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Old 02-25-2004, 07:19 AM   #21
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2005 28' International CCD
Pagosa Springs , Colorado
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guard

My 1967 guard was functional but the fiberglass was cracked and holed in a few spots to where it was detracting from the trailer. I purchased the tinted one from Inland (flat, not contoured) and it installed easily. I saved the frame of my original with brackets and hinge since it's still good and someone could just replace the inset with the material of choice. I'll probably list on Ebay as soon as I get around to it.
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Old 02-25-2004, 08:19 AM   #22
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1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
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My trailer had one of those clear rock guards at one time; I only know this because it is visible in a picture taken by the PO. It wasn't there anymore when I bought the unit and brought it home, and I wasn't paying attention to such details at that time, being a newbie.

the only evidence that was there was the piano-hinge across the top of the window, which had been buried is silicone. Part of the clean-up process involved removing the remnants of the hinge, vulkem-ing the top of the window, and filling in a couple of holes that I assume held the hardware for the support arms. The only remaining evidence is those spring-loaded hold back thingies along the bottom edge of the window. (there's another one of them on the curb side of the trailer for holding the entry door open...and they look very similar to the inside mechanism of the interior cabinet latches.).

Anyway, I suppose that having wing-windows, I really ought to have something there to protect them. I wonder if a "clear" version is available? on a trip last year, I inadvertantly left the curtains open, as well as the bathroom door, and noticed that I could see straight through and out the back window of the trailer, and I kind of like that feature, so that's now part of my routine. Then again, I guess the solar does act as an "awning" of sorts, and gives added privacy. decisions, decisions....
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Old 02-25-2004, 08:40 AM   #23
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2006 25' Safari FB SE
Livingston , Texas
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Rock Guard

I would call Inland RV, if anyone knows they will.

Don
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Old 02-25-2004, 08:48 AM   #24
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2005 22' International CCD
Buckhorn , Ontario
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Quote:
Then again, I guess the solar does act as an "awning" of sorts, and gives added privacy. decisions, decisions....
Thanks for digging up the photo of the clear guard and posting it Chuck - this makes my job so much easier now! Peter can have a look from every point of view and make the big 'D'

Oh no...not that 'D'

Quote:
It kinda reaches out and grabs you kinda like Dolly Parton's....er...ah....endowments.
Yep Rog......Cabin Feaver

SPK
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Old 02-25-2004, 09:10 AM   #25
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1978 28' Argosy 28
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Quote:
Originally posted by chuck
I guess the solar does act as an "awning" of sorts, and gives added privacy. decisions, decisions....
If you go clear then add a few snaps to hold a made to fit peice of awning fabric over it. If you want shade you just attach
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Old 03-20-2004, 03:20 PM   #26
5 rivets, 1 loose screw
 
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1966 20' Globetrotter
Saginaw County , Michigan
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Have you started the project, SPK?

I'm asking because my cracked plastic is now shattered, thanks to a high cross wind, but the frame is undamaged.
I took the trailer to my local glass shop said but they said they can't install lexan or anything similar because of the flimsy construction and contour of the frame.
Since a new rockguard isn't within my budget anytime soon, it seems my only option is to remove the frame and patch the holes.
Did the folks at Trent Glass see the frame before they said they could install the panel? If they are sure it can be done, I'll keep looking for someone in my area who might do it.

Thanks,
Rog
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Old 03-20-2004, 05:10 PM   #27
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Hi Rog;
No not yet - still too cold for us to work outside! We just had another snow storm that dumped another 2.5 inches - looks like our winter is never going to end this year.

Peter will have to be real careful to drill out the rivets when it comes time to removing the stoneguard - so he needs a nice warm day!

However I did send our Trent Glass guy the e-mail photo of the closeup of the frame. His take on it was quite different from your guy - as the lexan is fairly flexible he said he can work with it much better. Trent Glass are into custom window frames and work extensively with the aluminum frames etc. they are acustom to using rivets too - so maybe that is the issue with your guy - maybe they don't want to be responsible for breaking the frame. Trent Glass would replace the lexan if they cut it wrong or break it - so that is why we will get them to do all.

You could get your guy to cut the lexan exact to size and then you install it yourself. My guy gave the option of "do all" as little as we want. I would suggest getting a few scraps and do a bit of testing for your own piece of mind.

As soon as we make a move on any refirb we will certainly post any success or failiures we experience - the least we could for all the great help and advice we have received!

Just need one day above 45 and Peter will be honkering down - he can't wait - and I think it is driving him nuts - thinking about everything he wants to do.

SPK

PS Sorry to hear about that wind - there should be a way to rivet extra tie loops - like the small yacht style to a mini cleat - with some thin blue and white line - very nautical...
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Old 03-20-2004, 06:32 PM   #28
5 rivets, 1 loose screw
 
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Thanks SPK. One other concern by my "glass guy" was that a flush panel doesn't look like it would clear the support arms underneath. That may be why the original panel was bubble rather than flat. I'll take a closer look at that before I try anything else.
By the way, the wind got in through the cracks in the plastic. The 2 spring clips at the bottom held the frame in place.

Rog
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Old 03-20-2004, 07:52 PM   #29
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Hi Rog
Quote:
that a flush panel doesn't look like it would clear the support arms underneath.
I too thought that might be a problem - but thought Peter could fandangle a rubber stopper - very similar to what they use on boats with a walk through windshield. They come in different sizes. It is possible to even attach them to the arms if need be. But we will see when we get around to it.

SPK
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Old 03-21-2004, 05:30 PM   #30
5 rivets, 1 loose screw
 
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1966 20' Globetrotter
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Visually checked it earlier today. The support arms extend about 1" beyond the closed frame, thus not allowing a flush mounted panel. I'm unclear as to what you mean by a rubber stopper, SPK, but I see no way of mounting a flush panel over the existing arms.
Looks like I'll be removing the frame and filling the rivet holes with "pookey" for now.

Rog
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Old 08-31-2006, 09:49 PM   #31
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1976 25' Tradewind
Seattle , Washington
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Hi ya'll!
I was wondering if anyone has instructions or pics on how to install from scratch? Andy at inland rv hooked me up a guard but I have the basic idea from pics of already installed ones but, I'm concerned about the lock mounts down below I'm not so sure of which direction to place them?
Thanks,
Rick
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