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Old 10-09-2011, 08:37 AM   #1
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Thumbs up A few 'details' taken care of...

Started out with every intention of washing the AS yesterday....

Got sidetracked by a few things that have bugged me for awhile...

The exterior plastic moldings, the ones that are supposed to shine, but instead just grows a lot of green stuff.

The entrance door grab handle, a relative of the battery door surrounds.

The dirty grey rear bumper cover, that resists most attempts at dressing up.

And the latch for the LPG cover that loves to come undone.

Needed only three helpers...3M Fine liquid compound,(a pretty darn good metal polish), my favorite paint sealer smeared on everything, and a mini Master Padlock.

Only thing left today is to actually do the wash job, then the DW can get the interior ready for our anu-anal Leef-Peek'n Tour.
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Old 10-09-2011, 08:50 AM   #2
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What has happened to you yesterday is a sign of old age!
Easily distracted and not doing what you started out to do.
That leak-pee'n tour sounds like the ones I take every trip.
Dave

Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Started out with every intention of washing the AS yesterday....

Got sidetracked by a few things that have bugged me for awhile...

The exterior plastic moldings, the ones that are supposed to shine, but instead just grows a lot of green stuff.

The entrance door grab handle, a relative of the battery door surrounds.

The dirty grey rear bumper cover, that resists most attempts at dressing up.

And the latch for the LPG cover that loves to come undone.

Needed only three helpers...3M Fine liquid compound,(a pretty darn good metal polish), my favorite paint sealer smeared on everything, and a mini Master Padlock.

Only thing left today is to actually do the wash job, then the DW can get the interior ready for our anu-anal Leef-Peek'n Tour.
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:43 AM   #3
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Ahhh, another fan of Griots products. I use the same sealant on all my vehicles, though the random orbital sure made life even easier with that stuff.

-Hans
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Old 10-09-2011, 09:55 AM   #4
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Sounds like a case of "Bright and Shiny" objects
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Old 10-09-2011, 11:28 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HHaase View Post
Ahhh, another fan of Griots products. I use the same sealant on all my vehicles, though the random orbital sure made life even easier with that stuff.

-Hans
The RO's the only way to go with all that aluminum...
Their soap wash car soap wash is great also, sooper slippery, no scratches with the microfiber mitt on a pole.

Bob
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Old 10-09-2011, 11:53 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by masseyfarm View Post
What has happened to you yesterday is a sign of old age!
Easily distracted and not doing what you started out to do.
That leak-pee'n tour sounds like the ones I take every trip.
Dave
That sounds familiar. I wound up searching for the waterproof grease to use on a hose-end adjustable sprayer. Have owned both a half-decade, but they'd never met. Then, soaking some bolts on the H/A with Penetro-90. Finally got around to some detailed cleaning on the wife's Jeep as planned. Then, it shortly got too hot (humidity/heat factor). Started again today, but then some rain (first in hearly a year). Maybe tomorrow.

Say what we will, it's the little stuff that makes it worthwhile. The big stuff I'd rather spread out . . with plenty of time in-between. Might be a different story with a comfortable garage/barn and a nice shop. Wouldn't ever give PAHASKA a run for the money, but more would get done. Just need another trailer first.
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Old 10-11-2011, 02:21 PM   #7
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Some skinny dude in a Chevy shirt came around today and finished getting "Cloudsplitter" all spit shined.

Now we're ready for that leef peek'n Road Trip.

Bob
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Old 10-22-2011, 11:21 AM   #8
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Thumbs up Sum-more little stuff...

Out with the rusty...

In with the stainless...

Bob
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Old 10-22-2011, 03:29 PM   #9
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Shiny is a reward!!

I changed out a few of my locker latches with stainless. Handy marine hardware. Even use the same lock . . but it rusted fairly quickly. Penetro 90 kept them operating.
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Old 10-28-2011, 06:45 AM   #10
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Another detail....

I had sealed the clearance lights several years ago....

Foam base gaskets rotted out and were leaking again....

Cut a new one from an old innertube, if it works will replace them all..

Bob
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Old 10-29-2011, 05:18 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
I had sealed the clearance lights several years ago....

Foam base gaskets rotted out and were leaking again....

Cut a new one from an old innertube, if it works will replace them all..

Bob
I bet that is going to work well! Good idea. Where the heck do you get an inner tube anymore?
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Old 10-29-2011, 05:32 AM   #12
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I bet that is going to work well! Good idea. Where the heck do you get an inner tube anymore?
When I put new shoes on the Ford, they were exact duplicates for the OEM tires except they were tubeless, so now I can start a teardrop gasket factory.

