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Old 06-06-2018, 11:04 AM   #1
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Airstream thinks like a CAT?

I think Airstream thinks like a CAT. Now let me explain...
Anything that Airstream can cover up does not exists... like a cat covering up its crap.....examples, all the trash, wire trimmings, rat nested wiring harnesses, aluminum trimmings, pop rivet stems, and unused screws, under all the cabinets and furnishings inside our trailers. Because you cannot see them Airstream thinks they do not exists.

If any of you followed my post on swapping my freshwater tank due to a leak you will recall that that was caused by a pop rivet in the fresh water pan which wore a hole in my tank. This problem was caused solely by Airstream‘s lack of cleaning up after their work. Had the pop rivet not been in the freshwater tank pan I would have not had the leak. This repair cost me $158 for a new tank because I did the work myself, for those who could not do the work themselves who knows what it would’ve cost.

My latest example comes today I recently purchased new chrome rub rail and beltline Tram to replace my peeling trai my latest example comes today I recently purchased new chrome rub rail and beltline trim to replace my peeling trim. upon removing the old trim I found Airstream used standard metal screws to attach the rub rail to the Airstream. My trailer is stored undercover unexposed to Rain except while camping, I do not live in Florida or close to the ocean but these screws where heavily rusted and should not have been used for this “outside” application.
Again Airstreams thought process is if it’s covered up it doesn’t matter. The part that boggles my mind the most is that not 12 inches away from where the screws are used in the ends of the wheel well trim there are stainless steel screws used,
The part that boggles my mind the most is that not 12 inches away from where the screws are used in the ends of the wheel well trim there are stainless steel screws used, “Because you can see them!” Dumb....

I removed the old screws one at a time cleaned the area with the stainless steel wire brush applied some Sika flex to the hole and screw tip and replaced the screws with matching 1” stainless steel pan head screws.
Total cost of the repair $4.40

Last thing. If anybody ever ask you why your Airstream is round you can tell them....
Because Airstream cut all the corners they could building it.

See pictures below.
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Old 06-06-2018, 11:20 AM   #2
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Lovely. Now you have given me yet another thing to check and correct if necessary....last time I dealt with the trim strips they were put on with ordinary pop rivets, with screws in the end caps--and NO sealant to keep water out...(Sigh)

Fortunately I'm not dealing with much Alabama-style humidity around here, but the use of SS screws and proper sealant use is a cheap detail...
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Old 06-06-2018, 11:24 AM   #3
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I have been discovering & correctinf similar sneaky craps my self. I should be documenting them like you do. Aren't they sneaky bastards? Btw in the early 90's, we owned one of those rectangular formaldehyde filled boxes on Ford E350 Chassis by Thor and they hid the same rats nests. Wait, are Airstream still made by Thor?
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Old 06-06-2018, 11:26 AM   #4
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That's nothing new, my 2000 Safari had the exact same issue. Also there were a few holes were drilled, but no fastener at all. Water was leaking inside.
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Old 06-06-2018, 12:05 PM   #5
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Wow guys PLEASE dont look at how dirty my trailer is in the above post. Pulling 1000 miles in the rain last week did a number on it. I was waiting to wash it after I removed the old Rubrail and belt line then I found the screw mess.
Anyway it will get a proper bath after the Sika dries.
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Old 06-06-2018, 12:29 PM   #6
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And maybe not just hiding it like a cat....

I paid ($TOOMUCH) for the stainless upgrades to all the exterior doors and such. They used steel (not stainless) screws on the exhaust door. 6 months in, they're rusting. AS told me to take them to a big box and get a stainless equivalent - but unfortunately, they don't seem to want to come out for being possibly connected to some clip I can't see (behind the skin??) so I haven't been able to do that yet. I will find a way to do it - but why wouldn't they do that when installing at the factory? I'd have paid the extra buck for the stainless screws at that point for the barrel they had me over for the vanity purchase! [emoji52]

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Old 06-06-2018, 12:29 PM   #7
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And yes, Airstream is still made by Thor, otherwise they would not be made at all...Bertrice Foods' ownership darn near killed Airstream before Thor was formed to buy it.

