are quite helpful. When I did call to ask why the finished roof had a slight yellow tint, they said I applied too much.

For what it's worth, the yellow tint has seemed to fade over the last year. It's in storage, can't hop up and look at the roof, but the last I saw it looks pretty uniformly off-white now.

[John&Vicki]

I’m getting ready to paint the roof of my 1990 25’ Excella. I’m resurrecting this thread to check on paint. Is there a single paint that is recognized as the very best? And what type of paint do you recommend? Rubber, vinyl, etc?

Thanks!

John

[featherbedder]

I would like to use buskote on my 76 AS,are there any special things to do with roof such as sanding etc. before applying, I don't need to seal rivets or seams. Bill

[John&Vicki]

Bill...

My understanding from reading here is that thorough sanding should be done, using at least 220 grit. And most recommend primer, but not all.

[JeffofCT]

I used Henry's roof seal coating on my canned ham. It worked very well and inexpensive.

I have a 2011 22' Sport and while I don't think it really needs a roof repaint, it may need a new skylight and a strong likelihood of a solar install in the coming years, so I'd probably repaint the roof at that time. It's probably last on my list of things to do.

[rocknfellow]

Use a good water soluable primer, Dunn Edwards makes one that will stick to anything, I would not sand the AS with anything unless I wanted to take the paint off. If your roof is in poor condition then maybe, otherwise first, wash it well with a good detergent, prime it, paint it.
We coat the roofs of our homes here in the SW with white 100% vinyl roof coating, it's about $110 for 5 gallons, that's prpbably enough to paint 5 AS's. It is amazing and will last about 5-7 years.

[Re-Pete]

Originally Posted by aswell

We used BusKote, and the results were better than expected. It was applied in Texas last September, and there was over a 10 degree drop inside the day after doing the first coat, with the original Penguin AC.

We can now keep the inside of our 34' in the mid to upper 70's even when it's in the upper 90's outside, with a single 13.5k AirCommand AC unit. Two things that help tremendously, having awnings all of the way around, and using enough roof coating.

We used 1 gallon of the primer, and 2 gallons of the coating, plus 1 gallon of the clearcoat finish. Unfortunately we used too much of the clearcoat, which caused some slight yellowing, but it does make it easier to keep clean. In the attached pic you can see the difference between the clearcoat finish, and the freshly applied BusKote when we installed the new AC.

Make sure that a silicone coating will stick well on aluminum, you might need some sort of primer. It is not too difficult, but it's definitely not something you want to redo.

Hello aswell,

I'm going the same route you have. I ordered the Aqua Prime primer (1 gal.), the Bus Kote (2 gal.) and the Flexi-Clear (1 gal.) from Hy-Tech.
Besides reading about it in this thread, this is what was recommended to me by the Hy-Tech company person I spoke with. As I recall, the application instructions for the primer advised 1 thin coat using a 3/8" nap roller. The other two application sheets for the Bus Kote and the Flexi-Clear finish are less specific, advising the use of a "thin nap" roller and simply advising thin coats with a minimum of two thin coats of the Bus Kote and one thin coat of the Flexi-Clear. All of the application sheets advise using thin coats. When I asked the Hy-Tech person about what the "thin nap" roller meant she sought advice from someone and came back with I should use a 1/2" roller. Now I'm no expert, but I've done enough painting to consider a 1/2" roller as more of a longer nap roller. I've used 1/2" rollers for uneven textured surfaces such as popcorn ceilings, cinder block,etc. Hopefully no ones Airstream looks like that! All that said, I'm wondering how you applied your finishes and what advice you have in hindsight.

Also, how well did it cover and do you feel it covered the square footage advised in the literature?
What drying times did you experience?

[aswell]

Originally Posted by Re-Pete

Hello aswell,

I'm going the same route you have. I ordered the Aqua Prime primer (1 gal.), the Bus Kote (2 gal.) and the Flexi-Clear (1 gal.) from Hy-Tech.
Besides reading about it in this thread, this is what was recommended to me by the Hy-Tech company person I spoke with. As I recall, the application instructions for the primer advised 1 thin coat using a 3/8" nap roller. The other two application sheets for the Bus Kote and the Flexi-Clear finish are less specific, advising the use of a "thin nap" roller and simply advising thin coats with a minimum of two thin coats of the Bus Kote and one thin coat of the Flexi-Clear. All of the application sheets advise using thin coats. When I asked the Hy-Tech person about what the "thin nap" roller meant she sought advice from someone and came back with I should use a 1/2" roller. Now I'm no expert, but I've done enough painting to consider a 1/2" roller as more of a longer nap roller. I've used 1/2" rollers for uneven textured surfaces such as popcorn ceilings, cinder block,etc. Hopefully no ones Airstream looks like that! All that said, I'm wondering how you applied your finishes and what advice you have in hindsight.

Also, how well did it cover and do you feel it covered the square footage advised in the literature?
What drying times did you experience?

Well it's been a few years, but it seems I used a 3/8" roller (with a Wooster extension pole) for all three coats. I suppose you could buy a few 1/2" rollers in case you want the Bus Kote to be extra thick, but that would only work for the Bus Kote as the primer and Flexi-clear are too thin.

I applied 2 coats of primer one day, and two coats of Bus Kote the next, one coat of each before and after lunch. Due to the time of year, the direct sun, and the relatively low humidity at the time, it only took a couple of hours to dry enough for a second coat. The Flexi-clear was done a few days later as it rained the day after finishing the Bus Kote. It could probably be done in two days, but I wasn't in a hurry. Plus, scrubbing the roof clean (using Dawn dish detergent and a long handled car brush, going slow and careful enough to not slide off the roof), then taping off the edges, fans and vents with painters tape the first day took much longer than anticipated.

And looking back, I would have used a tarp or painters plastic draped over the sides when painting, as there was some minor splatter that got on the upper street side, probably from overloading the roller and being a little too aggressive. The important part is the Bus Kote, so I did apply it very liberally. There was quite a lot of the Flexi-clear left over, a little of the Bus Kote, and I used nearly all of the primer. The recommended amounts, for our 34', were pretty accurate.

We were in Southern California this September, and while the park electrical system was straining to keep up with the demand from everyone's AC units, we had our windows open, enjoying the breeze. It makes a huge difference, worth all of the effort.

Hope some of that helps.