Bob
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"Any nation that can survive what we have lately in the way of government, is on the high road to permanent glory."
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Old 11-04-2011, 07:42 AM   #13
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Thumbs up

Finished winterizing a few day's ago and replaced these after two years...

As noted good, a way to keep the cr@p out..

Bob
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Old 03-21-2012, 04:19 PM   #14
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Thumbs up Repacking the wheel bearings.....

"Cloudsplitter"

Packing the wheel bearings.

What a good bearing looks like after 50k. Cleaned with brush & mineral spirits.


Inside the hub after cleaning out the old grease with one of those pesky bags you get at the Grocery. Finally found a good use for them, saves on regular rags and the blue paper shop towels. Put your hand in the bag, put the hand/bag combo in the hub, grab the grease, pull out, turn the bag inside-out and throw it away, two bags later and you wipe it clean with blue rag & m/spirits.

Actually the bags came in handy for a lot of grease wiping and cleaning up.

Used the air/die grinder with a nubby Scotch pad to clean the magnet plate and drum surface. Cleaned and wiped down with m/spirits.


Filled the void between the inner and outer bearings with about 1/2" of grease all the way around.


"Old School Packing"
Picture my/your hand in the glove. Put a blob of grease in your palm, about twice what you see here. Hold the bearing at the bottom, that will open the gap at the top making it easier getting the grease well into the bearing.
Move the bearing over your "blob" about 1/2" from the edge, (any more and the grease will just end up in the spindle hole), and push down at a slight angle, repeat. When you see it come thru the top move on to the next quadrant. After your done hold the inner portion of the bearing and turn the outer a couple of 360's, wipe it down and do the "blob" routine again.


Installing the inner seal with a block and my plastic faced "whack hammer".
POI..just what I do. The original seals were installed perfectly level with the inner spindle flange,(fine to do it that way). I drive them down about a 1/16" which gives the seal lip a fresh area to run on the spindle. Note there is a lip machined in the hub that will stop the seal from going too far, you can see it in the 4th picture. It is about a 1/4" wider than the seal is thick.


Drum/hub ready to go…..


Put bout a 1/2" of grease all around the inside of the cup, wipe down/inspect the spindle and we're ready to assemble. Seat the bearings down tight, back off 'til theres,(very) slight play, install new cotter pin and you/me be done.


Now wasn't that FUN....

Bob
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:19 PM   #15
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Thumbs down Addendum...crappy brake shoes.

When your checking your brake shoes, don't just look at how thick the friction material is, if you see any gap between the material and the metal shoe...toss 'em.
Saw a tiny gap on the ends of two shoes, lifted slightly, you can see the result. Broke the end off one and on the other the entire piece came off intact.

POI... the new shoes were less than 1/8" thicker, plenty of miles left on them had the adhesive not failed.....where oh where are the riveted ones.

Unfortunately I wasn't able to find a better quality riveted shoe today, had to replace with exactly the same Dexter.

May take the cores and have them done right.

Bob
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Old 03-23-2012, 06:26 AM   #16
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What sort of brake controller are you using? I am not sure anyone make decent quality brake shoes anymore. They are still being used on the rear axel of cars but the technology seems to be going away while they are still being used. I am having problems with my trailer brakes wanting to lock and run hot even when they are not being used. I blame this on two things. One is my backing plates are old and two the compound is way too agressive which makes the brakes either on or off or even on a little all the time. I had this problem on the rear brakes on my Ranger truck till I went to some higher price replacement shoes. Trailer brake controllers that apply 100% braking force every time you step on the brake are another problem. I am using the Techonsha P3 and I am still having problems with flakey operation.

Perry
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Old 03-23-2012, 07:18 AM   #17
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Perry,

When we got the Hensley Arrow in 2007 there was a package deal option that included their Trucontrol Brake Controller.
I was somewhat skeptical as I was well satisfied with the Tekonsha I was using at the time. But what a difference!!
Set it once for your load and forget it. No grabbing, no delay and no constant adjusting to compensate for road conditions, weather. A truly proportional unit.
The best I've used, well worth the investment!

These shoes were definitely not worn out....just poor quality from a company that has a pretty darn good reputation.
We have a local company that rebuilds clutches, transmissions, and brakes, I plan to see if they can re-build these cores "the old-fashioned" way.
I'm sure I'll be doing this job again down the road.

Bob
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Old 03-26-2012, 08:04 AM   #18
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Thumbs up An up-date....

More information....


Bob
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Old 04-01-2012, 07:03 PM   #19
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Thanks Bob - very helpful!

Sam
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Old 04-02-2012, 05:24 AM   #20
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What happened here????

Mod's HELP!!!!!

What the devil happened to all my original photo's in this thread????

That hitch pic is not in my files, not even one that I took.

Bob
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