Trust me, in spite of all the stuff we grumble about, other SOB RV brands are far, far worse...at least the Airstream is still fundamentally better designed...mine (touch wood) gives me very little trouble in general...most issues have been of my own making, but then again, it's an '07, previously owned, and, I assume, fully sorted out before we got it...
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Old 06-06-2018, 06:16 PM   #8
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Please understand. I love my Airstream and would not own any other brand, but I find it funny that all in all they fall short on the stupid stuff.
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Old 06-06-2018, 09:02 PM   #9
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Nice quality work as usual Ronnie. How hard is it to pop the rub rail out and look. If I did that on mine, could I reuse the old rubrail, or would I need to get new?
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Old 06-07-2018, 06:46 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troutboy View Post
Nice quality work as usual Ronnie. How hard is it to pop the rub rail out and look. If I did that on mine, could I reuse the old rubrail, or would I need to get new?
Does not just pop out. Held in place with 3M tape. You would have to replace if you took it out. Just wait a year or so and it will be time to replace anyway. Mine was looking pretty rough and was not falling off but “loose” in a few spots.
I’m planing on prepping the surface by cleaning with Dawn dish detergent and a tooth brush followed by denatured alcohol before installing the new trim

Out of Doors Mart sells the trim by the foot. And you would need 50’ of both the 1/2” and 1” trim for you 23D.
You cannot subtract the wheel wells on the lower trim because you will need it for the rock guards.
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Old 06-07-2018, 10:24 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMFL View Post
I think Airstream thinks like a CAT. Now let me explain...
Anything that Airstream can cover up does not exists... like a cat covering up its crap.....examples, all the trash, wire trimmings, rat nested wiring harnesses, aluminum trimmings, pop rivet stems, and unused screws, under all the cabinets and furnishings inside our trailers. Because you cannot see them Airstream thinks they do not exists.

If any of you followed my post on swapping my freshwater tank due to a leak you will recall that that was caused by a pop rivet in the fresh water pan which wore a hole in my tank. This problem was caused solely by Airstream‘s lack of cleaning up after their work. Had the pop rivet not been in the freshwater tank pan I would have not had the leak. This repair cost me $158 for a new tank because I did the work myself, for those who could not do the work themselves who knows what it would’ve cost.

My latest example comes today I recently purchased new chrome rub rail and beltline Tram to replace my peeling trai my latest example comes today I recently purchased new chrome rub rail and beltline trim to replace my peeling trim. upon removing the old trim I found Airstream used standard metal screws to attach the rub rail to the Airstream. My trailer is stored undercover unexposed to Rain except while camping, I do not live in Florida or close to the ocean but these screws where heavily rusted and should not have been used for this “outside” application.
Again Airstreams thought process is if it’s covered up it doesn’t matter. The part that boggles my mind the most is that not 12 inches away from where the screws are used in the ends of the wheel well trim there are stainless steel screws used,
The part that boggles my mind the most is that not 12 inches away from where the screws are used in the ends of the wheel well trim there are stainless steel screws used, “Because you can see them!” Dumb....

I removed the old screws one at a time cleaned the area with the stainless steel wire brush applied some Sika flex to the hole and screw tip and replaced the screws with matching 1” stainless steel pan head screws.
Total cost of the repair $4.40

Last thing. If anybody ever ask you why your Airstream is round you can tell them....
Because Airstream cut all the corners they could building it. [emoji38]

See pictures below.
I took my FC25 in for warranty work about a year ago Jackson center. While taking the factory tour I pointed out to various air stream personnel that they were using mild steel screws and should be using SS screws the entire time at the plant they swore the screws were SS. MY CLASS C motor home came apart after 5 years using the same mild steel screws
Just what are we paying for not much better than the Sobs this is not right.
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:05 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
And maybe not just hiding it like a cat....

I paid ($TOOMUCH) for the stainless upgrades to all the exterior doors and such. They used steel (not stainless) screws on the exhaust door. 6 months in, they're rusting. AS told me to take them to a big box and get a stainless equivalent - but unfortunately, they don't seem to want to come out for being possibly connected to some clip I can't see (behind the skin??) so I haven't been able to do that yet. I will find a way to do it - but why wouldn't they do that when installing at the factory? I'd have paid the extra buck for the stainless screws at that point for the barrel they had me over for the vanity purchase! [emoji52]

Attachment 313230
SSM

That door does look a bit different than the one we got years ago from RW's AS. Beveled edges?, it came with the ss hardware.

Bob
🇺🇸

TeeHee....I just went to the AS Store to ck the cover.....
look what I found. 😂
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:19 PM   #13
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Old 06-07-2018, 02:27 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
SSM



That door does look a bit different than the one we got years ago from RW's AS. Beveled edges?, it came with the ss hardware.



Bob

[emoji631]



TeeHee....I just went to the AS Store to ck the cover.....

look what I found. [emoji23]


I got non-beveled edges and non-stainless screws. It's a feature, not a bug? [emoji3]

On yours - do the screws come all the way out? Mine seem stuck on some clip I can't see. I can't imagine there's a clip behind the skin?? I'm sure I'm missing something VERY simple or doing something VERY stupid! Just want to get one out to bring to a HW store for the stainless version.....
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Old 06-07-2018, 03:15 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveSueMac View Post
I got non-beveled edges and non-stainless screws. It's a feature, not a bug? [emoji3]

On yours - do the screws come all the way out? Mine seem stuck on some clip I can't see. I can't imagine there's a clip behind the skin?? I'm sure I'm missing something VERY simple or doing something VERY stupid! Just want to get one out to bring to a HW store for the stainless version.....
Loosen them both. The furnace door will come open and there is a clip behind the furnace door. You have to open the furnace door to remove the clip. You can not take just one screw out.
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Old 06-07-2018, 03:34 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMFL View Post
Loosen them both. The furnace door will come open and there is a clip behind the furnace door. You have to open the furnace door to remove the clip. You can not take just one screw out.


A-ha!!!! Thank you! Will try that tonight.
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Old 06-07-2018, 04:59 PM   #17
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I had a '05 30' slideout model that I had several dc electrical problems due to poor electrical practices, namely using crimp connectors on the motors that operate the slide. It caused me a lot of headaches since I was in Florida and had to figure it out myself. The same thing with the car stereo cd/dvd player, it was a rats nest of wiring and one of the speakers was wired incorrectly. There was no separation of the left and right channels on the outside hookups. It took me a good while to troubleshoot this and correct the problem. I've had three Airstreams and the '05 was by far the worst as far as fundamental electrical procedures were concerned. I told the service manager, Chris Birch, that they should solder all dc connections and that would probably solve a lot of warranty claims. However, many owners are like me and solve the problems themselves. We owners get to be the guinea pigs on their products. I would never by a new one, they should be perfect for what they cost.
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Old 06-07-2018, 05:48 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stosh View Post
I had a '05 30' slideout model that I had several dc electrical problems due to poor electrical practices, namely using crimp connectors on the motors that operate the slide. It caused me a lot of headaches since I was in Florida and had to figure it out myself. The same thing with the car stereo cd/dvd player, it was a rats nest of wiring and one of the speakers was wired incorrectly. There was no separation of the left and right channels on the outside hookups. It took me a good while to troubleshoot this and correct the problem. I've had three Airstreams and the '05 was by far the worst as far as fundamental electrical procedures were concerned. I told the service manager, Chris Birch, that they should solder all dc connections and that would probably solve a lot of warranty claims. However, many owners are like me and solve the problems themselves. We owners get to be the guinea pigs on their products. I would never by a new one, they should be perfect for what they cost.

Hi Stosh - I definitely agree on the rat's next behind the stereo. I've had my locker open and what a mess. Actually have to get back in it to clean things up a bit. Just have to dedicate some time to deal with it.

I haven't had any issues with my slide. Do you still have your slide? We've got a couple of different threads on slide-outs. In fact there's a Slide-Out Society Registry here on the forum. No obligations, fees etc... just a place for Slide-Out Owners to share info. See: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f366...ry-159166.html

Tom - Slide-Out Society Registry Member #025
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Old 06-08-2018, 01:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMFL View Post
Loosen them both. The furnace door will come open and there is a clip behind the furnace door. You have to open the furnace door to remove the clip. You can not take just one screw out.


Hey GMFL - you were 100% spot on! That was vexing me for weeks! I'm a bit slow in the mechanical field [emoji3]

Awesome - worked perfectly. Unfortunately, my local Ace Hardware had nothing the matched - the threads don't seem to fit the standard or metric testers they have in the store....

I emailed AS service to see if they can mail me some stainless screws for the door.

Really appreciate the insight!!!
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Old 06-08-2018, 08:46 PM   #20
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Welcome. Anytime.
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